I’m wondering if the deep polished bezel ring might leave an outer halo
Great, this might be just the light I’m looking for. Thanks for the info, guys.
The 8.55A tail /3 is 2.85A per LED, but, maybe it's drawing 4.2v or so, but providing 3.5v or so per LED, that's why the actual LED amps is higher at 3.45A?
9 chips per LED, if they are 380's, is 3.42A at best, for 350's, it's 3.15A per LED. Usually 380's read low and 350's read high. Of course there are loss's along the way.
The 3.45A readings were correct. Each sector was tested separately with the driver removed from the body and hooked up to a heat sinked XML using two fresh cells in parallel. I took readings as each chip was added to make sure it was working.
The series mode (1-2-3-1-2-3-1-2-3)at the tail shows 4.45A-4.46A-4.44A proving that each emitter is putting out that current individually.
I think when all three emitters are running on high at the same time, the law of diminishing returns comes into effect with a return of 8.55A.
I spoke too soon. The switch is on the way out. It started with a lag of a second or two before the light came on, then it wouldn’t come on at all. Sometimes if I set it down, it would eventually come on minutes later. I jumped the switch with a DMM lead, and it comes on no problem. I know that switch is rated for 1.5A.
Gotta look for a new switch.
Many/some push 10-15A+ through these:
http://www.fasttech.com/products/1009/10001865/1135000
http://intl-outdoor.com/omten-reverse-clicky-switch-pbs101-5-pcs-p-566.html
Looks similar, also rated 1,5A. But they seem to get the job done.. :)
Rats. I just placed an order with Hank yesterday.
I saw the way you have blowing switches up lately and was going to PM you.
Genuine Omten 1.5A clickies like those from fasttech/IO will handle 15A no problem and do it reliably and with low resistance loses in my experience.
There’s loads of variations/copies out there though and from what I’ve seen most are no where as good as the real thing. Most of the noname ones that came in my C8s have been crap, lose solid contact pretty quickly and have a mushier action than the real ones. Omtens have quite a stiff spring and solid action which I’m sure helps them function well at high currents but they can feel a little less refined sometimes.
You can try a small amount of PTFE based spray lubricant applied around the clicker switch. Once it dries it can smooth out the action a bit but be warned I don’t know what this does to the reliability of the internal contact surfaces long term.
Yupp, in general Omten seems to be very good.... :)
Btw Ouchy, you assume the driver in your nage and this "yupard" are similar. But the Nage uses mechanical switch and this one uses electronic so they cant be 100% similar...
By the way, I also ordered the “YUPARD” 5x CREE XM-L T6 LED 6000 Lm LED Flashlight Torch Spotlight Searchlight . I don’t yet know what I’m going to do with it, but it’s going to be a long winter. It seems to be a clone of the Solarstorm Raging
It looks like the driver is not the same one as in the Solarstorm. Great price though.
That is a good price for that type of light. Thanks for sharing. :)
No, not the same. That was just off topic chatter with Tom E about my last mod with the same driver.
Awesome, glad I threw a pair of those in my last FT order for my mag build (only shooting for 3-5 amps though). 
Maybe post an ad for the spare OMTEN you get with a Trustfire x6?
Boy, I'd love to get my ordered one in before ordering a 2nd though, just to be sure...
Tom! That driver has your name all over it.
Got mine today - with 4 fresh cells, I measured
lumens: 1,897 @ start, 1,839 @30 secs
So if each LED is getting 1.4A, same as ouchy's, that's about 600 lumens per LED. My FandyFire STL-V2 did about 1,650 lumens @30 secs stock, and now modded does about 2,800 lumens @30 secs on 2 cells (series), and my FandyFire UV-S5 (SRK type) does about 2,200 @30 secs.
The box is real nice it came in, but couple of issues:
- the button was loose, easy fix though to tighten it
- the cheezy SS looking bezel - hate the fake ones. The one they showed in the pics looked to be real SS, and chunkier/much better
- there is an obvious touched up scratch on the black smooth part near the head going from the silver bezel to the cooling fins - looks like they painted it over - ugh...
The handle is a nice SS piece, and there's a small flat battery in the tail - not sure what it's for, maybe it turns a light on when charging? The button looking thing on the tail that says "CREE XML - T6" appears to be translucent, so maybe there's a light in there.
Of course the button position sucks for a lefty... good thing the handle is easily removable.
Edit: Ooops! Did a tailcap reading and it's consistent 4.6A - hhmm. Popped out the driver -- very easy, no hammering needed, and noticed the 7135's are 380's, not 350's, so, it's really 1.52A per LED, and that explains the 4.6A tail reading, interesting surprise.
If you look close at the driver pics from ouchy, it does show a 38B label on the 7135's, here: https://budgetlightforum.com/t/-/23130 in post #18.
Comparing the Yupard to my stock UV-S5, it's night and day in quality - the true SS bezel on the UV-S5 is much heavier, the threads are deeply cut. The threads on the Yupard's bezel and battery compartment are very shallow, in fact I'd be afraid at the slightest drop or hit, the bezel on the Yupard would pop right off. I tried doing some LEGO, but the shallow threads on the Yupard won't match up.
I'm thinking also, the LED alignment pieces in the Yupard is stealing some lumens - high walls around the LED. The UV-S5 has flat, low profile centering alignment pieces - may be an easy fix there on the Yupard. Also, the tailcap easily unscrews on the Yupard, while it appears glued on the UV-S5.
The fairly thick aluminum piece the stars are sitting on is ok, but loosely screwed into the body - I mean lots of play/slop, which is another example of poor thread cuts. It looks like you can adjust the height of the LEDS by screwing the plate further down or up - this may help when upgrading to thicker copper stars, but you would need to put some good quality thermal grease on those threads, at the least. I don't think I can tackle adding extra heat sinking - I would upgrade to Noctigons or SinkPAD's though, use good thermal grease on the threads and leave it at that, along with adding 7135's to crack it up to maybe 2.7A per LED - I'll see.
This is just using the original driver board as a slave. All the components are removed except the 7135s. The left leg on all the 7135s goes to LED-, the right leg is the PWM. Everything's in parallel.
NOTE: unless you get a 105C with custom firmware for the momentary switch, this works only with a mechanical clicky.
I can’t get the tail cap off any of my three Yupards. It doesn’t matter so much on the 3xXML version, but the 5xXML model has a tail switch. I don’t want to start modding that one until I know I can get at the switch.
I’ve started on the extra heat sinking on mine. (Other thread). I’ve got the day off tomorrow, so I hope to get it finished.