Just another Copper Smoothie scratch build It's Done, with beam shots

Probably thinking about a 2nd. Annual BLF scratch made contest, has made me decide to do another copper light. I haven't done one in a while.

Sometimes I think the most fun builds are ones that I have made out of Copper pipe and fittings. Of course, they are usually the most trouble as well. This one will be no exception to the rule.

It staredt out as some 1" and 3/4" copper fittings and some 1" copper pipe, with a P60 drop in and an XM-L of some flavor. The "head" is a 1" copper coupling and a P60 reflector is too small to fit tight, so I have to use something to shim the diameter of the pipe. A 28mm lens fits right in a 1" coupling, but it has to be held in and the list goes on. Nothing really fits well and it all has to be shimmed and coaxed to fit.

I wanted the brass base that holds the led and driver, to be tight to the ID of the 1" coupling. That resulted in a bunch of cutting and soldering. In the mess shown in the photos above and below, are pieces of 1" coupling and some pieces of copper sheet, to make the OD tight in the ID of the head. Of course, there's a lot of fitting and trial and error to get the OD just right and it might not look pretty, but I have a ways to go in finishing it up.

The 28mm lens is in place and it can't be taken out without desoldering it. The ring holding it in was another thin piece of 1" coupling that was split and sized to fit inside the head and hold the lens in.

The inside shows some copper sheet that makes the diameter for the reflector to sit in and it is against the bottom of the lens, so the lens is sandwiched in. The reflector will go up in and touch the lens from underneath.

I still have not decided if I want a 18350 shorty or an 18650 light. If it is an 18350, I will probably keep the amp draw around 1.5 amps and if it's an 18650, I will go with 2.8 amps. I am also leaning towards a momentary side switch, so the light only comes on when you are holding the switch. It might not be appealing, but it would be different. I just don't know yet.

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01-28-14

This is the tali section. It's just a two piece light. The tail cap and the body are one piece.

The spring is soldered into the tail cap. The assembly consists of a 3/4" pipe, 3/4" coupling and a 3/4" end cap, with copper pieces soldered on the outside, to make it fit into the 1" head.

It will take a single 18350 cell.

The large diameter of the body, fits into the head and I will be making slots in the head and pins in the body to fit. It will be the same as several other copper lights, where 1/8" brass pins locate into "L" shaped slots, so the parts can mate and a slight twist locks them together.

I will be using a momentary SMD switch and a DrJones driver. I have made the switch hole and I am showing where the switch will go, in the photo below.

A little at a time. I might have it done this week, if all goes well.

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01-29-14

So, I worked on cutting myself first, to get that out of the way and then I worked on finishing the pill. 3.04A DrJones driver.

SMD switch is in place. Everything works by the way.

XM-L of some flavor on a 16mm Noctigon. The End! So, I thought, Hey, I'm really getting it done. Might be through tonight.

You know what that means..... SO I shoved the pill in the head. Goes in smooth, till the reflector gets into the front end, where it goes into the stepped down area, where the reflector will be centered and tight. Ok, I planned for that. Tap, Tap, Tap, just a little at a time. Looks good, getting very close, but it needs to go just a hair more, to fit up tight to the lens........ Tap, Crack! Kinda figured didn't you.

What happens when you crack a lens that you can't remove, because you soldered the bezel in place? I usually turn the air blue, till I can't see the damage any more.

Anyhow, it really was a good thing. I should have never gone with a fixed lens, because Murphy is always watching and waiting. Bad part was that in order to knock out the pill, I had to ruin the reflector. Good thing I have One More..... Oh, I shouldn'thavesaidthatwhileMurphyislistening....

When I fix it all, the lens will be held in with some Epoxy, so when it breaks again, I can just heat up the head a little and dig out the epoxy.

So, I spent the rest of the evening getting the body/head joint drilled and filed the slots for the brass pins to fit into. Still needs fine finishing, but maybe Thursday or Friday night.

Added an "O" Ring groove

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01-30-14

Brass pins are soldered in from the inside

Fits together well and it's done.

That's it. Except for beam shots.

HIGH

MID/LOW It seems to have both a green and blue tint at the same time. This one is probably about 7000k, but I'm not about to tear it apart now. It is the way it is.........

Oh man, this is gonna be GOOOD!

Without me saying, you know I’m lost already. Looks interesting.

Justin. Don’t you wish the flashlight industry and the plumbing industry would come to an agreement and synchronize the sizing of their parts?

Steve, the recipe call for 3 shots of tequila and 4 lime cubes not 3 cups of tequila and 4 beers. Heaven help us, you’re not following, you’re leading the way. Looking forward to another copper classic. Nice bezel!

Yep, but the bad part would be the inconsistent and bogus lumens ratings on all copper pipe and fittings!

Freezing your old butt off yet Old?

That looks really sweet, smooth as a whistle, gonna be a nice light for sure.

I vote for the 18350 for whatever that’s worth. A nice little pocket light with a recessed momentary. Yeah, that’s the ticket! :wink:

Class is in session H) Looking forward to the learning experience. Subscribed

As always… I can’t wait to see the finished product.
But whatever it is, I’m pretty sure it’s going to be an amazing stuff coming from Old-lumens factory :smiley:

Look up Brownell’s online, get yourself a checkering file, cut handmade knurling in the copper body. :slight_smile:

Tell you what, I will send it over for you to checker/knurl after I get finished with it.

Actually, I already tried that once. It didn't come out well at all. It's much nicer doing checkering on wood. I don't think I still have all the checkering tools. I believe I gave them to someone else.

It’s cold enough. Still better than August heat.

As with all your threads… subscribed. :bigsmile:

I wonder if a sleeve could be utilized, slip a carbon fiber tube over the smooth body…

Just wondering, that’s all! No thanks on the checkering, last time I tried that my Glock 23 went full auto! EEK!

01-28-14 Updated the OP

While the master works the apprentices watch.

I wish that l was smart enough to be an apprentice to the master and his apprentice. I love both of your works.
Your light is coming along amazingly creatively OL.

Other way around is more like it. Those fins you do are the best thing since sliced bread.