I have read the PDF but don’t see how this helps…?
Now we know that Pfets need more material and are more expensive but there are applications where they could come in handy…but nothing which is suitable for this situation…
What have I missed?
I can’t follow this thread any longer. I don’t know what language is being spoken, and it is giving me headaches. I’m happy that there are a few of you who are on the same page…
best wishes….
I don’t know much about these and not enough to really help but I can tell you a little bit of the work I did with the same driver. I tried two different FET’s. The first was off of a ZY-T08 and it acted goofy like the one you are talking about. No second driver hooked up but what it did was it had a low and high but both were very dim, I’m talking about dim enough to look at. If I held down the switch for a period of time it would give me a very bright blinky mode. That was it. I then put a DTU FET similar to the one of the black SRK driver on and The output was amazing but still once in a while it wouldn’t turn off correctly.
I have a couple different FET’s on the way so I’ll post my results here (if you don’t mind) when I try them out, with this driver. On of them on the way is the one that was mentioned for modding the DRY driver.
The DTU FET output had to have been very close to full direct drive.
The one I have yet to get to is the red 'JB' driver in the Securitying SRK clones. FET is a K4212 and does, best I can estimate, 14-15 amps from 4 20Rs into 3 XML2s on copper. If the attiny is happy driving it I think that FET will be the one I stick with... it's available on aliexpress for sure, maybe on ebay, I don't remember. But it's out there and works well. I'd also like to test it with a single cell & single LED, see if it still puts out good numbers.
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Couldn't this attiny/105c trick be used with just about any other momentary switch driver? Specifically thinking about the S1100/S2200, the output part of the driver is fine but it's sorely lacking anything like a useful UI. It'd need a zener regulator or a 7805 to drop the voltage for the attiny, but the output should still be able to control the rest of the driver just the same. There's plenty of space inside for extra components.
Maybe toggle switch? Push Button ON-OFF Soft Latch Circuits, Battery Powered Touch Toggle ON OFF Switch, Momentary Button MOSFET Power Switch for Microcontrollers
I made it for my SRK.
Momentary switch ON and OFF the attiny, so it working the same like in flashlight with normal clicky switch.
Working video http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Foc9R0dC2iI
I tested both circuits, and in my opinion the first one is better, no oscillating and after power connection is still OFF.
This trick could be done for a lot drivers to get any modes we want. Sounds good, heh?
Not only eswitch drivers, we could also wire a standard nanjg firmware in a light with a normal switch driver. I always wanted to try the 3T6 driver…
But anyway to get a direct drive driver we could also just make a driver board which hosts one big FET and a Tiny13, this could be put in every light we want.
But I like the idea of eswitch lights because they don’t need a crappy switch which will steal voltage and the srk lights are very good, small, bright and long battery life. Just the modes always fucked me up.
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I tried 3 parallel irlml2502 with one samsung20r and 3 xml2 parallel and got over 10A which killed the FETs in small time. These sot23 are only good for 3A. So I made 4 footprints on the 20mm board. The last time was the 15mm driver with space for two but I doublestacked one. The good thing on the sot23 FETs is they have almost all the same footprint and especially the 2502 is available everywhere for cheap. For single XML, 3 or four would be enough.
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@Macie
the good thing on an electronic switch with a microcontroller is the ability of any modes we want.
Bigger package, but it'll fit. Anybody who understands Datasheet Klingon want to take a look at the specs and see if it's worth a try? - http://www.st.com/web/catalog/sense_power/FM100/CL824/SC1164/PF64496
It has a low GS threshold so it will have low resistance on the few volts we are using.
Rdson seems low 20mOhm
Input capacitance 1265pF
Give it a try 
Please also try a capacitor between VCC and GND!
I have given up on my soic clip RIP, sadly I wasted hours on getting it to work again.
I have soldered cables on a nanjg and tried it which also frustrated me because it was fiddly…
I now measure 250uA on 5V and 120uA at 2.5V on a fully stacked nanjg.
I have a capacitor on Vcc! On the 105c. It's moved to the topside of the board though, sits between the bottom pad of R1 & GND, see the first pic at the top of the page.
Please try a bigger, spare, additional one.
But if it works now, and still works after adding another cap, what will that tell us? :~
Please report what works.
I thought you still had problems…
The blue single-FET driver works now with a 68 ohm resistor inline with the gate, it didn't work before with either the original 10 ohm resistor or wired direct to the gate with no resistor.
The 3 channel SRK driver I haven't messed with again, that one works but driving one channel at a time only.
I just tried the 3T6 driver and it works also. Yippieh!
Just cut the trace of the original PWM signal and soldered the new signal on, all modes work perfect. I tested it with a single xml2 and 4.8V.
This is an awesome concept! I've been lurking in this thread long enough... the Securitying SRK clone REALLY does some awesome output when modded! I bypassed the resistors and wow! It popped the protection circuits on my old FT Pana 2900s... That means over 5 amps drawn from each cell. I have it pulled apart now and am going to put some 16mm XM-L2s on Noctigons in.
Having the ability to add better mode selection and have low voltage warning/shutdown would be awesome, and this project would go a long way to easily (and cheaply) providing that to a lot of lights... along with massive current capability without having to stack 30 7135s and have master/slave boards. 
Yeah Werner! Been wanting to try that for some time now.
Did you just tap into the PWM out (forget which pin on the 105C) prior to the 7135's?
Yep. Just connect the Pwm signal to the right spot and bam…
Is the check already in the mail? 
Wire for the PWM-out:
None of my big pile of salvaged FETs will do anything close to what the one on the Securitying driver does. That thing is nuts.
This setup does a little under 10 amps...
It'll be used with the 3-up parts from one of the Securitying lights, and the Securitying awesome-driver will get the same treatment and will be used with the 6-up parts from the no-name 6XL2. :O
:O
I see that massive capacitor! 