Flip the FET over and bend the legs so they're a mirror image of stock, glue it to the PCB with epoxy, then solder the legs. Voila - a super-East092! You can also trim off the overhanging part of the tab and file down the corner that sticks out to get it to fit in a 17mm pill.
{0,1,3,8,20,50,120,255} is really nice with a FET (doesn't work so great if still using the 7135s).
The (pwm value 1) moonlight mode is just a faint glow, the die turns from yellow to white. Its nice to 4.5 amps on the high end and still have a very faint glow on the low end. Really when driving a single xml or xml2 around the battery direct drive current, there’s no need for the amc7135’s, their not doing a thing.
Is there any particular reason why 0,1,3,8,20,50,120,255, is such low on the low end, would starting at 0,3,5,7,9,20,50,255 be better, at least have the light start with a little oomph, or since it's so low it's for reading or something like that
I understand what the 0 thru 255 is for the binary equivalent of all 0's all the way up thru all 1's...pretty nifty (I guess some way to calculate the on/off time of the cycles)
I guess I will have to build me one to see, then figure out how to program the ATTiny13A
I can’t seem to manage to get a picture of pwm value 1 that actually represents what I’am seeing.
@WarHawk-AVG I use moonlight mode with my EDC light more than any other mode, while everyone else in the house is a sleep. I can see just enough to get around without disturbing anyone.
This still doesn't hardly represent what I'am seeing, but its the best i can do. You can actually see only the die lite up white in a square shape. You can even see the bonding wires without being blinded. Pic is with pwm value of 1, Mouse over for pwm value of 5. Five is the lowest I have been able to run the amc's at stable.
Try it with the flash on.
comfychair, why don’t you just transplant the microcontroller?
That’s what he actually does, but the footprints of the Controllers Are Not the Same.
So he uses the nanjg as a mothership, also the nanjg has a voltage divider for the battery protection and a reverse voltage diode on board…
aah… all is clear now. thanks
Edit: by footprint do you mean pinout?
reedit: answered my own question: different pinouts.
Yeah the controller on those big FET boards ain’t a ATTiny13A like on the 105c, so he uses a stripped 105C as the brains to control the FET, it’s actually incredibly simple and effective other than having to use another “daughter” board, kind of like a shield plugged into an arduino…but in reverse
Thanks RD, Ill try that next time, I already tore it down to install in the 4x kung.
Both pics where taken with a desk lamp pointed straight towards the led, that’s the only way I could get the pics from being a light ball glare. Its still not as faint as I see it.
SRK driver swapped into the last 'Securitylng' light that was still using the stock driver/MCU...
Running Werner's 098b, PWM=7 on the left (3-toroid SRK driver), MiniMo PWM=1 on the right (JB driver with added single toroid):
With this FET option, it sounds like 4.5A is the best it can do with an XM-L2 on copper (used a Sam 20R)? This sounds a bit too low - yes, I'm a amp nut. But for example in a pretty decent well heat sinked host, like a HD2010 or XINTD X3, I would like to push it above 5A, and would expect direct drive to have lower resistance than a pile of 7135's?
My meter, my battery box, my test leads, my LED, and so on... your stuff may give different numbers. But if it only increases by 0.1A when the FET is removed from the circuit, it's an excellent FET for single cell voltages.
have you tried this with a supfire M6 Driver?
i so want to do this to my king and my m6. 
Brian
Werner's used this with a M6: https://budgetlightforum.com/t/-/24258#comment-528702
did he remove the original MCU and hook in there similar to what you did to the SRK?
Brian
Are you still using the momentary switch. I cant see one connected to any of the pins on the attiny13.
Switch wires are connected to the underside (black+red twisted, you can see them heading off to the left out of frame) so as to not block access to the MCU pins for reflashing.
Ah, good idea. I think I had mine hook to one of the stars, seems like it was the last one on the right.
I guess it depends on which one is used in the code. I’ll have to go back and get a little refresher coarse in how to make lower modes, the one I have only goes to pwm 5 and it has a few more lines that reference that value.
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One more thing comfychair, have you looked at your joined date and your post count. Wow!