I'm shocked by this Shocker... (de-domed now, more info)

It’s been pretty good for me so far. A good value. I’ve had some of the cheaper genuine Dremel models in the past and IMO this is on par. As with anything harbor freight, wait until it goes on sale and then stack your 25% off coupon on top of the sale price. The cheaper rotary tool from harbor freight is a piece of junk.

Nice tip Tom E. I bought and received that same set, but have not tried it yet. Nice work on that reflector. You're much braver than me. I've really avoid reflector modding ever since grinding a couple holes in a HD2010 reflector.

This one right? $25 shipped after coupon… hmm.

Yep. I think I paid like $16 for mine (in store). Sometimes the sales are better than others.

That’s a good looking mod and light you have there…who is the lucky owner?

- ok, you got me... It's yours...

Yes, looking real good. Went smooth for the most part, once I got the ball rolling...

------------------------------------------

I love my "dremel" from HF! I do a ton with it, usually more good than damage... For the FT set of tips, a whole lot cheaper than the official dremel tips, and like the variety. I only used one so far but it held up well on 2 Shockers.

Check in!! I’m late to the Super Shocker party but I have just built one for myself!! :bigsmile:

A BTU party is a fun one too!

Ain’t no party like a BTU party cause at a BTU party you leave blind. 8)

Imagine the ceiling spotlights at the party are Shockers. J)

Well I have to thanks Tom E and many other members in BLF for giving me advices on building this dedomed Shocker. I was so afraid to make any mistake as the host ain’t cheap, so I did spam a lot of PMs to Tom for help. I have already owned a stock Shocker more than 6 months ago but this one… just got it done in last night!

Dedomed XM-L2 U2 1A on Noctigon, 22AWG wires everywhere, DRY driver, copper braided batteries carrier…

Tom E is the DJ! 8)

EDIT: No good cells with me now so no measurements yet at the moment, sorry folks.

Figured this would be as good of place as any to post this.

I just replaced the LEDs in my Shocker and I'm really amazed how you can put up with modding them Tom E. This thing is a pain to work on. It's "done", but I still think the reflectors need to sit deeper. I'll have to take more material away from the underside of the reflector. I actually cut the corners on the MCPCB down to the copper so the button top bolts sit down rather low. My dedomes are pretty bad though. Did the gasoline trick, then scraped away at the silicone around the emitter, not realizing right away that there is a 3rd bond wire on the side. They all seem to still be intact though, phew. Used some LED Seal and the coating isn't very even. Maybe I should have applied more than one coat. Using the stock BTU driver still, so that will be the next thing to be replaced.

100% agreed, NO torque whatsoever! Either a light touch to keep up the RPM’s or it bogs down BAAAAAAAD!

I think I might snag that red one vs the little $6 rotary tool from HF that I have…just doesn’t “cut” it :smiley:

Oh and I thought I would just throw this in because :stuck_out_tongue:

JonnyC, I think putting bolts in there is not a great idea as they would make contact with the reflector, causing the reflector not being able to sit down lower.

From your last picture the light appears to be whitish, is that what it is or it is just the camera setting? Because a dedomed LED should have yellowish (neutral) tint.

It's a lot warmer than it looks - that photo was just taken with my phone.

Actually, the bolts sit about as high as the solder connections, which I filed down. Either way you need to take material off of the reflector to get it to sit down far enough.

Those solder connections still look like they could be flattened out quite a bit. Lately I've been using a hot iron, some flux, and a flat blade screw driver to get them extremely flat. Take the iron and heat the fluxed joint until it's hot (silicone wire makes this MUCH easier!) then quickly follow up with your screwdriver to flatten it out. With the flux and hot iron the wires will flatten out over the pad fairly easily. You can then take a sharp blade and trim the insulation on the top of the wire (the silicone downside) so it is much thinner. I generally trim it to the wire, or close to the wire, then use an insulating gasket. Those bolt heads look like it would take a lot of extra clearance to get the reflector flat.

I have modded one Shocker and I got the solder joint down real flat and the reflector was able to sit in deep enough just as stock. I did not remove any material from the reflector.

By the way what gauge of wires did you use? I use 22AWG and they are thin enough to allow the reflector sit down more while still able to deliver 5.5A to each LED. The LED and reflector positioning part can be tricky, I cannot be assured that I will do this right for the second time though.

I should have gone with 22 awg, but I used 20 awg silicone (which is a bit thicker).

I admit I didn’t read all the replies, but I chose not to because I want to give my own opinion before I’m skewed by those who are probably more experienced/biased, but I as a flashlight guy who’s been doing this stuff for a few years have come to the realisation that the “wow” factor wears off very quickly when the limitations and cost and other caveats come into play.

I like lights that work every time, for a long time, and provide a long term impression of the thought and foresight that went into their creation.

A big bang followed by a big frustration is fun for those of us that are always learning. Not so fun for everyone else.

Hope that makes sense.

This thread makes me want a shocker. Just don’t know if I want to make that jump to a multicell series light yet…

That 3rd wire is meaningless - it can be removed. It's been posted about - think EMI related or something? I've never used any LED coating on de-domes and never had a problem - several lights for months now and I don't care for losing output and throw because all coatings WILL cause loss's, and not sure it really protects the LED surface from anything. Also, I haven't found it necessary to screw down the MCPCB's, but in theory it should help in heat sinking, but I'd be concerned of not getting the positioning right because you are very committed to getting the position perfect -- maybe beyond my ability...

I'm thinking you went down the more difficult path on this mod, but the screws could help, but for me would be hard/risky.