I’ve never fully understood exactly what makes a CC/CV charge cycle so good in the first place, so I wasn’t sure.
Is it simply that the CC phase protects the cell from overcurrent and CV kicks in once we reach the maximum voltage for the cell? Would a pure CV charger result in anything undesirable other than a slow charge?
All CV would give a faster charge - too fast. Say you start with a resting voltage of 3.6v, if you apply the full charge voltage across it at that point, the cell will accept many many amps. The CC phase is required to limit the current until the difference between the actual cell voltage and desired finish voltage are closer together. Less spread between actual & desired self-limits the current to a safe range, so holding a constant voltage just a tad over the desired full charge voltage until it finishes is fine.
When I manually charge the 4.3v cells starting from 4.2v as they come off the hobby charger, it's all CV as that difference between 4.2 and 4.3 is small enough that limiting the current isn't needed to stay in a 'safe' range. It limits the current on its own.
Duh, brain fart. First I write that CC clamps the current to protect the cell from overcurrent, then I suggest that CV only would be slow…. clearly a lack of thought. Thanks!
Will have to try one of those next :) Just wanted you to know that this has been the best one so far (I've tried a few others). I have used Yiboyuan phone battery chargers for years with my Droid X and now HTC Rezound, no problems with them whatsoever.
FYI:
More small flashlight holsters in stock, along with the butterfly style XM-L emitter spacers.
About the charger, no it isn't the most eloquent solution, but it works great and has been reliable. Besides, this is budget light forum, right? I have been testing it all week long to make sure that it was good to go before announcing it here. None of the other solutions I've tried or looked at up until this were going to be cheap enough to be worth it, to me at least.
Not as easy as that, emitter hole will have to be opened up. I will be doing this in the next couple of weeks, have a project going on to compare apples to apples in a Cree Trifecta using Convoy C8’s as the hosts.
Hey! Been super busy with all the orders and holiday events these past few days, but here are some updates (are either currently up on the site, or will be there in a few hours):
New:
Bare XM-L2 1A LEDs
Bare XM-L2 1D LEDs
Bare XP-G2 R5 3C LEDs
Bare XP-G2 R4 5A1 LEDs (for you warm tint afficionados!)
14mm XM-L2 3C (aluminum star)
XM-L2 T3 7A3 on 16mm and 20mm Noctigon
P60 Bare Dropins - Orange Peel & Smooth Reflectors
20, 24, & 26 AWG Silicone Wire
Arctic Alumina Thermal Compound (14g)
Convoy S3-like host (identical except it doesn't say "Convoy")
Restock:
20mm & 42mm AR Lens
qlite drivers
Plastic 3M Emitter Insulating Gaskets - XP and XM
XP-E2 R4 1C on 16mm Noctigon
XM-L2 T6 3C on 16mm & 20mm Noctigon
XM-L2 T4 5B1 on 16mm & 20mm Noctigon
Probably some other stuff I'm forgetting right now, but that's most of it!
when clicking on the top tab - "Flashlight Hosts" your flashlight hosts are hidden. Some people new to your site might not even see that you have light hosts.
You might consider moving your flashlight hosts under "Flashlights" tab.
and move empty P60 drop-ins under "Components".
Maybe on your Silicone Wire page add an Ampacity Chart like (wiki), since this is one of the more important specs when choosing AWG. ppl should know... what is the recommended max current for a certain wire size.
After-all the site is quickly becoming a modder's haven.