That specific SW45 tint has a color temperature that ranges from 4260K to 4745K, so based on that alone you cannot have a pure neutral white as the words imply.
Wow pretty big range. I guess mine ended up on the low end of that 
I’ll email going gear and ask if a replacement if possible. If not oh well. Still better than any other led I have had. I have a NW D40A on the way so guess I’ll see how the tints compare.
Would be nice if it had atleast 1 lower mode. It isn’t too usefull with just the high because it overheats really fast. Cant use it for more than a few min. Have to let it cool down.
I might try putting some aluminum foil or maybe some arctic silver to help with heat transfer.
Define 'overheats' - if you mean it gets hot in your hand, improving the heat transfer between the dropin and the body will make it get hot in your hand quicker. Which is good for the LEDs and the light output. The quicker the outside of the light gets hot, the cooler the LEDs will be running.
Color temp alone doesn't tell you much, look how the color temp changes as you move up-down on this chart...
p.s. Thanks for not allowing hotlinking, flashlightwiki! :angry:
Not so worried about it getting hot in my hand.
More worried about the driver or emitters cooking inside !!!
On an upper post tried saying that with the whole 4A-4D tints coverage
I asked because they don’t specify on their website.
Would have been cool if they used their eagletac output groups like on the D25 etc.
That's only really possible if the outside doesn't get hot. I test little tube lights running at over 4 amps by dropping in a freshly charged battery, switching it on, and letting it run on high until the driver's low voltage protection kicks in an hour later. They still work afterwards.
I guess mine has a bit more 4A, 4D than 4B 4C
In real life it is pretty close to the 4R, 4U and 5R. Really pink with a hint of purple.
Amp draw?
Just keep in mind that at that temperature pure white in true sense of the word is not possible. You need to go to around 5500K for that but there are no real acceptable CRI for that on the market except XB-D 3C from IOS
You see purely white pictures of Nichia 219AT 4500k CRI92 Beamshots because the white balance in the camera is changeable. This LED is known for pinkish light and that is no reason for sending it back.
Yup you are right I think. My galaxy note 2’s camera sees it as pure white and doesn’t pick up any pink. Overall it’s still far better than the ugly green so it’s all good.
Just updated with images. I will get outdoor shots when it gets dark.
About 2 amps using a single 18650
If that is a buck driver, the output is a bit higher than the input. I wouldn't see Eagletac using linear drivers, but who knows.
Sportaclight.com says:
C3000 LED driver
Sportac P60 LED Dropin uses highly efficient synchronous buck current regulated circuit that controls the precious amount of current that goes through the LED
This results in constant brightness output regardless of LED variation, battery voltage, and temperature change. We utilize low RDS (on) high power external mosfets, rugged & shielded power inductor, low ESR tantalum capacitors, and low resistance 2 oz copper PCB for maximum efficiency. This also lower required input voltage to current regulate the LED at maximum output when the battery voltage is near the LED forward voltage (i.e. longer regulated runtime with single li-ion battery).
Whatever that means lol
I’ll measure again with the good meter later. This old one has no leads so I used some thin wires. Might be affecting the number.
The number will actually drop a bit if you know use thicker and shorter leads (which you should anyway) at the same identical cell voltage as you measured before. If the driver sees more voltage doesn't need to draw as much current, since I see we are talking about buck regulation and that is how it should be while the battery is got more than 50% capacity left and it's a good cell (not to enter in a lof of details but regarding how the Vin should be over the Vf of the LED, etc)
Yea the pink is normal and I wouldn’t go through a return. All of my 7 nichia have been slightly rosy. When in use and not in comparison to other lights, the rosy tint is unnoticeable.
these are very nice looking drop ins but it needs at a minimum a low (15-50 lumen) mode in addition to the regular high only mode.