aah… all is clear now. thanks
Edit: by footprint do you mean pinout?
reedit: answered my own question: different pinouts.
Yeah the controller on those big FET boards ain’t a ATTiny13A like on the 105c, so he uses a stripped 105C as the brains to control the FET, it’s actually incredibly simple and effective other than having to use another “daughter” board, kind of like a shield plugged into an arduino…but in reverse
Thanks RD, Ill try that next time, I already tore it down to install in the 4x kung.
Both pics where taken with a desk lamp pointed straight towards the led, that’s the only way I could get the pics from being a light ball glare. Its still not as faint as I see it.
SRK driver swapped into the last 'Securitylng' light that was still using the stock driver/MCU...
Running Werner's 098b, PWM=7 on the left (3-toroid SRK driver), MiniMo PWM=1 on the right (JB driver with added single toroid):
With this FET option, it sounds like 4.5A is the best it can do with an XM-L2 on copper (used a Sam 20R)? This sounds a bit too low - yes, I'm a amp nut. But for example in a pretty decent well heat sinked host, like a HD2010 or XINTD X3, I would like to push it above 5A, and would expect direct drive to have lower resistance than a pile of 7135's?
My meter, my battery box, my test leads, my LED, and so on... your stuff may give different numbers. But if it only increases by 0.1A when the FET is removed from the circuit, it's an excellent FET for single cell voltages.
have you tried this with a supfire M6 Driver?
i so want to do this to my king and my m6. 
Brian
Werner's used this with a M6: https://budgetlightforum.com/t/-/24258#comment-528702
did he remove the original MCU and hook in there similar to what you did to the SRK?
Brian
Are you still using the momentary switch. I cant see one connected to any of the pins on the attiny13.
Switch wires are connected to the underside (black+red twisted, you can see them heading off to the left out of frame) so as to not block access to the MCU pins for reflashing.
Ah, good idea. I think I had mine hook to one of the stars, seems like it was the last one on the right.
I guess it depends on which one is used in the code. I’ll have to go back and get a little refresher coarse in how to make lower modes, the one I have only goes to pwm 5 and it has a few more lines that reference that value.
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One more thing comfychair, have you looked at your joined date and your post count. Wow!
Yes I have used this on my M6 that’s how I came to the idea of using a nanjg as mothership.
I have stripped the original mcu and there was a special mode order necessary because the 7136 behave a bit different than a plain FET.
I guess you could try to use it with the stock mcu still in place like comfy first did, but I don’t recommend it for longer use because the standby current of the original driver is quite high….
Another one, this time with the stock resistors still functional.
Remove the stock controller, optionally place it on the floor and smash it with a hammer for proper disposal.
These are the 3 pins that go to the 3 gate drivers that go to the 2 buck controllers that run the 3 FETs. What an elegant design! :Sp
OCD? What's that?
See? Now they're mounted properly.
While still hot, smoosh the heatshrink down flat. Holds the wires in place tight enough that no epoxy is needed.
Power for the brain is picked up from the inboard tab on the big yellow capacitor (the cap's outboard tab goes to ground). The brain's ground comes via the copper mounting frame. The single black wire connected to the big driver's three PWM pins goes to any of the 105c pads that used to control the 7135s.
The only thing left to do is attach two pins to the back of the switch PCB, and corresponding female connectors to the ends of the switch cable. Makes disassembly so much nicer when you don't have to futz around with that stupid switch bezel just to remove the driver.
I measured L1=2.48A, L2=2.47A, L3=2.35A. All 3 channels have different resistor combos because of the vastly different PCB traces, but odd that the low one only has a single R010 resistor, while L1 has a R010 & R110, and L2 has a R010 & R068. Every one I've seen of this style has those same resistor values in the same locations, but I guess that's pretty close for a $5 driver.
yeah i dont plan on leaving the original MCU there. ill be removing it and smashing it lol.
i need to get a soic clip yet so when i do, ill be giving this a shot with my SRK and M6.
im excited.
Brian
Left: red 'JB' single FET + toroid, PWM=3
Center: 3x XPG2, Nlite, 12x 7135, 'moonlight' mode
Right: 3-toroid SRK driver, PWM=3
Pretty snazzy! Any idea how many uH those toroids are?
The uH rating is less important than the current capacity, since everything that goes to the LEDs has to go through the toroid. Which of these would be least happy having 15 amps shoved through it?
I have not yet tried the little red one. Ones with fewer turns (less total length) or multiple or fatter conductors can carry more current with less resistance than ones with more turns or smaller/fewer conductors. As we know from selecting 'good' FETs, a few milliohms can make a big difference when the input voltage is so close to the LED's Vf.
The thing that has me stumped is, I haven't found any listings that allow sorting by number of conductors, and just looking through thousands of pictures on Digikey isn't really getting anywhere - everything I find that might be suitable is non-stocked. :(
You're right, they are all listed by uH (inductance) and amp rating. There are lots of stocked models on Mouser. The uH rating has got to matter, right? Isn't that the whole reason for using the toroid? Otherwise we could just stack a resistor with the same resistance as the toroid, but we know that the inductance is what's making the difference here.
Problem is that without an oscilloscope I have no idea how to measure the inductance.
All those shown have got to vary wildly in their uH ratings, but give similar results in calming down the lower PWM levels.