Thanks for that pic! That helps a lot! I'll probably attempt the same when I get around to this.
-Garry
That is very smart.
You have created a maglite dropin.
I took the switch out and soldered my wires to it. Your way is better, no need to take the switch out and you can quickly and easily switch back to the stock Maglite! Good job.
I am still waiting for my new, “designer” MR16. I ordered it 11/2 and it is still not here. 
Here is a pic comparing the older lamp on top vs the new one on the bottom.
The stars and the drivers are identical. What is different is the lens, heat sink and plastic base. The heat sink is a little less beefy, but still the same size. Now instead of screws holding everything together, everything simply snaps together.
Because the stars are the same, I can merely swap my old modified “9W” star for the original and I am all set.
5 minutes later, done.
I think this looks much nicer, in fact it would seem that I spent hours working on it, but not so! I think this is a nice upgrade, even if you have already done the mod.
Thanks to Helios- for spotting this lamp!
Is it visibly brighter?
I only changed the optics and the heat sink that it clips to. Same throw also.
Ah you already had changed your LEDs…
Looks a lot nicer with the new lens.
This is VERY important. The LED’s from the previous MR16’s must of had a Vf of around 3.7V. These newer ones seem to have a Vf of around 3.2V
I connected a bench supply to the driver from this new lamp and measured the voltage at the supply, to the star and the current flowing through the 3 LED’s in series (unmodified star). I varied the power supply voltage from 12V all the way up to 24V with no problems. In that range the voltage to the star and the current flowing through the emitters was constant. This is good news. The driver never even got warm.
Old star, voltage across the 3 emitters was around 11V. Current draw was .30A
New star was 9.5V and .30A
So this means that those emitters will probably blow up in a 3D mod. The GOOD news is that they are perfect for a 2D mod! I just checked, one emitter draws .30A with 2 D cells in series DD.
EDIT: These LED’s will not run on 2 NiMH cells
Are you referring to the Bridgelux emitters in the "old MR16" or the original emitters before the Bridgelux? I assume the latter. So what kind of vF do the Bridgelux have? Must be fit for a 3D as that's what you been running them with. (You do have them running DD with no driver or resistors at all, right?)
-Garry
What I just tested was the original emitters from the original lamp, comparing those to the LED’s in the new lamp. I eventually upgraded those original LED’s to the BridgeLux. https://www.fasttech.com/products/1116609
Looks good Dchomak. The floody nature of the original optics (and the new one just reported by you) seems perfect for a UV light. Those 1w and 3w UV emitters are in the same format too.
Definitely like the newer one better.
Did anyone ever try one of these bulbs stock with 3x 18650?
Would one be correct in assuming a large increase in output?
I found another 3d mag tucked away, I was thinking about using the newer bulb assembly, the 3w’s from FT, and 3x 18650.
I think the included driver is a CC driver, see my post above. So even though the HO FT LED’s (wow, 3 abbreviations in a row) have the potential to be brighter, they will be limited to .30A because of the driver. And going DD will probably blow the LED’s included in this new lamp.
Hmph. :\
Any ideas on any of the single bulb assemblies able to handle 3x liion?
I’d like to do another one of these fun little buggars, but preferrably more on the throw side; otherwise I think I’ll just order another sst50, xml2/xpg2 on copper, make a beefy copper sink, and drop in a driver for 2/3 liion at 4-6 amps… basically repeating my DST mod, which isn’t very exciting.
3 lions have 9-12V so you could simply check the original driver if it works below 12V….
I have done this with a mr16bulb from ikea for a friend, I removed the bridge rectifier to get another Volt back and it worked quite nice on a 6V PB battery…
And of course you could always use a different driver circuit, I have done this mod with a 2D Incan and a AA 1A driver, gives now continuously light…
3W are now 3.2V*0.3A…? That is a funny…
I tested the stock assembly on 6v 40amp using a battery charger to check the emitters were good and it worked fine.
They do make 9W versions of the MR16, it’s just that I don’t know if there are any in the new style. One of those should work straight out of the box with 3-18650
There are IR emitters also. I got a night scope for my birthday, it would be fun to try an IR Maglite with it.
Anyone measured there tailcap current?
I am asking because I have over 2A with two D cells and a 1A boost driver. What does the stock switch say with such a current?
As I now have learned a mag will be upgradeable too I will build a dropin for a two C maglite as a gift
I’m looking at 1.5A with 3 D at 4.5v with a warm triple drop in stock 3x3W LED.
A friend took my cool white. 
I get 2.1A with a single unprotected 18650 in a Mag 2C with 3 –3W BridgeLux emitters from FastTech.