Wow! Looks like you picked up some more juice just by swapping in the 105C. The stock MCU must not be giving 100%.
Another question: If it isn't needed, why do you still have the huge capacitor on the "JB" board?
It's big compared to the stock ceramic thing, but it's smaller than the others. It could be probably much MUCH smaller and still work, but I use what I have...
The total output numbers don't mean anything - all the lights are using different cells (20Rs, 28As, NCR 2900s, etc.), some were charged yesterday and not been used since, others have been used for a few days. It's just to give an idea of the mode spacing. Also the 6x is cool white, the 3x'ers are 3Bs in one and 4Cs in another, all kinds of variables not accounted for.
This is what ended up in the 6x light, with the cap on the 105C instead of the big lower board.
OK, which of these is the right version? http://www.aliexpress.com/store/718163/search?SearchText=attiny13
And what diodes are compatible with what comes stock on the 105C? What do I search for?
Would a Zener moded board work with this Fet to give a turbo MT-G2?
It sounded that way but went by fast and in Greek. Or maybe Werners board is set up for a Zener mod already? Is there any advantage to running both kinds of chips?
I don't see why not. I'd select the zener to get the highest safe voltage though, more signal to drive the FET's gate will, I think, always be better. Over 5v but less than 6 is where I'd start, the low voltage detection is going to be skewed anyway so as long as the attiny doesn't burn up it should be fine.
K4212 datasheet: http://documentation.renesas.com/doc/DocumentServer/D19564EJ1V0DS00.pdf
The ssu is the right version we need 8S1 type that is the smaller one, which is on a nanjg. The SU is the wider 8S2 version(like the tiny85 someone mentioned).
Zener mod should work, on the mentioned PCB I have a spot for one of these big Diodes(minimelf?), I ordered some 5.1V types from eBay.
Rufus which type differents do you mean?
The tiny13 tiny85 thing?
If someone needs more space he could also hand solder another small tiny in there, gmarsh used a tiny85 on a nanjg ,in his tv bgone driver, without problems.
Both kinds of chips= 7135 and k4212. Or do the fets need all of the Attiny pwm output to charge the gates?
FET & 7135s would have to be run from two separate output pins from the attiny, the only reason to do that is to get a lower low than you can get with just the direct drive FET.
With the FET+attiny only, a PWM value of '5' is pretty damn low, though it's higher than what you could call a moonlight. I used 0,5,20,60,130,255 in DrJones' minimo FW, in the direct drive/3x light, and the low is nearly identical on the lux meter as the standard low (not moonlight) in nlite with a single XML2 P60.
Can anyone send me a 7135 library for eagle?
I thought that might be the case. If the 13A struggled to control the gates at high frequency and low on time the 7135’s would be used for LMH and Turbo was only the fet only at 100%. But you have completely replaced the 7135’s. Nice work here. I don’t understand it all but been following anyway.
Well it runs fine at a PWM value of 5, or this FET does anyway. It might be different with different drivers (like, multi-channel drivers with more than 1 FET) or a different single FET. I think 5 is the minimum with whatever CPU clock DrJ used, I know less than nothing about the code.
That's a normal 105C still using the 8x7135s, it may be different running the FET. As a test I gave it modes of 0,1,2,3,4,5,100,255 just to see what happens (DrJ has a comment in the source that 5 is the minimum, but I think most folks know by now about me and following instructions...). It makes no light at all in the 1/2/3 value modes - it might behave different in a triple, with LEDs in parallel (lower Vf threshold).
HA HA!
uint8_t modes[]={0,1,2,3,4,5,20,100,255}; //PWM values, 5..255 - LEAVE THE "0" THERE
It makes light on ALL modes with those settings, on the 105C piggybacked onto the JB/K4212 driver. Stupidly low output on the lowest mode. lol :D
edit: Mode spacing looks better using 0,1,3,8,20,50,120,255; the first attempt was 0,1,4,9,20,70,140,255.
Ever seen a SRK do this?
:bigsmile:
though, I think I like Werner's UI better, just don't tell anybody I said that :8)
Nice.
From my experience Xml2 are better for this glowing, in my m6 the xml2 glows until battery reaches 2.5V the XML1 is flickering a lot earlier.
I need the brain people again -
I found a source, in the U.S. even!, for a bunch of Vishay SUD70N02-03P (pdf: http://www.vishay.com/doc?72246)
I've gone a bit crosseyed trying to slog through datasheets, but this one looks to have half the Rds(on) as the K4212... .0042 ohms vs. .0085 ohms. Right? And it should work without changes in the same circuit as the K4212? Logic-level thingamajig and the rest?
:tired:
I'm really digging Werner's UI. Being able to start on high or low without cycling through is awesome! Very responsive. Just need a lower low (moonlight) and I'll be happy with this setup.
How low it can go and still make light will be highly dependent on the hardware. If he releases the source when it's ready so everybody can plug in their own levels... :love:
And yeah, who needs memory when you can make it do whatever you want? I can never remember what the last mode was, so it's not much help if the light remembers it.
DrJones' MiniMo FW, 7 modes (PWM values of 1,3,8,20,50,120,255), input pin switched from star #4 to #3 to be compatible with the same wiring used with Werner's FW. Both .hex & .txt in here: http://75.65.123.78/fw/
The lowest mode with a PWM value of '1' gives 0.3 lux in the ceiling bounce test. Not quite moonlight... but on the same meter, a stock 2-mode SRK driver's low mode did 10.9. :D