is the lens coated?
I ordered one last week.Like yours but at 4.5 amps….not as brave I guess!I am very excited about this light….until Richard gets the BTU shockers in!His shop really is turning into THE flashoholic shop for the US!
Lens isn't needed - the stock bezel o-ring seals to the TIR, and putting a glass lens in front screws with the beam pattern.
I think that the reason for the way the beam is is that the Carclo 10507 optic is slightly mismatched with XP-G2. I found a thread over on CPF awhile ago discussing that.
I know you said that you have 16 7135s and are using 20R battery, but have you measured current at either the tailcap or going to the emitters? Just curious about that.
Thanks,
Jim
Outside of the flashlight it pulled just shy of 6 amps on a fresh 20R... I don't recall the in flashlight test (don't have my notes by me) but it wasn't too far behind.
RAW74: It isn't too late to crank it up a notch! I built your driver last night but haven't installed it yet... 
I am tempted but I’m sure 4.4 amps will be amazing enough?I will also end up using this for several min. on high at camp, probably not in the best frame of mind to know when to step it down.What does a melting optic smell like anyways?On another note, when do you think the protected 3400’s will be in?Or the BTU shockers?Or the……
Sorry, I get excited about all the new projects you have for your store.I hope you had a great Holiday Richard, and look out for that Garry Bunk fellow.He will have you spending too much time bothering Homedepot employies! 
Comfy, what does the lens do to the beam pattern?
Does it affect just the XPG2 or other LEDs as well?
I read somewhere that the interface between lens and the optics changes the beam significantly. No first hand experience sorry.
It seems to act like if you made the front face of the TIR thicker, makes the spot bigger, more spread out (hold a magnifying lens in front of a regular flashlight, same effect). The 10507 has little inverted cups/divot-things in the centers, a lens doesn't affect that one as much as the others with flat faces, like 10508 & 10511. 10511 has a nice small spot and a smooth outer corona, a lens really makes that one look not so nice. Without a lens it's the closest of the 20mm optics to a single LED in a conventional reflector.
edit: A lens does the same thing to single-LED TIRs as well, it's not specific to anything with these triples or any certain LED.
Thanks for the information. I will for sure check the alignment.
I think was talking about the emitter type (i.e. XP-G2 vs. XP-E2). The lens is locked into alignment by the alignment tabs on the lens/MCPCB so you really can't change that.
Appreciate the info comfy.
I have a triple 10507 coming soon and will try and remove lens to see if I like it better.
Btw, I can’t believe the price of these RMM versions only $55 for a custom made triple!!
That is true I guess Richard. The beam pattern is very different from what I usually see with my other lights. That is very interesting and refreshing!
The listed price is definitely a very good one. Just list all parts you need for this and add them up…
Yes, that’s correct. The 10507 was designed for the XP-G, but the beam angle (or whatever it’s called) for the XP-G2 is slightly different than for the XP-G, which apparently causes this. From what I’ve read, it’s only visible close up though, like on white walls :)…
But, ack, you made me look “over there”, to find the link:
Jim
My resistance broke down in less than a day. Now I have an order for a similar light, but with the 10508 lens for a more traditional beam pattern.
You are welcome for that! 
I am also thinking to get a 10508 in the next order from Richard.
Richard, is it easy to swap the optics? I haven’t tried to open it.
for mod did the light has another pill ? since the stock pill if for 16mm pcb led.
It's not too bad, although the S3 is a bit harder since you have to work through the battery tube. To remove, start by loosening the bezel then work from the bottom, you will need something long and pointy so that you can grab onto the solder blobs on the edge of the pill. Be extra careful not to hit the 7135s, the added ones will bend or rip off if you put too much force on them. The pill will leave through the lens side, not the body. When you reinstall, thread enough so that the bezel is putting a decent amount of pressure on the whole assembly when tightened. You will need to hold the pill in place while you tighten the bezel. It shouldn't be a problem, but try not to twist the wires more than necessary.
[quote=nofearek9] for mod did the light has another pill ? since the stock pill if for 16mm pcb led. [/quote]
It is the stock pill that has been solder filled then sanded down. The triple MCPCB has another bare triple MCPCB flowed onto it for more thermal mass and to take up some of the extra space.
I noticed the bezel was very tight. Could not screw it off easily.
Actually I just managed to unscrew the bezel off. And I got the optics out easily. It seems not necessary to mess with the pill to swap the optics, right? Just remove the bezel, take out the old optics, and put the new one in. Are you talking about changing the emitters too?
Also I did notice the pill will rotate along with the optics when I tighten the bezel, but not a lot.
Thanks Richard!
lot of work but nice mod.