Homemade P-60 Drop-in XML 1A vs 1D

When the lady in your life watches the purse-strings, self-sufficient hobbies are a good thing.

You're right about the costs and availability of DIY parts. I was looking at an emitter on a small board, and after shipping (from germany, in this case) it's 2/3rds as much as a complete chinese light of similar specs

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You are right that did not come out right it just seams like everything revolves around maximum lumens lately. I have a couple XPG R4 3Ds I am going to play around with, not everyone likes the same thing and for your use in fog and snow the XPG is a better option hands down.

I share the same opinion as BobK on this one....the xp-g R4 3D tint is currently my favorite emitter....(Sorry xm-l... You're a close second though!)

A 5000k XML would be my emitter of choice. Ufortunatly these are rather hard to find and expensive. :/

like this one? http://www.cutter.com.au/proddetail.php?prod=cut1125&cat=88 ;)

Looks like they're back in stock - they were out... and cutter wants $15 shipping, making that a very, very expensive led, given as you can get them for $7 with free shipping for 6000k... they really are hard to find!

--Bushytails

but they had (have?) free shipping on orders >99usd, so making a small group buy isn't that hard to make -I made one with my friend and we have two orders each over 100usd just for leds and optics

I am going to jump on the wagon with you guys. In the top photo there is a XP-G R4 3D in the middle I just built a drop in with a 1.4 amp Nanjg driver and the 3D emitter and all i can say is wow. It is really strange how it can change your perception of what light is supposed to look like. I am totally sold on the 3D were the 1D made the 1A look blue the 3D does the same to the 1D amazing. I am going to order a couple more of the 3Ds so nice.

I'll be jumping on doing this when neutral XML's on stars are more budget friendly.

@D.I.C.K.: What do you currently use to prevent the reflector from shorting?

I currently use 2 different types of emitter isolation discs I source from KD it depends on the drop in. One is a thick paper with adhesive sticker on the back and the other is a thick plastic with adhesive. I always Fujik over the solder points so the isolation discs are unnecessary but they clean up the look and add an extra layer of protection. The link to the KD part number is in the first post.

D.I.C.K.

Mentioned link gives me an error, thats why I asked. :)

Holy thread revival I didn't realize this was the old thread. Give me a minute I will post the new KD part number.

Is there a newer? If so, I didnt find it..

No hurry, but thanks. :D

I can't find it on the new KD I go back to the old KD it's there but the new KD does not show it. They must have discontinued it, sorry. I have to find a way to order more, so I will have to figure this out.

http://kaidomain.com/product/details.S003320

http://kaidomain.com/product/details.S002875

Something like that?

Yes perfect the one dollar plastic thin ones work great you can doubke them up if you need to one on the reflector and one over the emitter. The hardened teflon ones can be problematic when trying to focus your reflector because they are so thick so I usually avoid them but they can be useful.

Alright. Do you have any experience in mixing different AMCs? Like 4 380s and 1 350?

Nope, I have a decent stock of the 350s and since the new board with the 380s has a different micro controller that is not compatible with my programmer I won't be using them until Tido or someone else figures out a way to reprogram the new boards, sorry.

http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Cree-Inc/XMLAWT-00-0000-0000T6053/?qs=D3QG1iK7FqjQo2CUn%252bWiImdOGYyXm8ye%2FmqWnMCq920%3D I’ve been look a lot but you can find them if you don’t mind putting them on a star yourself. It claims to be a 5000k though I have not ordered one myself.