Review: Brinyte DIV05 (dive light)

I'm pretty hyped about the Brinyte DIV05.


Specifications:

Cost: $34 - but fluctuates (Ali, MiC, Amzn, DGX). see Brinyte's entire line: (Brinyte, Alibaba, MiC)

Construction: anodized "T6061" aluminum (most likely they meant 6060-T6 cf. wiki 6061)

Size: 135 x 40 x 35mm (length x head diameter x tube diameter)
Imperial units: 5.3'' x 1.6'' x 1.4''

Weight: 191g / 6.7 ounces (without battery). 238g / 8.4 ounces with battery

UI (User Interface): Twisty (turn the head to turn ON/Off)

Powered by: (1) 18650 Li-ion cell

LED: (1) Cree XM-L U2 with smooth (SMO) reflector

ANSI Output: 600lm OTF; 8,800cd (candela)


Amp draw: 2.3-2.8A (advertised current draw varies depending on site) I measured 2.78A at the tailcap

Burn Time: 1.5 hrs (advertised). 3 hrs with 3400mAh Panasonic (my results)

Working Voltage: 2.7- 4.2V

Depth rating: 200m (656ft)

Each Category gets a 1-5 star rating (*****)

**** UI (User Interface): Twisty. The light is operated by twisting the head. I didn't give 5 stars because sometimes it can be harder to turn. Edit: new dive light I received is easier to twist.



The head has some knurling, but I wish the grooves were deeper to provide better grip. When the o-ring lube wears down it becomes harder to twist on & off.

Notice the knurling

**** Design: It feels solid in the hand, very robust. It seems like you could throw this light down the street and pick it up and it would function like normal. I wish I could do these torture tests for you guys, but I don't have the $$ to do that.

My preference is for back-up lights w/out switches (magnetic switches are fine). But regular switches can easily break when the dive light falls on the ground. And if you periodically travel the light needs to handle the abuse of getting tossed around.

I don't care for the tint of the LED. It has a cool white emitter and I can see some blueish tint in the beam when I compare it to my other dive lights. But it's not so bad that I dislike the light, it's more preference. I personally prefer a neutral tint like a 3C color temperature. And there is no easy way to get to the LED to replace it.


The anodization isn't the quality of a light like the Light-For-Me mini back-up tec. Whether the DIV05 is HAIII type anodization I don't know. It has more of a matte black finish vs. the glossier finish on the mini tec or DIV03 (Cf. pic)

The length and LED tint is very close to the mini back-up tec (far right)...

From left to right: Aleto 26650, Brinyte DIV05, LFM Mini tec


Rear attachment point for bolt snap


The DIV05 has 3 o-rings where the head separates from the body - usually I see 2 o-rings on most dive lights.



Unfortunately the DIV05 comes apart at not one, but two places, which is unnecessary because you can replace the battery where the head and tube come apart. This is a problem because while your twisting the light head to turn it OFF you'll be gripping onto the tailcap end and this end can unscrew at the same time! This is just another possible entry point for water to flood the light.

You can apply a little medium strength Loctite on the tailcap end so it won't screw off. For permanent seal use Red Loctite. Edit: tailcap doesn't come off with new light I received.

There are two o-rings on the tube where the tailcap unscrews.

Alternatively, you could use the tailcap end to turn the light On & Off. But I prefer to permanently seal off that end, because it's easier for me to twist the head then the tailcap - there is just more surface area to grip on the head end.


They leave a spot blank so other sellers can laser engrave their company logo. But you can add your own personal touch. This one below is a Christmas gift for a fellow dive buddy.

Edit: new one has Brinyte DIV05 logo.

Merry Christmas David


Burn Time & Brightness: 3hrs with an unprotected 3400mAh Panasonic cell.

Runtime is not very long, this is because of the driver. On the other hand it's pretty bright with a Cree XM-L U2 drawing around 2.7 amps at the tailcap. A diver will probably want to change out the cell every 1.5hrs to keep it bright. So on typical recreational dives you could use this on two full dives.

