Mod: (Updated!) YinHex YH-X9 5xT6 4x18650 Flashlight: Pocketable 45W Wall of Light

Very nice relic38. Your creativity really shines through here. Thanks for sharing this with us.

Hi Relic, how I admire your level of skill :open_mouth:

It seems Apex 5T6 doesn’t share the same driver board with YinHex, any other option to help me get rid of low PWM ?

I also willing to learn to program MCU, but I do not have any idea to start :slight_smile: thanks ~

Nice thread and build.
Great work/info on checking emitter plate temp vs temp on the head.

subscribed . This will be a beast when finished!

Hmm, that looks like the typical driver that’s in these lights. It has a similar design to the SRK without the separate coil per LED. I don’t know if these can be reprogrammed. You can probably adjust the current with a resistor mod. I see four resistors on the left that look suspiciously like current sense resistors. They are in a strange location though, so I’m not sure. My driver was (sort-of) glued in so it took a little persuasion to get it out. Can you get a couple of close-ups of the board, close enough to read part numbers?
On a side-note, I see they really did a nice job with the thermal contact on your LED plate; they really got that adhesive on there good :Sp

I don’t really mind output of this Apex, just the low PWM, I’m kinda sensitive to low PWM :bigsmile:

As for the heatsink compound, I dab it when the first time I opened it.

I still put a few more dabs around the rim just now when I closed it.

wow, relic, we are certainly birds of a feather - that’s a whole lot of work to do to a light. I know the feeling though - once you get the light, and think of how it COULD be done….it MUST be done lol

For the $46.00 I got one also as a host. Stripped all the components off the board and replaced everything with 5 10x7135 drivers, slaved. Cut traces and rewired LED board accordingly.

I really like the looks of this light.

Rich

I acknowledge the 1-up… 17.5A wow! I’m not sure how much brighter that would be, but wow!
Edit: OK, this is what I want to do when I get the heatsink fixed. Definitely. Got any pics?
Did you do anything on the optics side to help with the losses due to the reflector gasket and bezel?
I have a small update I hope to post tonight regarding that.

I added optical and tailcap mods to the review.
What remains is a much larger task of fixing the heatsinking problem. If all goes well there will be a solution to this soon enough :wink:

How about a good link for the lens? Only leads to a thread, couldn’t find it.

Now I have to go get some suicide blades for the X-Acto and have at the rubber. I already resoldered the switch.

I didn’t braid the springs; I use IMR’s and the thing gets hot real fast, so I don’t think I have a heat transfer problem, but the XML’s in mine are a horrible tint. Not gonna spend 50-60 for new emitters and have to reflow 5 of them!

Thanks for this! We’ve thought along the same lines.

Rich

WOW! That's a lot of work and well done. That many wires would scare me off, LOL. Great mod!

?

The lens link goes to the original post that has the link in it. It doesn’t matter though; they are all gone and the seller cannot get any more.
I strongly recommend you braid the springs; you will fall out of regulation quicker without that mod.
Thanks O-L, it has been a fun mod. I have some more to do, the most difficult for me; machining. Wires and tiny components; no problem.

After read relic38 mod on this YinHex YH-X9 & Old-Lumens on the FandyFire / SRK King king mod, that inspired me to follow the steps to mod my Apex 5T6.

Mainly because the original driver has annoying low PWM that I sensitive to.

Here goes :-

Out the driver

Before . . .

After. . . clear off the original components, wicked & clean with denatured alcohol.

The Master & Slave

Set to three modes, typical Low, Mid & High, not really going high current drive, just a shy of twenty 7135 chips. (350mA x 20 = 7000mA, 5 LEDs in Parallel, so each get 1,400mA in theory, also my first time stacked it & worked! :open_mouth: ) due to the limited thermal transfer path from the mcpcb to the head. I also did the added braid or wick wire to the springs.

Well that just about for it, retrace the positive and negative path on the original plate, connect with big wire for current. clean off the adhesive residue on the rim where the driver sit & the driver plate, dab some Dunlop glue & put it back all together with batteries in it to add some push for the glue, test three modes runs perfectly ! Let it sit overnight babe ~ :bigsmile:

Thanks to relic38, Old-Lumens as well as other modders ! Hurray BLF ~

iron potato. Do you know how many people on this forum, if they attempted this mod would have success? Not many. Job well done.

Thank you MRsDNF :beer:

I bend those 7135 chip tiny pins, thin angled soldering iron tip, wick wire, tweezer, soldering 3rd hand & flux helps ~ oh ya, afterward remember to clean it with denatured alcohol :smiley:

looks like you have a stack of space inside the head for improving the pill. Can you find any places that sell alu rod in a matching diameter? You could then ask them to cut you some slices off (I think Old Lumens did this for his Mag heatsinks - ask him :laughing:, then drill 3-4 holes through the PCB where there aren’t any traces and tap the piece of alu rod so you can screw it all together with some thermal paste in between. Hopefully you’ll be able to get the right sized piece of rod, if not you can go a little undersize and wrap it with copper. Should make quite a difference in heat sag and thermal transfer.

Thanks for the heads up mattthemuppet, I might try my luck at machinery shop to ask them turn a piece for me :wink: lovin it without the annoying low PWM now :heart_eyes:

My light, cheap XM-L2 version had different driver. Easy to resistor mod to 10-12A. Stock was 3,9A.

Same hollow body. :Sp And super crappy screws, some even missing. Well secured tailcap, probably glued. Here is how I easily got mine off:

Unscrewed all four screws at the back. Put in two long screws (about 3 cm). Put the two screws in the vise. Two strap wrenches.. Not a scratch and great leverage.