Yup, it’ll probably be unrecognizable here in a couple days! 
What made you get this one over the UF version?
I wanted a black one with XM-L2’s and thought I would try it out. I really had planned on gutting it out anyway.
Thanks for confirming that this version does not have that ring in the beam.
It would be interesting to see what kind of driver this is using and some tailcap amperage draw readings.
When you take it apart please post some pictures with the driver and the insides of this version.
My exact same light is on the way, I hope the driver is mod friendly, i would like to boost the current up a little more.
How do flat top batteries work? Is it a different design then a normal SRK? My Pana NCR18650B’s don’t work at all in my original SRK, I had to solder blob them 
-Jamie M.
Can I have some more information about the low-mode please.
I’ve got an SRK (who knows what version!), and the low mode has a very noticeable PWM - how about this one?
Any comment on the run-time on high?
Thanks
I use Sony unprotected and their positive end is raised up enough to make good contact. The design is the same but the springs are keeping the battery up higher.
I really wouldn’t be the person to ask about PWM I never really notice it unless it’s snowing out and even then I couldn’t tell you if it was “bad” or not. I would assume it’s the same as any of them.
I always wonder when people say that, I can understand not finding it bothersome in general use but a quick wave of the hand through the path of the beam is all it should take to identify obvious PWMing. At least it is for me, if I see strobed images of my hand it’s bad, if it’s smooth as butter it’s good. If I have to work hard and swing my hand very fast to detect any flicker then it’s PWM but at a fast enough Hz that even I don’t really mind it in general use.
The trick is not to follow your hand with your eyes, focus on something in the distance and then flick your hand through the beam. Should be obvious then just like the snow 
Just tried it on a couple lights and I can’t see it, I have do it before with a fan and I can’t see it with them either.
yes, pretty much agree with what Linus wrote.
I see about 20 copies of my finger if I wave across the front of my SRK on low. Which for me is annoying (not to mention scary/dangerous if you’re working on rotating machinery - or car engines)
I have a few other flashlights which presumably control power by PWM - but it’s completely invisible to me.
What I don’t know is if peoples eyes have different thresholds to this sort of thing.
Anyway - any info gratefully received.
STL
Thanks. appreciated. STL
That’s interesting, you must be immune to strobing…any extensive disco/rave experiences in your past? :party:
The fan test can be hit and miss depending on it’s rotational speed and the frequency of the PWM. In the worst case you may not notice anything at all while in the best case scenario it could actually make the fan appear to be completely stopped or spinning at a totally different speed to reality. I find that quite freaky at times.
Digital cameras get really unhappy in the presence of low frequency PWM.
I find the best way to see PWM, aside from a fan, is when walking outdoors. Pan the beam across the grass and defocus your eyes while following the beam, not the grass. A light with PWM will make the grass look like it is digital. It might not make sense until you do it but once you see it you will say "yeah, digital is exactly what it looks like". A light without PWM will leave the grass in the beam spot a blurr.
How about turning on the shower in the dark to detect PWM? That seems always the fool proof way for me. If there’s PWM the lit area of the water is a series of tiny little dots.
It's annoying when you try to take a wall shot, and get nothing but black.
hehe yep 
OK well it’s raining like crazy right now and I can notice PWM on low but not what I would call “bad”. For what that’s worth.
I don’t mind the PWM so much, but I can’t stand PWM whine at all It’s like nails on a chalkboard for me, super painful
-Jamie M.
I received mine from fasttech. I must say I am not very happy with this purchase.
First of all, I needed the new srk body style, like in the pictures presented on fasttech site. I received the old battery tube with the straight lines.
The flashlight also came with defective driver board, the leds were flickering and low output level.
The reflector machining looks horrible(see pic)
After taking the light apart, it looks like the driver board is the single toroidal one(see pic). I managed to repair the driver by resoldering one of the 000 value resistor.
Mod report : After repairing the driver, I made a current draw test. With a single trustfire flame it measured ~4 amps.
I changed the wires with thicker ones and soldered a piece of cooper wire over the 0 value resistors. The flashlight is visibly brighter now and the current draw increased to ~5,3 amps on a single TF flame.
I will test again later with 4cells, because it seems that 5,3 amps is the maximum for 1cell.
