AFAIK, the L2r hasn’t been available retail for a couple of years. I have one and like it, but I’d guess they go for a pretty penny, but maybe not. There is a current thread here about a Klarus 2xaa for about $23, if I’m not mistaken…I’d take that light any day.
I would still take the Klarus. The L2r on the website is just an L2 with an extender. The original L2r was a skinny beast designed for only 2xaa. The problem with it is that most P60’s aren’t going to work well on 2xaa. In any case, I’d take the Klarus…ymmv.
See my thread here on a 2x-AA sized P60 I built up for a friend, using a 501c host. I've got the parts list including the driver I used to assemble the drop-in. It's worked out really well, is a decent brightness, and low modes make for great runtime...
I’d opt for the Klarus too. Low voltage P60 drop-ins aren’t very efficient. Output and runtimes won’t come close to the Klarus. And the Klarus is less expensive.
Hello everyone, I’m Tango. I’m preparing to start rebuilding a SureFire C2 as a form of physical therapy and happened across the Solarforce’s website. My query for those who might be better versed with Solarforce bezels is this, will the Solarforce T2 head with LED properly mount and thread on the SureFire C2 host body? Also, I see that they claim their S8 tail switch will work on the 6P, 9P & C2, is this correct? Thanks in advance for any assistance that the forum can offer.
Hello everyone, I’m Tango. I’m preparing to start rebuilding a SureFire C2 as a form of physical therapy and happened across the Solarforce’s website. My query for those who might be better versed with Solarforce bezels is this, will the Solarforce T2 head with LED properly mount and thread on the SureFire C2 host body? Also, I see that they claim their S8 tail switch will work on the 6P, 9P & C2, is this correct? Thanks in advance for any assistance that the forum can offer.
Don’t have either, let alone both, so can’t quite say.
But even if by chance thread pitch is identical, I’d be careful because some are triangular-cut, square-cut, even trapezoidal-cut. They might “fit but be snug”, in which case be really careful snugging them up.
Thanks for the advise, I was not aware of this. I’m already found a few things that I’ll be using for this rebuild already but I’m in no hurry, just planning and taking my time on it.
Yeah, even with the same mfr, standards change. Eg, ignoring anodisation, some battery tubes are reversible (vs flipping the clip) and others aren’t. Some have different threads in front vs in back. Etc.
I’ve only got L2Ms, and frankly haven’t even tried flipping the tube.
Mixing Solarforce vs Surefire… dunno, but wouldn’t place any bets.
Yes, pretty much all the SureFire line are great lights though they are not all that cheap but you get what you pay for. LOL I’ve been a diehard SureFire carrier ever since the early 90’s and it wasn’t till recently that I started to look into rebuilding a C2. I could easily just through a drop-in in the light and be done but I’m looking to tweak the tail switch, upgrade the lens, give it a space-age look as well as boost its output and maximize its battery life and add a strike bezel.
any Solarforce host with a c123 extender does 2aa, just need to put some o-rings on the batteries to stop them rattling around inside, I’ve got an l2p with the extender and a low voltage neutral xp-g2 with 2aa nimh that works well for occasional use by the back door.
It might be worth checking out LumensFactory. https://www.lumensfactory.com/en/index.php
I have been happy with their parts and they make some of the parts you mentioned, crenellated bezel, lens, switches, etc. Their clips look nice too. Hope that helps.
I have a C2 and L2M. The head and tail caps are interchangeable.
The solarforce parts have more variability in the threads and occasionally don’t thread smoothly on the Surefire bodies.
The biggest variability is in the head where the light engine goes. The Surefire is a little smaller, often requiring the outer large spring to need removal.
The Solarforce head often requires this spring.
It might be worth checking out LumensFactory. https://www.lumensfactory.com/en/index.php
I have been happy with their parts and they make some of the parts you mentioned, crenellated bezel, lens, switches, etc. Their clips look nice too. Hope that helps.
I’ve checked out Lumen Factory and there are a few parts that I intend to acquire for this project light. I’m not really interested in clips on the light being that I’ve never used that feature on any on my SureFire lights before. Thank you for the recommendation of Lumen Factory though, they do seem to be one of the top maker of parts.
I have a C2 and L2M. The head and tail caps are interchangeable.
The solarforce parts have more variability in the threads and occasionally don’t thread smoothly on the Surefire bodies.
The biggest variability is in the head where the light engine goes. The Surefire is a little smaller, often requiring the outer large spring to need removal.
The Solarforce head often requires this spring.
Have fun mixing and matching!
FB
Thank you for answering that side of the query in reference to the L2 to C2 switch, from their wording I thought it might but just needed to check as they also mentioned L2 which as it turns out is a model of SureFire light as well. LOL
Does anyone have knowledge about the T1 or T2 head fitting the SureFire C2 body?
It might be worth checking out LumensFactory. https://www.lumensfactory.com/en/index.php
I have been happy with their parts and they make some of the parts you mentioned, crenellated bezel, lens, switches, etc. Their clips look nice too. Hope that helps.
