I suggest you use a cheapie AA torch for a while, and figure out what you need to spend to get a few good batteries (I guess 18650s) and an appropriate charger - and then find a flashlight that will serve your purposes.
You budget at the moment will cover a few good batteries and a charger, or a good flashlight - but you would be doing well to get both.
First is able to run on any AA batteries. very good price on two nitecore chargers that can be used for NiMH or lithium so if you decide on different battery chemistry this will be useful as you will only need one charger for what ever chemistry you choose. The convoy lights are a good light in the 18650 format, and a quality protected 18650 for good price. Good prices and fast shipping from quality vendor.
I was going with one battery and didn’t know the charger was out of stock. Have bought 2 headlamps from IS and the shipping was only about 3 dollars for me and I’m on the east coast. Buy these , sell the other 3 for $7 each to make your money back and you can use that until you save a little more money.
Yes, I want to repair my old light with new components. I’m just really new to this so I need to learn the basics about drivers and emitters and how to wire them. I have been reading around but there are so many links and so many options I just don’t know where to start.
I ordered this how did I do?
I went over my budget about $20-$25 if I’m willing to spend $40 on an OK quality light I might as well spend an extra $20 for a far better light.
Thank you guys for all the great recommendations. I do plan on buying more lights and saving money ordering from china sellers. I would like to use my old light that’s broken as a donor and order parts and build my own light from scratch.
I read a greatly written post on this a while back but have no clue how to find it again
The switch is easy just try a paperclip to go from battery to body and see if it lights
The LED is trickier, but if you have a multimeter with diode test try it on the LED, it will only light up with a faint glow so do it in a not very brightly lit room. You can also try a resistance check on the switch
Circuitry is harder, you can try measuring LED voltage with the light on see if its getting anything, since you only have one light you can’t try other circuits on it
Also make sure your battery is not dead, what you have now is known for being junk, you can try 3AA batteries in series, that will light the LED, just not super bright for super long (NiMH is better, alkalines don’t do high current well). You can also use 2 alkalines or 3 nimh to test just the led, wire them in series, they can’t put out enough current to damage it.
The battery voltage should indicate its charge (but those junk batteries sometimes give high voltage when they are dead), less then 2.5V get rid of the battery and never try to use it again (it could explode), 2.8-3V is dead, 3.8V is about 40% charge, and 4.2V is filly charged.
Out of what you have the battery is the weakest link, the charger is the next weakest,then the switch and circuitry, its unlikely the body would be the problem, and its highly unlikely the LED is toast, Cree LEDs are almost bulletproof
The light you bought is very throwy, the batteries are good quality and the charger is widely used by many BLFers who apparently have no problems with it
Protected would be better, if it got shorted in a toolbox it would prevent catastrophic failure, but as long as you know how to use li ion batteries safely you won’t have any problems, i have no protected and have used hundreds of li ion charges of flashlighting.
This hold an 18650 very effectively http://www.walmart.com/ip/Coleman-Match-Holder/13848642
I think its the driver, or the switch. The LED emitter lights up when hooked up straight to the battery. The battery voltage is around 4.0v - 4.1v. Can you provide me links to where I can find replacement parts for that light? HWAWTS UltraFire XML-T6 This is my first post with pic of the light I have.
What diameter is the driver?
17mm is the easiest to replace, some lights have 18 or 20mm.
You should be able to yank out the switch, many lights have a metal retaining ring holding it in, unscrew that and push the parts out hte front, if you can post a pic i bet someone will be able to recommend a better quality one.
Do try bypassing the switch with a paperclip to see if that is whats wrong with the light first
I’m not sure what size, the lights at work and I’m out for the next 2 days. I’ll be sure to try bypassing the switch and I’ll keep you posted. When I get the chance I’ll make another posting out with pics and questions on how to upgrade or bring back my old light from the dead.
I was also thinking of getting a really floody head lamp or any super floody light that pocketable. Do you know where I should start looking?
head lamps i know nothing about, for floody pocket lights i use a convoy s2, it overheats quickly and is probably about as long as your broken light but it works well, it has a hotspot but is still quite floody
Send Richard a message and you can switch to the same batteries with high quality protection. He even lists his phone number. Mtnelectronics contact.
Li-ions were not intended to be used without protection. Battery manufacturers say protection is required on li-ions. People are just use to taking the extra risk with unprotected because quality protection use to be excessively expensive before mntelectronics, unless you ran into a great sale. Little reason to go unprotected anymore for most users.
For a headlight they also have headband flashlight holders. $4 basic one. The nitecore HB02 has a top mount that can be slid forward or back to adjust the angle. When you don’t need a headlight you can just use the flashlight normally & keep the headband in a pocket.