The L2m will take an 18350, should fare better with larger capacity. (16340 has 550mAh, vs 18350’s 800mAh) And the L2m body is on sale at solarforceflashlight-sales.com for $3.99, buy a head and tailcap of your choice and you’re in business.
I found that with 4 cells, the reach was diminished compared to a single cell. Wonder why that is? I got the KD one and really like it, not a lot of visible light so it’s fairly misleading but it sure puts out the UV!
I wonder how this Labino light for $900 compares to the Nitecore CU6? As far as power and output goes. I am not familiar with the terms that are used in the descriptions.
Or not. Didn’t realise that Manafont is not taking orders while they change management. Hopefully the price of the TK doesn’t go up. $31.40 is the best I’ve seen. Meanwhile, I picked up the KD P60 and a 501B.
There is 3W and 1W Tank007 and Mastiff A2. What kind of manufacturer is Mastiff? And should I try to get a 3W one, or would anyone here be happy with just a 1W one?
I also don’t understand what is the function of the AA extender in the Tank007 flashlight. It seems like it adds nothing to the price and they seem like all specced for two AA batteries.
Thanks for any information. I know AA batteries are weaker than lithium cells, but they are also more readily available and not as expensive.
The lights in the link above seem to be a little overpriced to me. The AA extender will give you longer run times allowing you to use 2-AA’s instead of 1, thus doubling your run time. It also makes the host longer. The lights probably have low voltages drop ins (.8v to 4.2v) Using 1 or 2 AA’s will put you safely inside the voltage limits. (1.5 to 3v’s on fresh cells)
The smaller 1-AA Tank in the link is only a 1W output vs. the 3W output of the 2-AA light.
Tank makes some decent lights, and have been discussed on here several times.
Check with some of the vendors on here and see if they carry the same light. They offer excellent customer service and guidance.
The TK566 goes from 1w to 3w with the extender, or at least that’s what was explained to me when inquiring about it.
Also, Manafont had them for under $30 at one stage…
If you are into soldering, a 365nm light can still be made fairly cheap by buying a separate emitter (an ok chinese emitter goes for under 15 dollars, I guess the Tank uses one of those) and put it in a host-with-driver of choice.
I think I’d rather buy a complete unit. I know the required electronics but have no experience with hunting parts and figuring how to put them physically together. Unless someone can show me a list, like “host here, driver there and emitter there, here you go” and I just click “buy, buy, buy” and slide the thing together once everything arrives.
There was links in the thread to two P60 drop in that will just slip into a P60 host, the links still work. One was the solarforce with 380-450 claimed nm. And the Kaidomain with claimed 365nm. The reports from an owner suggest he kaidomain was better, less polluting other light and it charged flouro paint instantly. The SF one did it too, just not as quickly. It was pointed out that light in the 365 range can also do what the ones in the higher range will do, but not vice versa, so the 365 would seem to be the pick to me. If Im reading it right. And at the price point of a few dollars that is.
Hi all,
I own a couple of P60 (502b w/186500) 1W UV lights from DX. They wont light up a $100 USD bill. Based on this thread, I ordered one from KD. Do you think it will work in a 501 with 2 CR123s?
I could be wrong, but I don't think the new US $100 bills have anything that fluoresces in them. Maybe some small fibers in the paper, but I don't recall.
Yeah, ever since I got a CU6 I've been aiming it at random things, like my shoelaces and watch hands. It's really amusing, and probably bad for my eyes haha.