does anyone else notice the light is on beacon mode after it shut off?
I mod’ed mine with simple copper braided both springs… can’t seem to be able to take the driver out and head is glued 
after I put the light down sideway, I notice the LED emitter is blinking… hmm it make a nice camping light I guess, so you don’t have to fumble in the dark to find it, on the other hand… it drain the battery faster :~
dang it… I have a high hope about resistor mod on this light, now it seems almost impossible :_(
Even with the tail-cap switch off?
yup…the light start beacon mode after it was shut off… I have to unscrew the tail cap almost completely in order to turn it off completely.
just wondering if anyone else who has this light can chime in
Mine sure doesn’t do that. Sounds like a driver issue.
I also have the copper spring mod done last week with my HD2010.
I had no visual difference than without, but it can not hurt the contrary, there are other benefits.
(the HD2010 gave huge difference.)
I also had a weird sort of flicker and contacts when I put them back together.
beautiful in the inner ring continue with your soldering and your copper wire is the message.
I have little need to adjust with a knife.
when everything was good.
and of course the driver is not too hard if you overheat the copper jump mod does but of course we already know 
:Sp
i have the spring mod done with yezl y3 and the hd2010 (same moment)
My bug was about the yezl y3
I fixed the issue :D… no more blinking beacon mode when it’s off, it turn out to be when I copper braided the negative spring, a little blob of solder touched the retainer ring in the tail cap.
I guess it kind of sorted it and cause the beacon mode when it’s off :~
but on the other hand, the beacon mode does come in handy when you drop the light in the dark,
it’s easier to find 
I have bought a Type A and a Type C. They both came in identical boxes and the extension tubes came seperately, all together in one bigger box.
Not knowing which one was which, I simply loaded up three cells into the tubes and ran each one on three cells for around 15mins, just to check their stability at full voltage. They are both completely the same.
I really like the definitive click from the side switch, and wish that the Solarforce S2200 had the same tactile feedback to it.
Everything came very un-lubed for me, so I lubed up all the threads and found o-rings missing on the tubes which connect into the head for both of them. Anyone else have this?
Tailcap Power measured as follows:
High - 10.0W
Med - 2.44W
Low - 0.435W
Mine ordered the 11th, shipped the 18th - last update on the 22nd....
did anybody try to open up the driver pill yet?
I looked at it, and the decided not to.
Ever since opening perfectly functioning flashlights to take a peek constantly requires re-modding and waiting a month or two for parts to get it to work again.
Any more info?
Lens diameter?(would AR glass for hd2010 fit?)
Approx. driver diameter 17,20mm?
Is side switch illuminated?
well… woke up this morning and saw this questions, decided to help fellow BLF.
spoken like a true flashaholic, without washing my face or brushing my teeth yet nor have any breakfast.
I decided to open up a perfectly working Yezl Y3 and share the info.
the lens is 56.8mm ( I thought the bezel is glued… but it’s not ) the LED MCPB is the same size as Smallsun TY-08 25mm
the driver size is 23 mm and the switch is not lighted
now while everything is open, suddenly I have the urge to modify this driver and see if I can get a little oomph.
either my brain didn’t function well before breakfast or I’m just a Noob, so I didn’t measure the current before attempting to modify this driver.
so I opened up the bezel to unsolder the wires from LEDs, then by accident I realized… crap I could have just open it from the pill section as the light came in 4 sections
while I was trying to get the LED insulation gasket off, somehow I managed to scratch the dome grr… :_(
oh well… dedome LED it is, put it on the bench vise and heat it up from under and voila… the dome is off in less than 10 secs 
so I added R200 on top the R180 thinking maybe I should just go easy first and wait until somebody who have more $$ and more crazier than me and willing to sacrifice a perfectly working light :bigsmile:
but of course I didn’t want to stop there… my hand is still itching to solder some more, so I decided to cut the small torroid and replace them with a bigger one courtesy of my busted AK47 9 LEDs driver( BTW I don’t have any clue what does the toroid do in the flashlight, I thought bigger is better :D)
Yezl3 is on the left and AK 47 is on the right
I also changed the wire to AWG 22 and slightly longer, just in case I want to change the resistor, I didn’t have to unsolder the wires again from the LEDs… unfortunately that didn’t work out, there’s just not enough room especially with the new bigger torroid :~
put everything back together and eagerly took out my FandyFire 2010 and put them side by side and…
for a good 30 seconds I was so happy… the hotspot definitely is more intense than Fandyfire 2010 a lot more actually
too bad my crappy point and shoot camera couldn’t capture what the eyes see in person.
but wait… is it because the dedome LED or the resistor mod and torroid mod?
and suddenly the light start to flicker… huh? and it went dim so quickly, I tried to use the switch button on the side to change the mode.
um… nothing happened… say what?!? this light became 1 mode only?!?
turn it off, and switch to another battery and hoping maybe that’s because the battery ( I have doubt it though)
same thing happen it was very bright for few secs and then flicker and goes dim quickly BUT strange thing happen, now the light able to switch mode… huh? what did just happen and how?
it’s perfectly working fine in medium and low mode but not high…
EDIT: now the light is doing all kind of weird things on me… now the high is OK but the MID and LOW is flickering
EDIT again: never mind… now the light only goes in 1 mode… and it’s as in LOW mode ( probably even lower than the original )
it’s driving me crazy now… :Sp
oh well… I think I’m going to have my breakfast now and then maybe after a nap I’ll mess around with it again or maybe I’ll wait until people with more knowledge with sense resistor will start chiming in on this driver 
I just ordered the one with the extension tubes. Saved $3.68 using coupon code LEDWALLBUYS14.
You have to chose “buy it now”, then exit out of the pop up for payment, then go into your shopping cart and enter the code.
I think I’ll leave my driver all stock :bigsmile:
The Tooth Fairy's revenge.
Note to self: Don't mod before brushing teeth.
for me its a good flashlight i love it .
on the site the driver 2.6 Amp but with full pan 3400 its much brighter the spil than one c8 thagsfire direkt drive
Is this with 3 cells? So less than 1A at the tail on high?
ugh… my Yezl Y3 is dead now :_(
Yes. Pretty much stable across 1~3 cells if you use good discharge capability cells.
Live and learn, right?
Alas, poor Yezl! I knew him, Horatio.