I wanted to make your thread look very long and important. 
Sorry, I didn’t want people to think I was referring to the black srk driver that was also posted. But it does look like the exact same components as the East-092. And I think the lame east-092 accidentaly had a different 2 pin regulator transistor.
Ordered one through chinavally, delivered by Amazon’s epathdirect, but got a Skyray King - no XM-L2’s.
Now Amazon is sending me e-mails, offering me the Securitylng!
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4 versions and 4 prices.
Checking each listing separately, it seems from the description or the pictures that the first is a 4 emitter XM-L
the second is a 3 emitter XM-L2
the third is a 3 emitter Skyray King with XM-L, but the box in the background is for a Securitylng. (this is the one I got)
There is not any discrimination between XM-L and XM-L2, nor between Securitylng and Skyray
This is hopeless…………….
Bought under this item#? http://www.ebay.com/itm/161124048043
Is the seller not willing to yell at Amazon for you? Is there any way to go directly to Amazon, or does having ebay as (another) middleman rule that out?
Mine shipped from 172 Trade St. Lexington KY same as yours, but I got the same light & box as O-L.
I feel bad that dchomak didn't get the light he wanted . Especially since this light after a resistance mod is so badass . Now I feel pretty lucky that I got a good version . If I knew I would get another one like my example , I would order a couple more .
Can't stop playing with this thing .
heh heh ( don't mean to gloat , dchomak )
Knowing now that it's not solely down to which warehouse it ships from, I don't know if that makes me more confident or less confident... crap.
With such an easy mod ability , I'll bet this driver would be a good retrofit for a lot of SRK clones .
Does this essentially turn it into DD? Would there still be a low mode?
Sorry, there is so much on this thread that I don’t understand. 
Yes that is the site. Based on the fact that yours came from the same warehouse, I ordered another. This time I will video record the “unboxing”
My first one did not come in a retail box, but rather a bag with a tag.
They have not sold very many according to this buying history.
Direct drive, through whatever limitation of the other components. Not the same as the battery wired straight to the LED, the components can have a pretty big impact on how close or far it actually is from the numbers it would do if wired direct. Modes still work, high is just the MCU commanding 100% full on, and the other modes are based on a percentage of that, by PWM/duty cycle switching. The average of the on time/off time gives the reduced current/output.
The 3-mode 'Securitying' (SecurityLng? silly ambiguous fonts...) driver isn't perfect by any means but it's better than the standard high-low SRK driver. The PWM on lower modes is still there, but it appears to be about half as severe. The low isn't very low. And it really needs some hot rod cells for there to be a reasonable spread between high and mid, otherwise mid runs at the current the driver calls for but high falls a bit short, and that causes it to look like the mid mode is too high.
I don't know what this thing is pulling on high mode, it's more than my meters are happy with. And that's something I've not run into before.
I'm using the Panasonic NCR18650PF Protected 2900mAh in my light ,they seem to be working fine .
This light does drain these batteries fairly rapidly , though .
I'm using Samsung 20Rs. What I mean is, with plain Samsung 28As, even charged to the full 4.3v, it still does the same 1.5A on low and 6A on medium, but high is only 10A while with the 20Rs it's some large amount higher than that which I'm not able to measure. With non-hot rod cells the high will be too close to what it does on medium.
Typically, good mode spacing is something like 100%-30%-3% to look 'normal', this driver is programmed more like 100-50-25%.
I just ordered two more, for, um, 'research'. Yeah, that's it.
Any thoughts about getting the driver to work with 8.4v? Eight IMR 18350s? :evil:
What's tracking showing on yours? Mine's weird - didn't originate from KY like before. USPS says:
January 3, 2014 , 8:40 pm |
Arrived Shipping Partner Facility |
COMPTON, CA 90220 |
January 4, 2014 , 5:19 am |
COMPTON, CA 90220 |
If they're in bags like your first one, and not in the 'Securitying' boxes, I'm not even opening the bags.
This is getting weirder each time. At least the bag my first one came in was clear on one side. It is possible to see what is inside before it is opened. I don’t have a good feeling about this…………
On the other hand, I was the only one who received a Skyray. Perhaps as long as a “Securitylng” is shipped we are going to be OK.
Oh yeah I forgot about this, but I didn't get a tracking number in the 'Your item is marked as shipped' email from Ebay. But go to your purchase history page, and there will be a tracking number shown there. No idea why it wasn't in the email.
Another thread I missed while away enjoying myself. Wow. I’m glad you dont live in my neighbourhood comfychair. We have total fire bans on at the moment. Your Securitying Flashlighter is the last thing we need here setting the bush on fire. Nice light.
This time it came in the retail box, not a bag. And it is a “Securitylng”
But it’s an XM-L, not the XM-L2 I was hoping for.
Securitylng on left, FandyFire Warrior on right, next 2 pics.
In the above pic, the color of the Warrior is a little “warmer” than the Securitylng, but the Warrior is far from warm. In fact it is a little too cool to my liking. So guess how I feel about the color of this Securtylng?
I think it may have the easy to mod driver. High - Medium - Low with hidden SOS and strobe.
The Medium is too close to the High for my liking, but maybe that is also the kick down brightness when it gets too hot.
And lastly, even though it does not appear to be the case in the pic above, it is noticeably dimmer on high than the Warrior. This even though it is cooler, usually the cooler light will look brighter in a side by side.
I think that if I try and drive it harder, it will run even cooler still. So what would be the point?
Conclusion: Very disappointed.
This light is what it is, or whatever they decide to send you. That’s the bottom line.
McDonalds Hamburgers, largest resturant chain in the whole world. Their success is based on consistency. You can go into any restaurant and get the exact same lousy hamburger. There is something to be said for that.
The driver is seriously weak in stock form, it has two resistors in the path to the LEDs instead of actual regulation via switching or however most modern drivers do it. Reserve judgement until you've bypassed those silly resistors, just move the LED+ wire across to the other side. Leave the stock skinny 2-wire setup in place if you leave the stock LEDs on the stock AL MCPCB.
If you swap in copper boards and separate wiring for each LED, you will need some seriously badass cells to get a good spread between high & mid. I just tried again to get a current reading from mine and failed, with the meter in the circuit it only reads around 9.5A but if I short the BAT- direct to ground and bypass the meter, it jumps up about double the light output. So I'm guessing it's got to be 15-16 amps. I can get good reliable readings using only one cell at a time, from one 20R it does 8.85A!
I got this one, it is the 4x U2 model — same driver (haven’t opened it yet)
No, not the same driver, look at the group of 7 vias on the 3x version, the 4x looks to have 2 or 3 single vias spaced out around the board. Rip that sucker out and get some pics of the naughty bits.