I’ve checked out Lumen Factory and there are a few parts that I intend to acquire for this project light. I’m not really interested in clips on the light being that I’ve never used that feature on any on my SureFire lights before. Thank you for the recommendation of Lumen Factory though, they do seem to be one of the top maker of parts.
Quite welcome. Glad I could help. My Father has a C3 but I don’t have a T1 or T2 to check it with. I’m not knowledgeable enough to make an informed guess either.
It might be worth checking out LumensFactory. https://www.lumensfactory.com/en/index.php
I have been happy with their parts and they make some of the parts you mentioned, crenellated bezel, lens, switches, etc. Their clips look nice too. Hope that helps.
I’ve checked out Lumen Factory and there are a few parts that I intend to acquire for this project light. I’m not really interested in clips on the light being that I’ve never used that feature on any on my SureFire lights before. Thank you for the recommendation of Lumen Factory though, they do seem to be one of the top maker of parts.
Quite welcome. Glad I could help. My Father has a C3 but I don’t have a T1 or T2 to check it with. I’m not knowledgeable enough to make an informed guess either.
No problem, it doesn’t seem like anyone has a Solarforce T1 or T2 light. I’m simply guess based on the product size that one might be for a 1 cell and the other for 2 cell. They both look to be the same diameter though but whether or not either would work is the big question. I do known that the T2 has a power level rotatable head based upon the photos.
Solarforce made some interesting lights, the Z1 and Z2 were nice little xpg/2 pocket rockets off either 1AA or 1CR123. I can also confirm the L2M with extender works very well with 2AA. I currently have a M31W loaded in one along with a sanded down piece of sprinkle pipe for a battery shim. As for tailcaps interchanging I don’t believe most Surefire and Solarforce tailcaps interchange- IIRC the Solarforce requires more threads than Surefire. I believe its similar with the bezels though they can work with a pill shim.
Lumens Factory makes some good stuff! I currently run a Seraph SP-6 with a M361W as well as a SP-9 with the 4xCR123 extender and a D36 XHP head. Very well made hosts. The D36 doesn’t feel overly well built- too light for potting. But they claim their D26/P60 drop ins are “milspec.” The Seraph line of hosts is very nice with quality anodizing, double o-rings and a good quality clicky which can be upgraded to a McClicky if needed. They also have a SF style momentary tailcap if thats your thing. My only gripe is the switch is too recessed making it a little difficulty in a typical “ice pick” grip, though to be fair they do advertise being designed for a cigar grip (which works very well with the double grip rings). A little bit non-traditional in styling but very rugged and functional.
To get to the zombie thread question, I believe a Solarforce head could work for you but you will likely need to use a spring on the outside of the pill as well as possibly a o-ring shim between the front of the head and the drop-in. If I remember I will take out some parts tonight and check.
AFAIK, the L2r hasn’t been available retail for a couple of years. I have one and like it, but I’d guess they go for a pretty penny, but maybe not. There is a current thread here about a Klarus 2xaa for about $23, if I’m not mistaken…I’d take that light any day.
EDIT: here’s the link to the Klarus thread http://budgetlightforum.com/node/25886
Dave
i will check out the klarus thanks.
the L2R is avail at moment on solarforce website, $15.99 for body; does this change your mind regarding klarus?
I would still take the Klarus. The L2r on the website is just an L2 with an extender. The original L2r was a skinny beast designed for only 2xaa. The problem with it is that most P60’s aren’t going to work well on 2xaa. In any case, I’d take the Klarus…ymmv.
EDIT: I should add that I also have a Klarus 2xaa
Dave
See my thread here on a 2x-AA sized P60 I built up for a friend, using a 501c host. I've got the parts list including the driver I used to assemble the drop-in. It's worked out really well, is a decent brightness, and low modes make for great runtime...
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/24316
Keepin’ the “B” in BLF
I’d opt for the Klarus too. Low voltage P60 drop-ins aren’t very efficient. Output and runtimes won’t come close to the Klarus. And the Klarus is less expensive.
I bought my Mum a Klarus and it’s very good. (I have another li-ion Klarus also).
If you want a 2aa p60 then just convert a Mini Maglite.
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As a fan of Solarforce I second all the comments above, go for the Klarus.
Or take a look at Shiningbeam.com and their 2*AA models, like ‘Caveman’ or ‘Spark’, I don’t know if they’ll fit your budget though.
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I have an L2R with a Malkoff M31 using 2-AA cells. Very good performer.
I need to amend my earlier statement.
Low voltage P60 drop-ins (that don’t cost $69+) aren’t very efficient.
Awww. Come on now and treat yourself to something special.
I love my T2…. check out my review, it’s stickied here. Its been a great light to me so far
Hello everyone, I’m Tango. I’m preparing to start rebuilding a SureFire C2 as a form of physical therapy and happened across the Solarforce’s website. My query for those who might be better versed with Solarforce bezels is this, will the Solarforce T2 head with LED properly mount and thread on the SureFire C2 host body? Also, I see that they claim their S8 tail switch will work on the 6P, 9P & C2, is this correct? Thanks in advance for any assistance that the forum can offer.
Tango Down
I would really recommend this light, it is fantastic. I did steal a driver from one and put it in a p60 as well… for my old L2r.
