Yeah, I prefer the exposure level be at whatever it takes to create a realistic representation of what the light does. I’ve seen some pictures that were well under-exposed and thought the flashlight to be rather a letdown, until seeing a video of the light doing field tests with accurate light balance. The light ended up looking much more powerful in the video that looked to be a better representation of what my eyes would actually see.
I got mine in the post last week - took just under two weeks to arrive.
As new as I am to LED lights I have to say I’m very impressed…and now I’m wondering if buying that PD35 was such a wise move.
Oh well, time will tell - but for the price of a couple of pints of beer I really can’t find anything to complain about with the C8.
I just ordered the T6-4C from BG. I think it is the default OP reflector. Now I’m thinking if I should shoot an email to them to swap the order to SMO reflector. I read on the first page that OP has much better beam than SMO but I also eager to see the maximum throw of this light.
I agree. the AR lense from the XinTD C8 have a bad coating. You can tell by looking at the tint of the reflection with a light bulb, the one from OS almost look like normal glass but with more blue tint, the one I got from cnqualitygoods have clearly a cleaner, weaker and cooler reflection.
I think the highest quality is UCL lens from flashlight lens but its not cheap.
And yes I can clearly see a difference in the output but its small but the beam look sharper. Its like cleaning your windows glasses. :bigsmile:
It’s a little brighter yes, but the T6 is 4C which is a much warmer tint than the 1A tinted U2.
I wouldn’t sacrifice brightness for tint but if it’s a light you use regularly, getting something that isn’t so sharp on the eyes might be an investment.
I like more "neutral" light, not light so white it's almost blue or so soft it's yellow
Yes you loose a few lumens to different bins, but for me it's about color rather than blazing light, which without a meter you really couldn't tell you lost 10 lumens
First letters are bin numbers yes the U2 is a brighter bin (makes more light), but the C4 tint (4300-4500K)vs the 1A (6500-7000K) is what I was aiming for
From left to right (white balance set to 5,200K): Quark MiNi AA (cool white XP-G R5), Olight T20-M (XR-E Q5), Quark 123² Turbo (XP-G S2), 4Sevens Preon 2 (neutral XP-G R4), Quark RGB (neutral white MC-E), SureFire 6P (incandescent), 4Sevens Preon 2 (high CRI XP-G), Quark MiNi AA (high CRI XP-G), Mini Maglite (incandescent), Quark 123² Tactical (warm white XP-G Q5).