Modding? a Boruit Z001 - Problem Solved - the build is FINISHED. Beam shots are up too! 10,000 Ebay Lumens! LOL

Reserved

High resistance short on the bottom PCB (switchplate PCB)? I’ve circle two places below where solder spills across onto a nearby trace - maybe the mask was damaged slightly in one of those areas?

Wow, 7 XM-Ls in parallel @ 3A is ambitious I’d say! 21A is going to be very hard to obtain from any driver I’m aware of, are you thinking of doing direct drive? Otherwise wiring the LEDs in series and keeping the batteries in series with a good boost driver might be a better way to go. While an expensive driver, HBFlex could probably do it… it has a maximum 7A input which with 3 good quality 18650 batteries (IMR or NCR18650PD) should be achievable.

Yeah, I thought about that too… as OL says, 3A is what the customer asked for, not what is practical or usable. Boost is a good suggestion IMO. Assuming a 3.6v vF, that’s a wattage of 75.6. TaskLED docs indicate maybe 90%-95% efficiency. You’re looking at pulling around 80-84W from the batteries… The highest current will be at the bottom end of the discharge (say 2.8v per cell). At that point you’re looking at 10A per cell. IMR’s or Panasonic PD’s / PF’s should be able to do that… so electrically it’s doable in series 0:). In parallel, less so: that’s at least 7A per cell and still assuming a 3.6v vF at 3 amps… with an AMC7135 based driver it might maintain 3A per emitter for 2 minutes?

The solder was just from me wiping all the solder off the contacts, to show everything more clearly.

Not one driver, 7 drivers. Seven NANJG drivers. Yes, there is room.

3 Parallel of the highest rated unprotected 18650s ought to do the amps... for about 30 seconds.

That’s what I thought when I first read OL’s OP, taskled driver. Maybe series might be the easier and more achievable with 3 amps to each led. The taskled drivers are in a class by themselves, and the price reflects that I guess. I would be for using the HBflex and batteries in series, but I have learned to never under estimate the modding ability of OL. :bigsmile:

I understand. So the 0.6v you measured was between the aluminum and brass contacts on the top of the carrier, right? My money is still on a short on the battery side of the bottom board. You didn’t show how you bridged the contacts, possibly a really high resistance short from that? If you want something to try you could re-assemble the carrier with the two contacts marked below aligned with each other. Cleanup the wiped solder, put springs back on, put the switch back on, and see what you get - you only need to install an 18650 between the marked contacts of course.

If you are checking for a short in the low ohms range on your meter (like 200), switch to a high range (20M or something).

The spots in Yellow, were where I tested voltage.

The spots in purple were where I made the bridges, with copper sheet.

I tested each battery one at a time and the two marked in Red showed voltage leakage, but the third one showed correctly, with no voltage with the switch off, so it's got to be something about the two.

OL: are you saying you did that single-cell testing on your initial assembly with the bridges (before tearing it down for pics), or have you re-assembled the carrier at this point?

I did single cell testing originally, with the bridges. I only tore it down to be able to take better photos.

Wait, 7 NANJGs… WOAH! :open_mouth:

This is gonna be interesting.

8)

The OP is updated. The battery holder problem is solved.

Well. What was it?

I do not know, now it works. As I said, I removed the copper film below the areas I marked. All I can think of, if that the current was jumping through the layer somehow, but that's hard to believe. Once I removed the copper under the top coat and put everything back, it works, but I can't give a definite reason for the change. All I did was make sure that there was nothing in the path of the jumpers and nothing close to the spring. That area around the one spring was cleared away, because that pad is smaller than the other two. It was a positive pad and the others were negative. The spring was larger than the pad, but the area around it was coated. It shouldn't have mattered.

Glad you’re back in business OL. The resist layer isn’t perfect - I sometimes stab a multimeter probe straight through it to get a reading.

Worked on the contact plate today. Photos in the OP. Won't have parts till late in the week, so the week-end will be when I finish the build.

Finished and Beam shots are up. See the OP.

Looks like an amazing personal defense weapon. :bigsmile:

Wonder how crazy strobe would look!

LMAO I seriously can’t stop laughing, that is just INSANE!!! Wow, would love to see that in person. Very good work, really hope the owner is happy, I know I would be!