Jaxman M2
EDC rotation:
FW1A, LH351D 4000k (second favorite)
FW3A, LH351D 3500k
FW3A, SST20 FD2 4000k
FW3A, Nichia 4000k sw40 r9080 (favorite light!)
FW3A, Cree XP-L Hi 5A3
Emisar D4V2, SST20 4000k
S2+, XM-L2 T6 4C
Don’t have either, let alone both, so can’t quite say.
But even if by chance thread pitch is identical, I’d be careful because some are triangular-cut, square-cut, even trapezoidal-cut. They might “fit but be snug”, in which case be really careful snugging them up.
09 F9 11 02 9D 74 E3 5B D8 41 56 C5 63 56 88 C0
Thanks for the advise, I was not aware of this. I’m already found a few things that I’ll be using for this rebuild already but I’m in no hurry, just planning and taking my time on it.
Tango Down
Yeah, even with the same mfr, standards change. Eg, ignoring anodisation, some battery tubes are reversible (vs flipping the clip) and others aren’t. Some have different threads in front vs in back. Etc.
I’ve only got L2Ms, and frankly haven’t even tried flipping the tube.
Mixing Solarforce vs Surefire… dunno, but wouldn’t place any bets.
09 F9 11 02 9D 74 E3 5B D8 41 56 C5 63 56 88 C0
Yes, pretty much all the SureFire line are great lights though they are not all that cheap but you get what you pay for. LOL I’ve been a diehard SureFire carrier ever since the early 90’s and it wasn’t till recently that I started to look into rebuilding a C2. I could easily just through a drop-in in the light and be done but I’m looking to tweak the tail switch, upgrade the lens, give it a space-age look as well as boost its output and maximize its battery life and add a strike bezel.
Tango Down
I know that a few Solarforce items will work on the 6P, 9P, Z2 & C2 host bodies.
Tango Down
any Solarforce host with a c123 extender does 2aa, just need to put some o-rings on the batteries to stop them rattling around inside, I’ve got an l2p with the extender and a low voltage neutral xp-g2 with 2aa nimh that works well for occasional use by the back door.
It might be worth checking out LumensFactory. https://www.lumensfactory.com/en/index.php
I have been happy with their parts and they make some of the parts you mentioned, crenellated bezel, lens, switches, etc. Their clips look nice too. Hope that helps.
I have a C2 and L2M. The head and tail caps are interchangeable.
The solarforce parts have more variability in the threads and occasionally don’t thread smoothly on the Surefire bodies.
The biggest variability is in the head where the light engine goes. The Surefire is a little smaller, often requiring the outer large spring to need removal.
The Solarforce head often requires this spring.
Have fun mixing and matching!
FB
I’ve checked out Lumen Factory and there are a few parts that I intend to acquire for this project light. I’m not really interested in clips on the light being that I’ve never used that feature on any on my SureFire lights before. Thank you for the recommendation of Lumen Factory though, they do seem to be one of the top maker of parts.
Tango Down
Thank you for answering that side of the query in reference to the L2 to C2 switch, from their wording I thought it might but just needed to check as they also mentioned L2 which as it turns out is a model of SureFire light as well. LOL
Does anyone have knowledge about the T1 or T2 head fitting the SureFire C2 body?
Tango Down
Quite welcome. Glad I could help. My Father has a C3 but I don’t have a T1 or T2 to check it with. I’m not knowledgeable enough to make an informed guess either.
No problem, it doesn’t seem like anyone has a Solarforce T1 or T2 light. I’m simply guess based on the product size that one might be for a 1 cell and the other for 2 cell. They both look to be the same diameter though but whether or not either would work is the big question. I do known that the T2 has a power level rotatable head based upon the photos.
Tango Down
A few thoughts…
Solarforce made some interesting lights, the Z1 and Z2 were nice little xpg/2 pocket rockets off either 1AA or 1CR123. I can also confirm the L2M with extender works very well with 2AA. I currently have a M31W loaded in one along with a sanded down piece of sprinkle pipe for a battery shim. As for tailcaps interchanging I don’t believe most Surefire and Solarforce tailcaps interchange- IIRC the Solarforce requires more threads than Surefire. I believe its similar with the bezels though they can work with a pill shim.
Lumens Factory makes some good stuff! I currently run a Seraph SP-6 with a M361W as well as a SP-9 with the 4xCR123 extender and a D36 XHP head. Very well made hosts. The D36 doesn’t feel overly well built- too light for potting. But they claim their D26/P60 drop ins are “milspec.” The Seraph line of hosts is very nice with quality anodizing, double o-rings and a good quality clicky which can be upgraded to a McClicky if needed. They also have a SF style momentary tailcap if thats your thing. My only gripe is the switch is too recessed making it a little difficulty in a typical “ice pick” grip, though to be fair they do advertise being designed for a cigar grip (which works very well with the double grip rings). A little bit non-traditional in styling but very rugged and functional.
To get to the zombie thread question, I believe a Solarforce head could work for you but you will likely need to use a spring on the outside of the pill as well as possibly a o-ring shim between the front of the head and the drop-in. If I remember I will take out some parts tonight and check.