Johnny - what exactly did you figure out for the elctronic switch? I'm looking to find out how the port I/O is mapped to read the star solder pts. Think it's Port 15 (B) I believe. Haven't started testing it though.
I have always recommended the Xintd despite not owning it. Like you say, its a well built light, good parts, screw in reflector, AR lens, Qlite and with mode options, tint options. Its a great light!
IMO L4 does have a few advantages though.
Aluminium body > brass screw in pill
Copper mcpcb which are tightly secured by screws > screw in reflector
Dual switch setup with electronic side switch > tail clicky only
Qlite vs LD-34-A. That is subjective, but the L4 is a tad more "sophisticated" (not sure if its got any sort of low voltage protection or warning yet, which I would prefer).
Buy an AR lens for the L4 and its still cheaper (depending on where you buy and what emitter option)
Looks are subjective, but id say the L4 looks way nicer. See them side by side here.
L4 is shorter.
L4 can easily be modded for higher output as well, its actually easier to add a resistor or two to it than to stack several 7135s onto a Qlite.
Im probably biased towards the L4 though, but its a reason why I bought that instead of the Xintd. So far it have lived up to my expectations.
cool… another light for resistor mod :heart_eyes: I love this light… it is beautiful light, I don’t care much about the waterproof part, because I don’t plan to stay outside when it’s rain
I mentioned the Vf right below where you quoted me. I see nothing wrong with the way the driver regulates.. There does not seem to be much resistance in it either. :) (tested same used NCR18650B in the L4 and in a light using Qlite and XM-L2. I saw a higher tailcap reading on the L4. Again, probably due to the lower Vf in the emitter)
The change in amps are due to the Vf issues in the emitters, not in the driver. Regulation is good as far as I have seen.
:beer:
btw, no one have actually confirmed that the switch is a weak point for rain...
Ohhh - thanx Jonny!! Was wondering bout that, if Tidos' original had support for it. Didn't seem documented in the code clearly, not sure. I looked at it...
I’ve got .12R, .22R, and .5R resistors on the way… Any idea on a possible combination to score in the 4-5A range? I’m currently seeing about 2.7 on unprotected panny NCR18650B 3400mAh.
Im not even sure unprotected NCR18650B will give you peak output above 4A, either way, it will not stay above 3,5A for long anyway. There is no point in trying to set the light up for really high amps unless you are using a battery that is capable of staying there for some time. Then you will just make the mode spacing worse.
As with all resistors mods, the higher you push, the higher chance of breaking something.
Id say try one 0.12R and 0.22R if you want to get high with that battery. I have not done the math, but it should probably get you close/ or maybe around 4A in theory, if you dont have issues with resistance. Which you might already have..
Nice Tom E, how high will you aim? I expect you to push the limits.. 0:)
I don't have my L4 anymore.. But I might buy another one. Its such a nice light and host. I miss it.
(I actually have 2 different C8 lights on the way, there goes the not buying any more regular C8 lights)
I hope others share their results before and after resistor mods on these lights. :)
Thanks for the mod and teardown info, R86!
The driver is a buck or (probbaly) boost driver of some kind. This explains the difference in tailcap and emitter currents. I’m not sure if it can be pushed to 4A+ without burning up.
I’m liking the look of this light, it has everything in one package (forward-clicky, side-switch for modes, looks good, nice thermal design, moddable).