Ordered one - I'm good at adding and stacking 7135's 
. Thanx Ouchy!
You’ll Love that driver Tom. It’s a “chippers” dream.
Sorry for the possibly silly question… so is this basically a SRK, with a handle, and a much more moddable driver?
@ Ouchy,
That 8-legged chip to the left of the 7135s, that’s the chip that has the programming functions in it, correct? It looks identical to the ones on the 105C’s. Hypothetically, if this light does have a high-med only group…could one buy a 105C, unsolder the control chip from that, and install it onto this driver?
Of course one could theoretically just reprogram the chip but I take it that one of those inductive readers/writers is expensive?
As far as hi-med goes. I hope that’s how it is. That’s perfect for me. I rarely use anything else.
I don’t know if you could do a straight swap of the leggy-thingy, I haven’t got that far yet in my learning. It’s probably hard to do without a hot air reflow station.
Talk to Comfychair. I think he told me you can piggyback a 105C and use it to control the modes.
I’d like to know how to do that also. I need good pictorials to truly understand how these things integrate.
Well, my plan would be XM-L2's on copper, heavy wires, and up the amps a plenty with 7135's. It's 4 cells in parallel, so I'm not sure what you can really draw from them. If Ouchy was getting 3.45A to each emitter, that means you are drawing maybe 3A per cell, which is 12A total, maybe more because of loss's. I'm not sure how that's possible in a parallel cell setup, but I've never been in that territory before with parallel cells. I know I'm having troubles getting 4.5A from 3 cells in parallel in a Crelant 7G9, but it's a different animal (Nanjg driver, maybe problems with the host/ground return, etc.). I don't see any easy solution to controlling modes though - I'm just planning on living with it and boosting output, and having a nice carry version of a over-driven SRK.
Scot - thats' exactly as see it, yes. Plus it's a good price.
It’s just another variant of the new wave of 4P 18650 soupcan light. The SRK has never held any appeal for me personally. This light looks to have better thermal management capabilities than an SRK.
…but, I haven’t received mine yet and torn it down.
My Nage triple gave me 3.45 emitter amps. from each of the three 9 chip banks.
My final tail reading with all three emitters on high is 8.55A. I hope the switch holds out OK.
I wonder if you could do a Zener diode mod with this driver?
This looks awesome; it might have to be my first triple emitter.
I’m wondering if the deep polished bezel ring might leave an outer halo
Great, this might be just the light I’m looking for. Thanks for the info, guys.
The 8.55A tail /3 is 2.85A per LED, but, maybe it's drawing 4.2v or so, but providing 3.5v or so per LED, that's why the actual LED amps is higher at 3.45A?
9 chips per LED, if they are 380's, is 3.42A at best, for 350's, it's 3.15A per LED. Usually 380's read low and 350's read high. Of course there are loss's along the way.
The 3.45A readings were correct. Each sector was tested separately with the driver removed from the body and hooked up to a heat sinked XML using two fresh cells in parallel. I took readings as each chip was added to make sure it was working.
The series mode (1-2-3-1-2-3-1-2-3)at the tail shows 4.45A-4.46A-4.44A proving that each emitter is putting out that current individually.
I think when all three emitters are running on high at the same time, the law of diminishing returns comes into effect with a return of 8.55A.
I spoke too soon. The switch is on the way out. It started with a lag of a second or two before the light came on, then it wouldn’t come on at all. Sometimes if I set it down, it would eventually come on minutes later. I jumped the switch with a DMM lead, and it comes on no problem. I know that switch is rated for 1.5A.
Gotta look for a new switch.
Many/some push 10-15A+ through these:
http://www.fasttech.com/products/1009/10001865/1135000
http://intl-outdoor.com/omten-reverse-clicky-switch-pbs101-5-pcs-p-566.html
Looks similar, also rated 1,5A. But they seem to get the job done.. :)
Rats. I just placed an order with Hank yesterday.
I saw the way you have blowing switches up lately and was going to PM you.
Genuine Omten 1.5A clickies like those from fasttech/IO will handle 15A no problem and do it reliably and with low resistance loses in my experience.
There’s loads of variations/copies out there though and from what I’ve seen most are no where as good as the real thing. Most of the noname ones that came in my C8s have been crap, lose solid contact pretty quickly and have a mushier action than the real ones. Omtens have quite a stiff spring and solid action which I’m sure helps them function well at high currents but they can feel a little less refined sometimes.
You can try a small amount of PTFE based spray lubricant applied around the clicker switch. Once it dries it can smooth out the action a bit but be warned I don’t know what this does to the reliability of the internal contact surfaces long term.
Yupp, in general Omten seems to be very good.... :)
Btw Ouchy, you assume the driver in your nage and this "yupard" are similar. But the Nage uses mechanical switch and this one uses electronic so they cant be 100% similar...
By the way, I also ordered the “YUPARD” 5x CREE XM-L T6 LED 6000 Lm LED Flashlight Torch Spotlight Searchlight . I don’t yet know what I’m going to do with it, but it’s going to be a long winter. It seems to be a clone of the Solarstorm Raging
It looks like the driver is not the same one as in the Solarstorm. Great price though.
That is a good price for that type of light. Thanks for sharing. :)