As with all my dive light tests - runtimes are done in a tub of cold water. I use a Panasonic cell. These offer some of the best runtimes. I stopped the test when I ran the cell down to 2.75V so I wouldn't damage the unprotected cell.

I like to use unprotected cells when technical diving. Protected cells will cut off when they run down to their cut-off voltage (~2.7V). And I don't want my light going out if I'm inside a wreck or cave just to preserve the battery.

Lumens are 600lm with 8,800cd (candela) for throw, using a Cree XM-L U2 emitter.


See Beamshot Comparisons: vs. Aleto 26650 vs. Brinyte DIV03


***** Value: I think this is a super deal - Solid light. Very dependable. Decent brightness without modification. Simple twisty activation. Single battery operation. Because of these features it's one of my favorite back-up dive lights.


Other sellers: There is also a Securitylng seller (eBay, Ali, Amzn). I received this version from Amazon and it appears identical in both appearance and beam. I know they state 2.2A for the operational current, but I couldn't notice any decrease in brightness.


Ordering experience through Alibaba: My first time ordering was kinda awkward... I opened a chat session and asked for the cost shipped to USA. They gave me a price then sent me a PayPal address to send them money. So I sent the ~$36 and waited.

For shipping I think I asked for China air (cheapest). About 5 weeks later I received the light. It took longer then normal because I ordered it right before National Day. But after receiving the light it has performed flawlessly.


Conclusion: If you think you like this type of user interface (twisty) then I highly recommend the DIV05. I think it will last you a long time as long as you take care of it. I have no reservations taking this cave diving or beyond 150ft depth.

This is one of the best all around dive lights.

I rate this


Thanks for the review! I really like the look of that light!

I also have what appears to be the Aleto which I got from Meritline for $20. It’s been reviewed pretty thoroughly https://budgetlightforum.com/t/-/18992. I did the pill mod to improve the thermal transfer. This light has been on several dives and is fine. I do like the ability to take a 26650 though I would have been fine with a 18650 so far.

How would you compare the 2 lights?

Both lights use a Cree XM-L emitter. Aleto = T6 brightness bin. DIV05 U2 brightness bin. (cf. wiki brightness bins)

my latest tailcap current measurements: Aleto: 2.8A DIV05: 2.78A - so basically the same amperage draw.

Talking about Beam Profile (hotspot vs. spill). Outside the Aleto has a really bright hotspot and can throw further, while the beam on the DIV05 seems to have more lumens in the spill.

Beamshots: Aleto 26650 vs. Brinyte DIV05 (mouse over)

Tint: The DIV05 has more of a cool white tint.

Li-ion Cells: With the powerful 26650 the Aleto also stays brighter longer. The DIV05 uses the very popular 18650.

I will use the Aleto as a canister light replacement for shorter duration dives. But the DIV05 I would not - it's strictly a back-up to me, though still bright.

Turning On & off: I can switch the Aleto on and off with one hand, but the DIV05 twisty takes 2 hands.

Durability: we know that the Aleto's switch parts will rust out after multiple uses in saltwater. DIV05 - Other than the issue I mentioned in the review (about using thread Loctite on the tailcap) you should only have routine o-ring maintenance - I don't foresee any issues with this light. It has a very solid feel to it.

While the Aleto is bigger: e.g. 50mm bezel width vs. 40mm (DIV05),

because it uses much thinner aluminum it weighs in at 185g vs. 191g (DIV05).

That was WAY more thorough than I expected. My appreciation and thanks.

I have taken the magnetic switch apart and packed it with thick silicone grease. I guess I’ll see how far that takes it. If I had know how it worked I’d have done that before diving it. That and the little $10 plastic cheapy are my first foray into budget LED lights. I had an Underwater Kinetics 400 (4xD-cell @ 5W) I converted to a 400R by changing to 4000mA NiXX batteries and the 18W bulb. Both my wife and I used those for over 10 years and they did just fine.

I’ve mounted my Aleto on my old hard Goodman handle from my canister light and take it instead sometimes. The canister is great but I admit to not liking the cord. It’s just another thing to tangle up and be annoying. The Aleto is almost as bright and is a bit more focused so works just as well for most purposes. The entire light is smaller than the canister light head. I can’t say I trust it for the long haul but time will tell.

