I'm only achieving 2.25A from a 3.04A driver

I’m betting that your meter/leads is the source of the error…

Ok thanks guys I guess that’s my next step thanks for the info

These type of drivers don't do any kind of fancy stuff like converting excess voltage into amperage, they can only limit the current. They're just restrictors. So the output cannot ever be higher than what that cell is capable pushing through that LED without the driver in the circuit, it will always be lower.

Add a temporary jumper from LED- to ground to bypass the driver, then recheck the tailcap amps. Take that number, subtract 5% or so, and that's the absolute max you'll ever get from a 7135-type driver as long as it's the same cell & same LED.

Thanks for the info comfychair that will deffinatly be my next step

I will mirror what texaspyro said: how heavy are your DMM leads? None of my stock leads have ever given me accurate driver/LED measurements. Here's a test: try measuring at the tailcap through the meter, then short one of the leads across to the body. If you can see the light get brighter then your leads/meter are restricting a significant amount of current.

It is possible that the driver is bad, but most of the problems from what I understand were from the first few batches of qlites. I have tested several that I have added/subtracted chips from and zener modded and they all have been good so far. If the driver truly is bad then either I or IOS (depending on who you purchased it from) will make it right.

Thanks guys
And thanks for the tips
As I’m new to this they are very helpful
Now that I have some more knowledge I’m sure it is very possible my cheap dmm could be to blame

All the Qlite’s that I have received from IOS in the past months seem to check out around 3A. The only problem I’ve had is one of them went into direct drive mode, Hank replaced it by adding another one to my next order.

Or change the battery in your DMM!

When I was first getting started my tail cap amperage readings were always way below what everyone else reported. I took a few inches of 12ga copper wire from some household Romex, bent one end over to double it so it would go in my DMM and used these for amp readings. Voila! Similar readings as what everyone else reported. I've since gone to Tenergy Silicon insulated 12ga wire with banana plugs on each end, same 12ga but very flexible. Makes it easy and accurate to get the readings.

And then there's what comfy said, the cell itself many times can't perform to the driver's max. Make sure you're using good cells, like the Panasonic NCR18650PD which will easily do whatever the Qlite or XM-L/XM-L2 will do.

Just made me want to confirm, I do have some ‘PD’ cells, but I normally use a Panny NCR18650B when I take these readings because they are always close at hand, I think I just assumed it could easily provide a minimum of 3A draw?

Well I did the jumper on the negative to ground
It lit up for about 1sec absolutely beautiful
Then it died
First led I’ve fried but I’m sure it won’t be the last

Ouch! Check, I’ll bet something fried on your Qlite driver, I’m guessing if you put current direct to the emitter you’ll still get light.

Ouch. :(

Did you use the ammeter in place of the tailcap? If so, that's a hint that the meter isn't the cause of the low amp readings.

Jumping LED- to GND won't hurt a thing on that driver, it just bypasses the current-carrying section of the 7135s.

Nope I was trying it with the tailcap on first
But it’s the LED that fried I’ve already checked it so
Mistakes cost money good mistakes “lessons learned” cost even more

Ah man that sucks, frankly I don’t feel comfortable recommending doing direct drive tests exactly because of this possibility.
Depending on the type of cell and the resistance in the circuit you can pump some potentially very dangerous current through the led. I know we can all get complacent with seriously overdriving these leds because usually they’ll take it fine. But any time we push them above their maximum current rating we’re flirting with the possibility of a dead emitter.

XM-Ls are tough but not invincible and imho direct driving should only be done if you have a bit of experience with the setup and you’re happy to replace the led should it go pop. Maybe we could just add a little disclaimer in future when we recommend a DD test to someone who may not be aware of the risks.

I might have to make that last line my signature
Atleast I know I got batteries that can push some current

I should have elaborated more. I’m speculating that an errant conductive source may have caused an inadvertent and unnoticed short on some of the driver contact points in the process. Proabably worth checking before throwing a possibly good emitter out.

Driver is still working great
I just soldered it up to a pt54 red LED
I know it can handle whatever you throw at it
So I tested it in DD and I got a reading of 11.47A ( I’m suprised it didn’t blow the fuse in the dmm)
And 2.74A through the driver so I’m sure it’s my dmm that’s to blame
I love the pt54 it’s built like a tank and it comes with a pretty massive heatsink

Sounds like you tested the PD cell, and that's why the emitter blew, can't handle over 11A even with a good copper heat sink.

When you were first asking, the cell you were using is...I think...rated at just over 4A. That one should'nt have hurt the Cree emitter. The PD is a different story.