Hi Linus,
Thanks for the review.
Can you tell me what the outermost diameter of that heat sink plate the LED sits on is?
Sure, that’s what I’ve called the “emitter shelf thread O/D”, probably could have named it better. It’s 41.75mm.
I got tailcap lockout!
just unscrew the tailcap, unscrew the b- pcb, take it out
screw the three screws that were holding it to the body
place the pcb OVER the screws
get something that can create pressure on the pcb from the tailcap (I used a lid from film canister) and place it over the pcb
screw the tailcap on and BAM! 
when you tighten the tailcap, it pushes the pcb on the screws and completes the circuit
loosen it a bit and the pressure from the springs breaks the contact
Nice and simple, good job!
Update: I ordered a custom firmware driver from DrJones (mokkadrv - 4 mode) that I’ll be using in this light.
Probably won’t do much work on it till I get this driver, too many projects on the go and I really need to get my BTU-MTG2 monster project finished up.
But I’m keen to see what others are coming up with in the meantime so feel free to post any progress or ideas in this thread so we can have a collection of useful info on this light.
If anyone has any questions or wants any measurements let me know, the light will stay disassembled for now.
Linus. I’ve just encountered the same type of threaded emitter plate on the Yupard I started working on. The COURUI has an integral ledge that the plate threads down onto, but mine doesn’t. I can’t add extra heat sinking that will transfer heat into a ledge that is part of the head.
Looks like the shelf threads in the body are also anodized on that Yupard, that can’t be helping thermal transfer surely.
I’ve got an idea! I’ll let you know if it pans out.
Allegedly, anodizing doesn't affect the thermal properties in a significant way. It might be measurable, but that doesn't mean much. If your wife says 'it's cold in here!' and you raise the temp from 63.4* to 63.8*, that's measurable, but probably not likely to do anything to stop the complaining. :)
A change in output of 1 lumen is measurable, but how much work would you be willing to invest for one lumen? How many lumens would an improvement have to be to be worth whatever work required to get it?
Just placed a order for 2 cant wait
Sure, I’m just suggesting something that could potentially improve a poor heatsinking solution.
I bet even small changes in thermal conductivity at the interface will have some effect when the contact surface from a loosely threaded emitter shelf is already minimal.
I don’t know how hard it is to remove anodizing though so it may not be worth the hassle, maybe the same benefit can be had by just slapping some thermal paste on the threads instead…
Removing the anodizing won't improve anything, as it's not a hindrance. It's not one of those little things that when combined with a bunch of other little things adds up to something meaningful, it just doesn't affect it one way or the other.
Now, an anodized outside surface has better radiative properties than bare aluminum, but for internal parts it doesn't matter.
I got my COURUI today. Eleven days. Wow! I really like the look and feel of this light. Now I have to decide what I’m going to do to it.
I’m getting a reading of .290A accross the tail on high. What am I doing wrong?
Did you remove the filament wire before taking the reading? 
How’s the output of the light in general, you’d notice if that was the actual drive current. Would be very dim.
No, I didn’t remove the filament. I just placed my probes on each end.
It was bothering me, so I took an emitter reading… 2.22A. Man, those wires sure are microscopic. The light throws great. I only tested off my balcony, but it went through a dark area, accross a highly lit street and lit up a dark alley on the other side.
Well that’s the problem, you’re only reading a fraction of the true current like that. The majority is still going through the wire and not being measured!
For accurate current readings your DMM needs to be in series with the circuit without any other conductor in parallel.
I just got one of these light the other day. I found this thread and I was excited to see it being modded already. I was thinking about a SSR-90 but I see the pill is pretty low on material. I have 3 of the Courui 12 XML lights. One which is heavy modoed with 12 XML2 U2 LEDs and a Hyperboost driver. I did the exact mod on the tail contact plate you did with the screws! I just had to share that! Awesome job!
Here is my 12 XML build thread: Kinda getting off subject of this Courui but Im very proud of my Courui 12 XML2 light! haha!
I’m just having fun t08 on the right, big head on the left -both modded as mentioned (captured with a phone so please excuse the quality, it’s cold here)
OMG that’s awesome, i cant wait for my 2 comes in from KD and those pics are nice for being on a phone
Mine arrived from KD yesterday. I haven’t taken the driver out yet, but the rest appears to be the same as in the OP pictures.
Only notable difference is the led is on a thicker 25mm aluminium star.
The beam is nice & uniform, & well focused. I like the UI; H-L-off. Hidden strobe.
Happy with this light - even in stock form it’s up there with some of my better modded lights.
Will be taking some measurements in stock form before modding, for comparison
