Ah crap, the switch is integrated with the driver. I guess I could remove all of the components of the board and glue a 105C on there, but I assumed it was a switch like on the SRK.
Take this XM-L2 chart, and remove a certain amount for reflector loss, and AR coated lens loss.
I would not de-dome the emitter that came with my light. It was said to be a 1A, but it looked like more like a 1C to me. I can barely rate de-domed 1A as acceptable. I hate tints that reminds me of green-yellowish puke.. I wont be de-doming anything that looks to be above the BBL (see line on ansi chart) unless I can do some tint mixing to fix it. Emitters in other L4s might be better suited... Its also a matter of taste...
great write up! This looks very similar to the Nitecore P16 I won a little while ago, but HUGELY easier to mod (although anything has to be easier than a light that you melt the reflector trying to open). Side switch with a tail on/off switch is an awesome set up, tail switch only just feels awkward now. Or will do, once I fix my P16
JonnyC - I don’t see why you can’t make a holder for the switch out of a piece of plastic pipe the right size, as long as there’s room for a 105C in there. Congrats on your own firmware too, did you write it from scratch? I keep wanting to work on a e-switch firmware but life and other projects keeps getting in the way.
I basically started with luxdrv and figured out the electronic switch logic. I just haven't had much time to build lights and improve on the program. Was considering a flashing service until PPtk came up with his driver, which sadly must have been shelved.
This light is certainly going to be in my next FT order.
neat, I’ll have to bug you when the time comes to write my own
sorry for the hijack Race86!
Lovely mod thread, thanks for the documentation!
After the resistor mod, the driver is… more efficient?!
I’ll need to get this one as well…
As long as its related to the L4 or modding (the L4), its all good! :)
If putting a 7135 based driver in there I would just strip the stock driver, except the switch.. A little part of the nanjg needs to sit over the switch. Saying that there is good space in there might have been an exaggeration, but its space..
Thanks. Hope I don't type too much.. :p
No change in efficiency before/after mod. Input amps=output amps on this driver.
The reason why my last tailcap reading were slightly lower than the emitter amps was probably just because of the connection or something. Emitter amps is a more precise way to measure amps despite that there is a little bit of loss in my wires/connections.
Oh boy, you’ve made me struggle. I am going to order one of those good quality “C8 format” lights and I’m struggling in between the XinTD C8 and this Convoy L4. The XinTD seems to have better and more solid overall built (screw-in reflector, driver with retaining ring…) BUT it doesn’t has side switch, while this L4 is only fall short on its water resistivity due to its side switch. What should I do? What should I do?!
EDIT: The driver in the XinTD C8 does not has retaining ring with it, but soldered onto the pill, my bad.
You know the answer....get both
Johnny - what exactly did you figure out for the elctronic switch? I'm looking to find out how the port I/O is mapped to read the star solder pts. Think it's Port 15 (B) I believe. Haven't started testing it though.
I have always recommended the Xintd despite not owning it. Like you say, its a well built light, good parts, screw in reflector, AR lens, Qlite and with mode options, tint options. Its a great light!
IMO L4 does have a few advantages though.
Aluminium body > brass screw in pill
Copper mcpcb which are tightly secured by screws > screw in reflector
Dual switch setup with electronic side switch > tail clicky only
Qlite vs LD-34-A. That is subjective, but the L4 is a tad more "sophisticated" (not sure if its got any sort of low voltage protection or warning yet, which I would prefer).
Buy an AR lens for the L4 and its still cheaper (depending on where you buy and what emitter option)
Looks are subjective, but id say the L4 looks way nicer. See them side by side here.
L4 is shorter.
L4 can easily be modded for higher output as well, its actually easier to add a resistor or two to it than to stack several 7135s onto a Qlite.
Im probably biased towards the L4 though, but its a reason why I bought that instead of the Xintd. So far it have lived up to my expectations.
That pretty much solves it.. :p
Then you can get different tints too. ^^
Johnny - what exactly did you figure out for the elctronic switch? I'm looking to find out how the port I/O is mapped to read the star solder pts. Think it's Port 15 (B) I believe. Haven't started testing it though.
Look at register PINB to determine what pins are pulled low. I used PB3, so to check the value you do this...
(PINB & (1 << PB3))
If it's 0, it's pulled low (pressed). If it's 1, it's pulled high (open).
You have to set up the pin for input though...
PORTB |= (1 << PB3);
I think I actually may have pulled this code from Tido's original code as it had the ability to have an input switch.
As for the other stars, I would have to look at what stars connect to what pins, then reference that here...
I wanted to test a XM-L2 U2 1A on Noctigon in it… (I know, RaceR86 did not swap out a CW emitter to NW tint or some 80+ CRI stuff or anything? Well id though Id try to have a “non-thrower light” with a CW emitter for once… At least until I feel the urge to swap it with something less harsh…
Now, the strange thing… With the new emitter from IOS I was down to 2,75A with the slightly used cell. Same cell I got 3A with on stock emitter… WTF…?
Switched back to stock emitter, 3,01A at the emitter… huh… Thats good, but… Where was those amps with the IOS emitter? Tested another/different 20mm XM-L2 U2 1A on Noctigon from IOS, 2,25A… WTF Thats just wrong… where is my 3A? Tested another one, this one on 16mm Noctigon and ordered at a different time…Close to 2,65A WFT I want my 3 amps, without using a fresh cell or a high current/lower capacity cell… Basically I want an emitter that can do 3A or close to it for a fairly good amount of time…
Ill reflow the stock emitter and one of my XM-L2 U2s to new Noctigons myself…
Result: 2,63A on emitter from IOS which I reflowed… no improvement or loss…
The stock emitter better continue to do 3A… And it did! 3A with the stock emitter on Noctigon and a slightly drained high capacity cell…
Lots of emitters have temporarily been sitting like showed on the picture…
It’s called Vf - forward voltage. Driver doesn’t seem to regulate well, which means higher Vf - less amps.
cool… another light for resistor mod :heart_eyes: I love this light… it is beautiful light, I don’t care much about the waterproof part, because I don’t plan to stay outside when it’s rain
It's called Vf - forward voltage. Driver doesn't seem to regulate well, which means higher Vf - less amps.
I mentioned the Vf right below where you quoted me. I see nothing wrong with the way the driver regulates.. There does not seem to be much resistance in it either. :) (tested same used NCR18650B in the L4 and in a light using Qlite and XM-L2. I saw a higher tailcap reading on the L4. Again, probably due to the lower Vf in the emitter)
The change in amps are due to the Vf issues in the emitters, not in the driver. Regulation is good as far as I have seen.
cool… another light for resistor mod :heart_eyes: I love this light… it is beautiful light, I don’t care much about the waterproof part, because I don’t plan to stay outside when it’s rain
:beer:
btw, no one have actually confirmed that the switch is a weak point for rain...
Ohhh - thanx Jonny!! Was wondering bout that, if Tidos' original had support for it. Didn't seem documented in the code clearly, not sure. I looked at it...
I gotta stop looking at this thread; every time I want an L4 even more…
do you have to unsolder the wires from LEDs first in order to get to the driver?
Yupp, otherwise the wires will hold it back..