Hi I have just got a skyrayking 6t6 (I dont know if this is a genuine thing or clone etc). The driver is very basic looking with a total of ten components. The wires are the same size as my trustfire mini-01 keychain light inside ie tiny.
Id guess its giving off 1500 lumens max and want to install a driver bypass switch for momentary Direct Drive. I did this on an apex 5t6 and worked great but I did it via permanent wires inside. It had a beefy tail switch too, not an electronic one like this skyray.
Maybe if I just put some fat wires to the leds for now I will be happier. But now I have set my mind to it and the driver is out.
My question is this. I can easily find a two pin push switch, drill a 10mm hole in the head and install it, connect it to earth+led negative to bypass the negative side of the driver but…
Although the red positive led wire shows constant positive (even when off) this would be via the toroid. What is that toroid going to do when its left between batteries and leds. Will it just carry the current like a wire. Will it waste a few watts and help to not cook the leds. Or will it double the voltage and explode in my electrically uneducated hands.
Maybe I can find an isolated switch with 4 wires that will bypass both the negative and positive sides of the board. I can find toggle switches to do this easy but its a nice compact light and dont want protrusions really.
Anyway happy nearly Christmas everyone and thanks if you can help me theorise the outcome so I dont blow up this flashlight. Dan
I don’t know if thats a “genuine” skyray, but it ceratainly isn’t the best driver. The one everyone around here rants and raves about has three torroids on it.
As far as direct driving it should be as easy as bypassing the driver completely on the negative side if the positive is directly connected, but I couldn’t tell you for sure without getting my hands on it.
I don’t know about your direct drive question but I have that light and modded it so that it puts out close to 4,000 lumens when you first turn it on. It drops quickly after that to 3,500 and heats up fast on high, but the low is great and I use the high as turbo, I also de-domed it while I was at it.
I put copper braid over the springs and soldered a piece of cooper wire over the 2 resistors in the position R4 and Q1( 3 o`clock) the ones labeled with 000, also added heavy wire.
I think this is pushing the light about as hard as it can handle heat wise already.
The pill/backing plate hardly has any threads engaged with the body and the led plate wasnt tightly against it due to poor design and ill fitment.
So I have doubled the feed wires, added a bunch of paste and heatsink plaster and seems about 15% brighter.
Now the thing starts to warm up quickly, so at least the heat is getting out now. Poor Led’s.
If I bypass the driver with another switch on the negative side the positive will still run through one single toroid. Iv no idea what that will do still. Maybe I will just keep it like it is now I know how poor the design is on this clone. Its a nice compact light anyway and dont hate it compared to my chunky old apex thing.
Sorry for the semi-hijack, but 18sixfifty, you happen to have any pics of this one or did you do a write-up or anything? I’d love to see some of this work - sounds perfect for my SRK
Thanks for the pictures/info and welcome to the forum leggera16.
If you ever have that light apart again and have some copper sheet (from flashing or something) available, you could cut out a disk to sandwich between the emitter base and the pill. You probably know, but copper transfers heat like 2 times (can't remember exactly) better than aluminum. You would just want to get it real flat on both sides for good contact. You can also copper or aluminum tape the threads to tighten the pill fitment.
If you're patent, the original SRK driver sometimes goes on sale. There is almost always a coupon active for the vendor. The Wallbuy's deal alert thread has a 12% off coupon code in Post 2660 that is supposed to be good for December. You usually have to refresh the page to see the discount take effect in the shopping cart.
Thanks for the suggestions and help. Iv popped it all back together now and am happier with what I would guess looks like 2000-2200 lumens compared to other torches iv had and beam shots iv seen. That is the same driver and serial numbers.
The copper pill thing had crossed my mind as I have two dead 100w 36v leds that come on a nice disc of copper. But as this board is wired in parallel with the 6 leds also bonded directly to the board I will just leave it as is. They are an awful burglar blinding white too maybe 7000k.
This also stops me from getting a genuine driver as it runs in 3 pairs.
I might set up one xml t6 I have spare and one 18650 with a torroid in the circuit and observe what happens. I have a feeling I did it before by mistake for a while on my apex 5t6 anyway but I do kinda like this light and dont want to risk it. I just bought a couple of switches just incase I try the DD bypass anyway he he
Right im off to read up on some other stuff listed here and maybe find some copper braid out of an old motor or something tonight.
Thanks- I’ll have to pull it apart and see. Thanks again -and thanks for the links Ima4Wheelr! Sorry OP. Would love to see the outcome with whatever switch you can find -keep us posted!
Ok dont take this seriously as im just bored messing around, but this is what iv ended up with for now.
I replaced the main switch with a momentary tactile 10a chrome switch. This offers instant full power with no modes to mess with. It isnt totally dd as I had to run it via the single toroid due to the circuit layout (ie the positive of the led legs are after the toroid). I believe this may limit the current and/or knock the voltage down from 4v to around 3.4v. Its just a guess as its what I have seen in an openly driven toroid driver I have on my bike.
I wanted an additional switch to activate the normal two mode driver but the original is slightly too large for the available body space. As I have nothing in my buckets of crap to suit I decided to make a crude shake it to wake it internal switch. Unfortunately the circuit needs a good few milliseconds contact to wake the torch so you have to make a funny sweeping hand gesture to simulate extra gravity. But it works.
Its just a spring and blob of solder in place of the old switch. Il replace it with something nice when i find it. It looks low in the picture here but its a bit higher now to avoid accidental activation.
As im only getting an extra 10% with the DD I may just put it back to a normally driven torch but with a button I can actually find in the dark now. I am using 4xcg18650 panasonic new batts and wonder if 6xt6 leds are already sucking what they can with or without a driver.
So things I like
1, it doesnt blow up
2, instant on/off and a nice big easy to find button!
I have this flashlight from a month ago(from fasttech) and the only way to get the full power is with at least two batteries samsumg inr 18650 20r because the vf of the leds are really hight
!all leds are in paralel
I have add micro usb chargue
