What’s the best way to ensure ground between the copper pill and ground ring on the driver? I’ve not had much luck soldering between the large copper pill and that narrow brass trace on the driver. Is there an easy way to do that to ensure a good solid ground? I’m actually thinking about getting a drill bit and tap to put a screw into that wide lip, use a piece of brass to clamp the driver down with it. Would that work?
Here’s a method I sometimes use on P60s.
I don’t have as much experience as many of you here, but I’ve had good luck using 60/40 vs. 63/37 solder and turning the temperature down a bit on my iron after adhering the initial solder to the star and outer ring. It seems like the 60/40 is easier to form bridges with; I’m assuming that it’s because of the increased plasticity range vs. 63/37 eutectic but you know what they say about assumptions! 
This was done with 60/40 solder (don’t mind the extra flux):
The joint may not be ideal (perhaps a bit cold) but it seems to be stuck on there well and it’s not a high current joint anyways.
I just realized that I misread your question when I posted earlier. I have also used a little bit of solder wick to fill that gap when needed, although usually if it’s just a hairline gap 60/40 and a little work usually get it done for me. In my very limited experience I’ve found that 63/37 is much harder to bridge gaps with.
Can you get the driver without low voltage warning/shut-off for use in non-Li-ion lights?
Ordered some 20Rs, gotta see how they compare to the 4.3v 28As...
All it takes is removing the resistor at R2 (marked '4701'). Since RMM offers an add/remove 7135s service I think that would be well within his capabilities. :)
Not at the moment, but I know that the program can be altered to remove this function. Is there much demand for this? I know that lifepo users might find this handy, I guess that it might also be useful to drain the last bit of juice out of NiMh and Alkaline batteries.
Just remove R2 to disable it, nothing in the FW needs to be changed. Without R2 to provide the drain to ground the MCU will always think the voltage is above the low voltage trigger point.
Thanks comfychair! Here I was thinking about reprogramming individual drivers when the solution was this simple! 
Thanks, that should be very doable. Even easier than a resistor mod to eliminate next mode memory.
Received my batteries today, thanks for the quick shipping.
Russ
Efest 10440, nice.
Would you have prices for them yet?
Easy…wrap them in foil. Device? Expandable tin-foil hat. :party:
I can give you a ballpark figure: around $3.50 each (without any shipping costs added). I think that I am going to go to an actual shipping cost system in the near future, which will be more advantageous to those looking to buy just a few different cell types in the same order.
Received my package today, Thanks!
The 20R’s and drivers were packaged nicely, no problems what so ever. Really appreciate it and already have a driver stacked and installed. 
Take 5% off of your total order! From now until 11:59 p.m. EST 11/11/2013.
No coupons or codes needed.
Nice deal!
Question... do you know at what point the protection circuit would trip on the 18650PF Protected batteries? The usual 5A?
That’s a good question. My SRK pulls over 7.5 amps from four cells. Let me get a PF charged up and I’ll see whether it trips and if not what current it allows.
Thanks for checking!