UF W-200 Build (dive light mod)

Hi,please …… which is a measure of the o-ring in the head that stops the glass? I have lost……Thanks

This is the outer most o-ring. holds the glass in place.

I.D. (inner diameter) = 26.9mm (1.060'')

O.D. (outer diameter) = 32.72mm (1.288'')

width/thickness = 2.79mm (0.11'')

these are my measurements, so may not be exact, but it's close.

Usually I use the tin foil wrap method. To hold the wraps together I'll tape the P60 module with a small piece of CU tape. Then the P60 can go back in.

I think I like some method like this better than using Arctic Silver compound or Fujik, because if the P60 dies it can be replaced rather quickly.

Thanks!!!I would like your help again …… where I can buy the o-ring the head? thanks

to order a replacement you can use the GITD o-ring see Sigman's thread - he's still selling them. Order the 1'' (25mm) size.

Or if it's not real expensive (>$4) I could mail them to you. One GITD and one original. PM me with full address.

I never seen any issues with RMM's P60 modules. they were fine.

From KD I recently got some P7 size P60 modules for a MT-G2 mod. I have RMM's zener mod driver to run it. Should be a blast of light.

I find that this light in the unmodified version makes a good backup dive light as well.

It’s more like a light sabre but diving at night in limited visibility (local conditions here) the works well as a backup and for signaling. I use rechargeable batteries for my main dive light but for a backup I also prefer regular batteries since they last a long time and has a gradual discharge curve (I don’t check my backup batteries often and like to know they will work when needed).

Everyone’s diving condition are unique however.

this shows how the pieces go together

I need a solution to fuse together the P60's negative outer spring to the aluminum piece on the other end. The people at JB weld say that regular JB weld is NOT conductive. I'm thinking of something like JB weld that I can smear on both ends and when I put it back together they will become permanently connected.

This is just to make the light that much more dependable. Any good ideas?

Hey gcbryan,

Reliability is a good thing. I did a little diving in Oregon... gives meaning to "braille dive".

If your light ever craps out what do you think about an XP-G2 drop-in replacement? Maybe 2.5-3.0 amps, maybe de-domed? that would be a Jedi sabre, you think?

I use a solid copper spacer in P60s instead of that awful spring. Gives better heat transfer and better ground connection and still allows easy disassembly, all at the same time.

Height of the spacer is cut to be just tall enough that when the light's screwed together, the spacer is clamped down tight before the head/bezel bottoms out against the body, so that max pressure is applied to the spacer. It's just copper pipe, slit lengthwise so it's a tight fit inside the ID of the head.

Any way to get the spring to engage the other aluminum piece the way it engages the brass pill? i.e. snap into a groove.

On your light with a much bigger ID in the head the spacer will never be able to be spread enough to contact the inside and still land on the bottom of the reflector. Skip the lengthwise slit and leave it round, maybe pinch the top edge inwards a bit so it's tight(-ish) on the OD of the pill instead.

I gather the earth spring is not long enough to make contact? I’m not sure if it is possible but can extra spring(s) be soldered together to make contact with what looks like the aluminium adaptor?
Another solution.
http://www.rebreatherworld.com/dive-lights-torch/37127-modified-w200-backup-light.html#post352657

Springs suck, throw them away. That was a good idea when they still used xenon bulbs where hotter = better, they have no place in there with a LED.

Make as many spacers as needed to bridge the gap if it’s large, solder them together, then use Arctic Silver Thermal Adhesive to bond copper to aluminum with electrical conductivity. :wink:

If you could get the spring stuck onto the right hand piece then attach the pill, slide that through the head from the right, and thread the p60 reflector on from the left last.

I don’t think comychair likes my idea. :_(

Not that at all, it's Ohm's Law and thermodynamics that don't like using the springs. I'm just the messenger. :bigsmile:

There are many different kinds of conductive adhesives. You could try this place and ask for a free sample.

http://www.conductives.com/request_samples.php

Ok I like the Arctic Alumina Adhesive idea, which I can buy @ mtnelectronics. Or 18sixfifty's idea above... It's quick and may be a great solution. I'll have to try it. If it doesn't work as expected I'll have to look at the other ideas.

The negative spring reaches and touches the aluminum (AL) piece when you put it all back together. But if I made it permanently attached to the AL piece, then the light will be more reliable.

yeah I cheated and called all you Smart Tech. builders in here. thanks for all the responses.

go to bed already I even PM'ed Old-Lumens - I guess he's asleep.

I'd simply wrap it in copper tape. When shoved in tightly and done right it becomes a very solid connection .

Maybe you didn’t get the PM, I don’t know, but I did reply and here it is. First of all, it’s about impossible for me to see what’s going on with the problem, when the light is there with you, not here with me, but I would hazard a guess that it’s too late to do anything correct on the light now, since that aluminum core has been cut down. What should have happened was to measure the depth of the drop in and cut the aluminum so that it would overlap the brass of the drop in, even if the aluminum had to be opened up inside to do it.

For what you got now, just go with copper tape. Not much reason to do anything else now and drop the outer spring. If you feel that will not work, solder a wire to the brass pill and run it to the aluminum insert and drill a hole in the aluminum insert, put the wire in from the inside to the outside. Solder on the inside so it can't come out, then solder from the outside, till it can't go in and sand it smooth to the aluminum's outer wall. Or drill and tap a hole and use a screw to hole the wire in there.

Like I say, without seeing it in person, most of what we say is probably meaningless.