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Thats what I do all the time ... led-tech.de offers most LEDs but doesn't offer great bins at all.

I just checked it and Cutter has XP-G2 S2 2B. But there was a thread on CPF, only two posts haha and the person was confused and said the page on cutter was not accurate etc.
Really, can’t they come up with a new/newer product in such a way that it is believable for people? List and show a photo of the reel with code.

Otherwise, anyone can sell XP-G9 Z9 CRI99 J) No biggie in Asia to do so. Big deal in EU where you get fined for such things.

Kinda like how the only appearance of the XML2 U3 so far has been in $12 C8s? lol

Has anyone bought any emitters from dealer: Simon / BLF user convoy-flashlight yet? Im considering buying 50 XM-L2 T6-1A on 20mm mcpcb’s but not sure if they are the real deal. I started a thread here but havent received any replies yet.

Here’s his Aliexpress store link for the emitters.

His Aliexpress store is Shenzhen Great Wall Technology Co., Ltd. Store No.330416

Eagletac use Nicha 219A B11 bin or XP-G2 S2 bin in their MX25L3. First seller I saw. Im skeptical to KD no matter what they sell.


Ive bought varius emitters from the aliexpress seller in the past. Seemed good to me. But I did not buy any XM-L2 T6 1A (nor would I consider buying them).

Im quite sure several people here have bought T6 1A from him in the past. Hopefully someone can share their experience.

If you just want cheap CW XM-L(1), then there is probably many here who can sell them very cheap (Spare emitters laying around due to upgrades).


Thanks for the feedback Race. Im after the 1A for its exceptionally high contrast and clarity while moving at high speeds. Im guessing you wouldn’t consider 1A because you dont like the tint? :bigsmile: I can get 50 pcs L2 for $3 ea on 20mm pads so its a fair deal. I actually prefer the higher vF of L2 for the build Im planning.

I think I have bought 15x XM-L2 U2 1A (on Noctigon) within the last 2-3 months. XM-L2 U2 1A is actually the emitter I have bought the highest quantity off. But I mostly buy it for the purpose of de-doming, mixing with other emitters (domed or de-domed) or if someone just want a bright "wow" light from me. Im not much of a (domed) 1A user, gotta admit that.

My "philosopy" is either way that when I do a build and use a lot of time and money on it, I don't bother saving a little bit in order to not get the top of the line bin. And since im using copper mcpcbs in basically all my lights, it does not make much sense to buy T6 on alu + bare Noctigon when I can get U2 mounted on Noctigon for a good price from a source that is reliable, credible, and with good customer support for pretty much the same price, if not just marginally more.

You project sounds interesting and I can see that you have different needs and preferences compared to me. Will there be a build thread or something? :)

I keep over 50 L2’s on noctigon’s on hand for local customer flashlight builds (U2-1A, U2-1C, T6-3C) and also follow your philosophy for flashlight applications. But Im also well aware of the huge disparity between what impresses the light meter versus what impresses the human eyes. Then there’s the reality of practicality & usefulness for something that will remain on for extended periods of time and must be reliable and useable to those that use them for more than 10 minutes continuously.

Im planning a large light bar for a pickup and a landing light array for an aircraft. I dont need copper since the sinks will be massive for the truck and active for the aircraft. Im more concerned with the correct bin/tint to achieve the anticipated performance. They will be driven at 3A by a custom built driver designed to handle the spikes generated by an alternator. In a few years, the emitters will be ripped out and replaced with something better while the old ones are relegated to garage down-lighting arrays. If I could get 50 copper L2 1A-U2’s @$2.50-3.50 ea, Id go that route, but it would be overkill for this. If Im in the ballpark, please let me know.

Its going to take a while to gather parts, complete some field studies and have some machine work completed, but should make for some interesting build threads to help others try for themselves. I have yet to find a build thread that shows how to put together a reliable true 20 & 40K lumen light bar, so this might be the one. Converting Chinese light bars are a complete no-go, considering the amount of heat sinking required and their overall poor design and horrible thermal path. To bad, because that would have taken nearly all the pain (fun) out of the build.

The dielectric layer in the Al boards is the killer, no matter what they're mounted on.

