I’m not sure either, but if the size is correct, I guess this one can fit Tang’s C8.
41 x 37mm OP reflector
This is the measurements in the openings post:
The reflector is smooth aluminium, 35 mm deep and 40mm wide
Hope that helps
USD21! I rather spend on brand new Convoy C8 
Measurement is right. I think it will fit in. Thanks.
It is probably the inner measurement.
I posted the measurements in post #88, using a caliper. The KD one is the closest.
Could someone please answer my questions? I’ve got some desoldering wik that is about 1,5/2 mm width. Would that be enough?
What kind of wire should I use to improve current flow to the led?
I personally wouldn’t bother with it for this particular light, but to upgrade other lights I use 2mm wik and 22 awg silicone wire.
Doing both those things - copper braiding the springs and beefing up the wires can be dangerous territory of amps, depending on the battery of course. But for solder wick copper braid, I use 1 mm. I find the 1.5 mm too heavy, thick to work with, but maybe it's tougher - will hold up better. For wires, I use 22 gauge or 24 gauge silicone coated, but prefer 22 gauge if the wire thickness is not too much in the way of seating the reflector. mtnelectronics.com is a great source for wires. Before RMM's store, I bought from RC Hobby I believe.
The solder wick I use is this: fasttech - 1.0mm. It's cheap stuff. I soak the piece first with isopropyl alcohol to remove residues.
That will help me on my way for my first mod! Thanks alot guys!
To bad I’m situated in Northern Europe and not the USA. Seems it is really alot harder to come by decent electronic parts, wires and tools here. But I’m going to try my luck at a R/C store.
I was planning to run it on either on a protected panasonic or a protected trustfire flame. It was my understanding that these batteries are not able to supply the amount of ampere that would take it anyware near the dangerzone (wich would be 4 to 5 amps I guess?). But then, I am a total newb when it comes to modding flashlights. So if I’m doing anything stupid, please tell me!
I do think the C8 I got is underdriven, given its performance compared to the beamshots earlyer in this tread. But I do still have to test the light with a fully charged panasonic as soon as my new charger arrives.
and one good charger you go better
Yes - all true. Should be ok with a regular protected Panasonic or TrustFire. Forgot, but you may be in the low 3A's with those cells, so may be less bright than the pics.
I have an off-topic question here. I remember the Lightmalls C8 was discussed a lot here before and its driver was known with direct-drive in high, is that true? If it is, how would this Tangsfire C8 compared with the Lightmalls C8?
I got mine yesterday. Max I can get is 2.6A on both protected and unprotected pannies.
Mine S2 draws more - 2.8A lol…. I was hoping to get at least 3.6A. Well, still not bad for price. Do you guys think the only way to incrase amps is by changing driver, right?
That's pretty weird. Just checked mine on Pana protected and unprotected and got 3.5A.
Both are direct drive. I think they are comparable. Got the stock TF C8, but got an old LM C8 heavily mod'ed though.
Mine came last week and it throw better than my Convoy L4 :bigsmile:
Got 3.5 on mine on a Pd also.
Try this,
EDIT; Ignore this part, my mistake, it does not like to be reversed, Sorry Unscrew the body tube and reverse it, screw it back in tight and then measure the amp draw again. If it increases it will be because it is getting a better ground path.
Clean the threads with some CRC 2-26 or an equivalent and reassemble.
If no difference, hold battery on spring with no tube, press one DMM wire to negative end of battery and put other DMM wire down to the driver ground ring area and see what amp draw is. This will at least troubleshoot the electrical losses of the tube connection, if any.
Then if the amps aren’t 3.5 or so, braid the driver spring.
HTH
Keith
Gain a little bit of amp (2.7>3.3A), after cleaning the inner screw threads of driver and its retaining ring.