Cheers for the thoughts.
Tried with the reflector off when I was checking to see if voltage was getting to the LEDs and nothing.
Seller wants me to return cap and head - I’ve pointed out it should be the driver at fault and would prefer just to return that.
Also, I tried ordering a replacement from Kaidomain and their checkout says:
>>Checkout was unsuccessful. Please try again or contact us for assistance.
Account is restricted<<
I’ve clicked the veryify email and signed in - anything else I’m missing?
using unprotected li ion battery on series is very dangerous isn’t?like having a grenade that ready to blow?sorry if i was wrong 
Especially on something that might have a short, I suspect!
Kaidomain sent an email saying their payment system was working again.
I’ve found a UK supplier of another one and because I’m foolish, bought that (I’m a tad broke at the moment, this may be why!) - I did have plans to use these with a diffuser for ebay pictures in my unit with no power, so would need two anyway (I keep telling myself 
).
So will probably just send cap and head back as requested.
Back on this.
Unfortunately was very busy time at the time, so it never got sent back.
Think I’ll just try and fix it up and get the mods described in the review thread done at the same time.
I’ve now got a better multimeter (not amazing, just a Vichy VC99).
This does show the larger capacitor as about correct, but the smaller one as not working.
I don’t know if it’s happened since, but the larger capacitor has actually had one leg come off the circuit board - possible it was just that.
Am I the only one that sees the driver is completely blown out and burned where the caps & toriod are soldered to the board? See the big black craters? I know this is an old post but you need a new driver lol.
I think that’s just the solder blobs that look a bit dark because of shadowy lighting and lots of flux residue. The only possible problem I see is the negative (upper) lead of the right most capacitor looks like it is not soldered properly to the board.
Yea- you’re spot on with that.
Since found that’s the case with the loose one, but hadn’t noticed when I took the picture - though the smaller capacitor doesn’t seem to be working properly too.
Unfortunately a) I’m not that great with fiddly soldering and b) not sure where my soldering stuff is.
I did try doing reattaching by heating up a screw and using that, but not surprisingly, that didn’t work (almost did).
Caretaker bloke at my work units offered to lend me his soldering iron - the tip of which was a ground cold chisel with a 5mm square flat end or so!
Got a couple of other things that could do with somework, so might see if I can find someone local that can do it for a not-silly amount.
(Anyone in West Yorks, UK fancy earning some beer money? )
Maybe you can buy/order a small butan soldering lighter. I was once on holiday and needed to solder something, so I bought one. It is a jet flame lighter, you can screw a metal soldering tip on.
Heats up quickly and has a fine tip…was cheap too
I’ve got a bit knackered one of those SOMEWHERE too.
I’ve got basically most of my life haphazardly thrown in the back of my business unit and haven’t had chance to organise it.
Bit broke and so prefer not to spend money on stuff I’ve already got.
That and my fine soldering is far from amazing - I fear I’ll end up with a driver-sized mush of solder if I try!
Don’t go with Butane its a real pita. Mine will lose its butane charge every few weeks then I have to refill it every time I need it. For the small stuff I use an electric 12 watt Weller soldering iron/pencil.
Where abouts in West Yorkshire are you?
I’m in Keighley.
And yes - my butane one was fine when first got it, but now leaks. Partly why it’s stuck away somewhere. Also, doesn’t turn off (presumably the leak) so I have to blow it out.
I can’t post a picture now but I’m pretty sure you will need a driver. If you see black the board is burned & if you scrape it there you will find a crater under the burned/ black stuff. I know as I have done this. I just finished replacing 11 caps on a software defined radio main board due to this same issue.
My 0.02
Aaron.
That’s what I thought initially, but not so sure now.
Which bits specifically were you thinking looked burnt.
I just got some higher res pics, here:
http://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/18968307/pics/somestuff/torch/driver1.jpg
http://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/18968307/pics/somestuff/torch/driver2.jpg
http://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/18968307/pics/somestuff/torch/driver3.jpg
However, looking at those, think my lighting might be hiding the flux a bit.
Does look like could be some damage there.
Ok scratch that its ok. From the first picture it looked burned up.
Looking at this pic http://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/18968307/pics/somestuff/torch/driver1.jpg
Is that a burnt hole in the large 25v capacitor laying down, near the legs?
Bought a Skyray series light awhile back. It lasted a few months and then one day just quit working. At the time, I just chaulked it up to another crappy Ebay light.
Although it was bright, It also got a bit warm. The light has 3 led’s supposedly 6000lm, and it is able to take 4 18650 batteries. It can run on any number of batteries
from 1 to all 4. Here is name of the light from Ebay “SKYRAY 6000 Lumen 3x CREE XM-L T6 LED Flashlight Torch 18650 Charger 30W Hunting” or add name
I should say. Anyway, I just now got curious enough to open it up and figured the circuit board would be fried/melted ect… . As it turns out, Basically the light got
hot enough to un-solder itself. The +/- wires soldered to the led board (Not the Driver Board) itself came off. Light went to the shed, was re-soldered and now back
working… hopefully for a longer duration this time 
I’ll try and just use 1-3 batteries. although the capacitor might make that a mute idea.
Cons of the light I have: Gets a bit warm and you have to power it down. also the on off switch feels cheap. it you screw it down all the way as to not have it back off
and fall out / get lost, it will not work right. If you get one and you can feel/hear something loose it the head part, The screw that secures the LED board to the CnC
milled shiny part (forgot name) is most likely loose
Pics are below, if they do not work here is a link to the album. SkyRayKing Light - Album on Imgur
Pcourmeir that does not surprise me at all.
that mcpcb the leds are on should be attached to a threaded plate that screws into the body.i dont see it.
thats one of the “turds” that are being passed off as an srk.
no path to the body means it overheats quickly.
its a cheapened clone of several other cheapened clones.
and the t6 bin gives around 1000 lumens at 3a.
i know for a fact that light will self immolate if driven at 9a.
that gives 3000 led lumens.
chinese lumens,chinese mah,ect
btw welcome to blf!
looks like someone got against it with a soldering iron.
odd to see real rubycons in this type of item.but from what little i saw of the bung they might be!