Now why did you have to go and ruin my fun? :wink: In the ceiling down-light I threw together (8 x cheap XML in series), the difference between 2.6A and 3A to the eyes is very negligible, but it certainly generates a lot more heat at the higher setting. I know that surface brightness will come to play in determining ultimate range for the light bar. But take a stock BTU shocker afield and compare high to turbo at the threshold if its max range. Its a noticeable change to the eyes, but certainly now worth the extra 1.8A to get there. (3.6A on Turbo, 1.8A on High). Well shoot… I guess I should rethink this for the extra 100 lumens per emitter. :Sp I hate you guys!!! :smiley:

I get most of my Noctigons through Hank, but he wouldnt offer a discount above what his system offers. Any ideas who might be the best to approach for a qty of 50?

Or, the same amount of light at less current (and therefore less waste heat). 2.8A on Al is about equal to 2.5A on copper.

Hi all :slight_smile:
It is my first post on this great forum. I added this Cree XP-E2 90+ CRI on SinkPAD II aluminum PCB

I also found some Cree XT-E 80+ CRI bare and mounted on SinkPAD II from the same seller but I don’t know how to add it to the sheet.

Cheers,
Simon

Welcome to blf! Nice find, have not seen any xpe2 for sale in high cri. Californian seller, pity that they don't ship to Europe (well, they do for 22 dollars, bit steep for 1or 2 leds)

Does anyone have a US source for bare (but I could deal with mounted) XP-E R2’s with the EZ900 die?

Sorry for not updating much. Tendonitis in the hand is not helping. Limited amount of new stuff in the last months it seems, except a few emitters that have been talked about in various threads.

If anyone know of something of importance. Feel free to just post about it if you don't want to add it.

Some of the sheets had been messed up a little bit, so I did a recovery and manually added two emitters akelly and MustSimon had added. Thanks to people who continue contributing. :) Sorry if I missed emitters others have updated/fixed/added.

Added some stuff that have been mentioned in this thread:

XM-L2 U2 4C, 12-16mm have been added from FT. Around 4,75$. Not sure if anyone have verified if these were fake yet. I have one of these emitters, but I have not tried it yet..

XM-L2 T4 7B4, mounted on Noctigon 16/20mm from IOS, 6,98$

XM-L2 T6 4D, mounted on Noctigon 16/20mm from IOS, 6,98$

XP-G2 S2 2B, mounted on Noctigon 16/20mm from IOS, 3,98$

Im not adding these now, but just a reminder of lots of interesting LEDs at Kaidomain. (You guys feel free to add them too).

Cheap XP-G2 S2 triple. XP-G2 4C triple, Nichias...

http://kaidomain.com/category.227

kaidomain xpg2 s2 1a are real deal ?

Hi all,

Firstly I would like to thanks RaceR86 for fixing the spreadsheet. Hope your hand will get well soon

I just found that http://www.cutter.com.au/index.php now has Nichia NVSL219B R85 emitters, bare and mounted on aluminum MCPB 10mm, 20mm, triples on 20mm, 32mm and etc. One just have to type: nichia 219b on Cutter's search page.

I also found this link: http://eepurl.com/Rm8x1 posted by dsche in fonarevka forum, link: http://forum.fonarevka.ru/showthread.php?p=497494#post497494 (I hope he doesn't mind I post it here). It's from Cutter mailing list. It compares the spectral perfomance of Nichia 219A vs 219B. It's interesting that these new Nichia NVSL219B has CCT of 5015K, CRI of 91, and outputting 260 lumens at 700mA.

I hope RaceR86 would help to add these to the spreadsheet. Thanks in advance bro

What cutter does not say what id the brightness bin and voltage bin for these Nichia LEDs.

The SW45 should 4745K-4260K. Can really Nichia sell a 4745K-4260K that turns out to be 5015K or that is a SW50 (which does not appear in the Nichia datasheet at R85 CRI)

EDIT they say ordered SW45, 4500K and result show 5015K. Inetersting.

I prefer 4500K more than 5000K+

I’ll add the cutter 219B R85.

I’m happy to add other things you guys find. Just perhaps post it & mark “help adding” or something similar. Usually when I see something posted here I forget that they might not have added it to the spreadsheet.