When I first received the 26650 Aleto the initial brightness impressed me. That's when I started using it like a canister light on short dives. What is the make and model of your canister light?

Mine is made locally by a retired machinist. You can see the basic parts here. It goes for $400 and is becoming kind of a standard for folks looking for a can light for local conditions (Puget Sound cold water). It’s well made, relatively inexpensive for the type, and runs on basic $30 6-cell battery packs easily obtained from radio control stores. I have one of his prototypes using 2S2P lion with 18650 but other than being a smaller canister it’s essentially the same light. He decided the difficulty and risks associated with lion did not warrant the switch. He consulted with me about batteries and chargers which I’m more familiar with.

Dusty Light.

Reading above I see that probably every diver in the world has bought one of those cheap
26650 twisty light (you call it an Aleto)!

Has anyone modified /changed older Underwater Kinetics dive lights that use 6volt lead acid batteries
and Xenon incard. bulbs into led thowers using the same batteries? I have about ten of them and still
use them frequently, but the bulbs are out of production so my time limit for there use is finite.

Of course after buying my first ‘cheap 1800lm 26650 diving light’ I got bitten by the strange bug that
lures one of the led lamp!
I have been soaking up knowledge here for some time, but there is so much more to learn.

I thought about that as I have a half dozen UK 400’s that still work. I can get bulbs for them. I quit using the expensive UK rechargeable batteries years ago.

One problem is the price of conversion vs. simply buying something that will probably be smaller and brighter right off the shelf. The Aleto costs about the same as the BULB for the UK 400R. Plus it’s smaller, and I’ve mounted it on a Goodman handle so I don’t even have to hold it. Long term quality is a different issue. The UK lights can last for years if not flooded.

The other problem is heat. The incandescent ARE hot-no problem, that’s how they work. The new powerful LED’s get hot but need to be heat sinked to remove that heat. It’s difficult to provide a good path for that with the plastic housing. Take a look at the new UK LED lights. They all have some mechanism to do that built in. For a beginner like myself this is a significant mod beyond my willingness to take on.

I spent a LOT of time on Scubaboard doing research and kept coming up against these same issues.

FLYDIVER ,I agree that the cost would be close to a cheap new one , but I was thinking of
just throwing in an emitter with a basic driver and using the torch with its battery as is.
There is plenty of room to put some cooling fins inside (under the reflector).

I’m off to Scubaboard to catch up with the research you mentioned!

Thanks

Yes I thought they were all the same. Then one day I bought a couple from another place and they were totally different. Although they looked identical to my Aleto 26650. they were...

(1) poor construction - plastic switch has more play.

(2) weak output 1.5A on high? I can't remember.

(3) the user interface was different. If you were on High then turned it off. To get back... you would have to cycle through Med, Low, Lower, then finally back to High.

So I recommended only this eBay seller (aletocn) - though many of them are probably the same.

I have not found many good light reviews over on ScubaBoard (SB). But if you do then let us know.

Still looking for a way to replace the steel ball bearing and spring that rust out in salt water. Any ideas?

I now advise coating with thick silicone grease before use but I think that will only extend the inevitable.

(10 PCS) (2.5mm) (0.0984") Ceramic Bearing Ball Silicon Nitride (Si3N4) Grade 5

Link from eBay.

I measured the ball bearing at 2.48mm, so this should work.

re. the spring. What could we spray it with that would protect it from saltwater?

I think there's something that would work well.

Over on CPF Packhorse speculated about replacing both spring & BB with a small piece of plastic (CPF). See near bottom of his post.

A stainless steel spring is probably best….IF such a tiny spring can be found.
Coatings are a problem. Scuba regulators generally have some strong SS springs also exposed to saltwater. To prevent regulator freezing a plastic coating is applied. That wears off after awhile. It would be hard to get on a spring that small anyway.
The guy that did the review on it lost his ball bearing and used a blob of solder, also a reasonable substitution.
I’ve wondered about a dense foam plug. Trouble is diving tends to smush foam flat. I doubt it would last long. Bit of pencil erasure or firm rubber plug?

