I'm shocked by this Shocker... (de-domed now, more info)

I could be wrong but it looks like the pictures posted in the previous page are 20mm noctigons.

Oh - Yes, always used 20's, and yes - stocks are 16's. My last 2 were mods of mods, so, I de-domed existing ones on SinkPAD's, but my last full mods I've been using Noctigon's. Really dunno bout any differences, but possibly the SinkPAD's do very little, slightly better. OF course my favorite tint to de-dome is a 1A. The 1C's come out too yellow. 0D would be better, but not worth dropping from a U2 to T6 bin just to get a 0D tint.

Now I'm been tweaking the super shocker mod all along. With the IOS driver, back and forth with 22 gauge vs 20 gauge wires, and whether to use the thermal pad the driver comes with, or pot it with Fujik epoxy... Someone posted interesting info bout pads and potting, that they are pretty ineffective unless connected to a heat sink in close proximity. So, I'm thinking it may not be doing much, but hope it doesn't make it worse...

I just pulled the trigger on a Shocker. I sold or am selling some other lights to pay for this thing but I just couldn’t resist. I don’t know how much I’ll actually end up using it since it’s so big but I had to try my hand at modding this thing. I have a good blueprint right here in this thread. Not looking to do anything as innovative as Linus :slight_smile:

Recently did a couple of super Shocker mods to Shockers I previously modded, before I knew what I know now, or thought I knew, and might know better now... You know what I mean, or used to mean...

I had one major problem with my reflector modding:

Took it a little too far, so now I'm doing it differently. Bought this kit from FT:

Not so aggressive on the cuts near the LED holes now -- worked out well. Then de-domed the emitters:

Picture light provided by a XM-L2 U2 1A:

Picture light provided by a XM-L2 T3 6A1:

Cleaned up and mounted using AS5:

Some other stuff used:

Thanks for the tips! I’ve got the same sort of bits and am even using the same harbor freight rotary tool. Those type of bits work well on aluminum because they don’t load up easily.

Offtopic: How do you like that rotary tool?

It’s been pretty good for me so far. A good value. I’ve had some of the cheaper genuine Dremel models in the past and IMO this is on par. As with anything harbor freight, wait until it goes on sale and then stack your 25% off coupon on top of the sale price. The cheaper rotary tool from harbor freight is a piece of junk.

Nice tip Tom E. I bought and received that same set, but have not tried it yet. Nice work on that reflector. You're much braver than me. I've really avoid reflector modding ever since grinding a couple holes in a HD2010 reflector.

This one right? $25 shipped after coupon… hmm.

Yep. I think I paid like $16 for mine (in store). Sometimes the sales are better than others.

That’s a good looking mod and light you have there…who is the lucky owner?

- ok, you got me... It's yours...

Yes, looking real good. Went smooth for the most part, once I got the ball rolling...

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I love my "dremel" from HF! I do a ton with it, usually more good than damage... For the FT set of tips, a whole lot cheaper than the official dremel tips, and like the variety. I only used one so far but it held up well on 2 Shockers.

Check in!! I’m late to the Super Shocker party but I have just built one for myself!! :bigsmile:

A BTU party is a fun one too!

Ain’t no party like a BTU party cause at a BTU party you leave blind. 8)

Imagine the ceiling spotlights at the party are Shockers. J)

Well I have to thanks Tom E and many other members in BLF for giving me advices on building this dedomed Shocker. I was so afraid to make any mistake as the host ain’t cheap, so I did spam a lot of PMs to Tom for help. I have already owned a stock Shocker more than 6 months ago but this one… just got it done in last night!

Dedomed XM-L2 U2 1A on Noctigon, 22AWG wires everywhere, DRY driver, copper braided batteries carrier…

Tom E is the DJ! 8)

EDIT: No good cells with me now so no measurements yet at the moment, sorry folks.

Figured this would be as good of place as any to post this.

I just replaced the LEDs in my Shocker and I'm really amazed how you can put up with modding them Tom E. This thing is a pain to work on. It's "done", but I still think the reflectors need to sit deeper. I'll have to take more material away from the underside of the reflector. I actually cut the corners on the MCPCB down to the copper so the button top bolts sit down rather low. My dedomes are pretty bad though. Did the gasoline trick, then scraped away at the silicone around the emitter, not realizing right away that there is a 3rd bond wire on the side. They all seem to still be intact though, phew. Used some LED Seal and the coating isn't very even. Maybe I should have applied more than one coat. Using the stock BTU driver still, so that will be the next thing to be replaced.

100% agreed, NO torque whatsoever! Either a light touch to keep up the RPM’s or it bogs down BAAAAAAAD!

I think I might snag that red one vs the little $6 rotary tool from HF that I have…just doesn’t “cut” it :smiley:

Oh and I thought I would just throw this in because :stuck_out_tongue:

JonnyC, I think putting bolts in there is not a great idea as they would make contact with the reflector, causing the reflector not being able to sit down lower.

From your last picture the light appears to be whitish, is that what it is or it is just the camera setting? Because a dedomed LED should have yellowish (neutral) tint.

It's a lot warmer than it looks - that photo was just taken with my phone.

Actually, the bolts sit about as high as the solder connections, which I filed down. Either way you need to take material off of the reflector to get it to sit down far enough.