I’ve got two of the Aleto 26650 lights and lost the spring on one when I took it apart.
Looked everywhere to try and find a stainless replacement but couldn’t find one.

I’m going to coat the magnet with something to seal it but haven’t decided what yet.
To replace the spring I’m thinking of trying a short section of o-ring, I’m hoping this will provide enough spring and would be unaffected by salt water.

For some measurements I took apart a Yupard version of the Aleto light. It's my spare parts version.

Enlarged


I'm not so concerned about finding more springs as much as the COST of replacement parts which can stand up to saltwater.

Ball Bearing diameter: 0.098 in = 2.48mm (on eBay: 12 pc, 20 pc - make an offer)

I think that may be a decent ball bearing substitute for sea water.

Spring:
OD: 0.103 in = 2.62mm (outer diameter)
ID: 0.075 in = 1.9mm (inner diameter was hard to measure - may not be exact)
Free Length = 0.110 in = 2.79mm (this is the overall length - uncompressed)
Wire Dia. = 0.014 - 0.015 in = 0.36mm
Coils = 3
Too bad these substitute springs cost too much...
from Century Spring (LA, USA): 12479 (SS = stainless steel) ~ double length, but could be cut (cf. search form)
Lee Spring (in UK) - size may be close enough (CIM025C 01 S) - passivated SS (info)
111 Viton o-ring (3/32'' width) substitute (per flydiver's rubber plug suggestion) - So I cut a small piece of a sturdy Viton o-ring and placed it in the spring hole.
(buy: Amzn, DGE)
Seems to work... I'm playing with it right now... it clicks into place like it's supposed to, but not smooth. I should of sanded the tip and made it rounded where it will touch the switch. I'm thinking a softer o-ring would be better... this Viton is hard. Not sure how long this will last when turning the switch multiple times - it may wear it down. But it's a saltwater light now.
Oh wait, I should coat the magnet in the switch.

You know we wouldn't be having these issues if you guys just bought the light I reviewed above. BTW I've done a bunch of editting to the original post. If you have Amazon Prime then here you go (Amzn)
Disclaimer: actually I can't vouch for this Securitylng version - it's possible it could have a weaker driver ("2.2A"). Like I stated above, I measure about 2.8A at the tailcap with the original Brinyte DIV05.

True except I first read about the Aleto much earlier, here and here

What would you think would work well to seal the magnet?
I’d think the o-ring for spring would stand up to many cycles although I can see the click stops not being as smooth as a spring.

I’m interested in the DIV05 though and will probably try one or two, does it come apart at the bezel as well?
Am I correct that there is no switch, your simply unscrewing the head from the body enough to break the electrical path?

Yeah I guess I did recommend it. In the beginning I was pleasantly surprised with the brightness of the 26650 Aleto... then we seen it had those rust issues. For freshwater diving it should last a lot longer (quarries, lakes, springs).

I think this would work fine, maybe even great… clear plumber & marine adhesive (Loctite, Amzn, Walmart, eBay)

No the bezel doesn’t unscrew. Just 2 pieces can come off - tailcap & front head - leaving just the tube. Though I would recommend to Loctite the tailcap per my review (see pic above where I wrote “Loctite”).

Yeah that is all there is to it. Some ppl don’t like twistys saying that it wears out the o-rings, but periodic lubing alleviates these issues.

Also consider this x-beam w/magnetic switch (eBay - make an offer).

Or this is a 2 x 18650 light, made by Brinyte (eBay) - I personally prefer shorter/smaller dive lights. That DIV04 measures at 211mm / 8.3'' long. (improved Brinyte site)

Just a thought, any chance this light has the same issue as the Trustfire TR-DF003 ?

The switch on that light is unscrewing the tail cap a bit, and on this one its the head.
On the TF light I guess the saltwater acts as a conductor and that sets up galvanic corrosion that causes rapid damage to the entire light.

offroad - Yeah it bubbles like this one, but even more

that's not bad is it?? (from post, post)

Well I've had the DIV05 on saltwater dives and it's never done any thing like that. "electrolysis"

It's a good light. My highest rated one.