Send me the $100 bill and I’ll see if any of my lights make it glow… :party:
It should work fine. The voltage is 3v to 18v if I remember correctly. Some members were reporting that it worked better in the higher voltage ranges.
Yes. I’m getting a magenta 501b just use with the KD drop-in. That way I don’t get confused and pick up the wrong light.
New US $100 under the Nitecore CU6:
Oh yeah. The omniscient embedded strip. Good point and thanks for the correction. Still probably a lot less then the poster was expecting.
Yeah, ever since I got a CU6 I've been aiming it at random things, like my shoelaces and watch hands. It's really amusing, and probably bad for my eyes haha.
Speaking of which, I got these glasses for my laser, but they really make UV light pleasant on the eye and you really see fluorescing objects so much better. I have several pair of yellow glasses, for some reason these work better. Haven't really compared side by side though. So caveat emptor.
UPDATE: Another member purchased these glasses and reported that they don't work as well as most yellow glasses. I trust that members judgment in this area better than mine.
I know that texaspyro has better output on one cell. I have this KD drop in and find that mine is very much brighter on 8.4 volts than on a single cell. Even though they came from the same source, knowing Chinese venders I would not be surprised to see different drivers or LEDs.
I do find that the KD 365 nm UV does a much better job on bank notes than my unknown 380 nm drop in.
Just received the KD 365nm P60 and to my surprise, there are two emitters inside the dome.
I thought the two emitter version was the 395nm version. I’ve just tried it out on some money and it fluoresces the Australian 50 dollar note OK where as my other 395nm one doesn’t show one of the symbols. Can anyone confirm that the 365nm also has the two emitters? Everything else is as how it was described in this thread.
Another thing is that I bought a purple Ultrafire WF501b as a host. Well the P60 does not fit in the head as the lens retaining ring kept it from going deep enough. I had to remove the lens to get it to fit, but it does mean I’m going to have to use it without the lens which probably has some pluses.
I received my KD P60 dropin today also.
I also wondered the two emitters under one dome.
Tested it on bills, works fine.
P.S.: Try it on:
- Your watch with Lume on hands
- GITD tailcaps
- For example shine it to yous other flashlight reflector, LED phosphor may shine some yellow light back
Definitely cool.
Thanks for the CU6 pics. I think this is now one of only two(?) pages on the internet with any beam shots for it.
The other one I found is: Playing with the new toy: Nitecore CU6 - Field Herp Forum
… and a youtube video which doesn’t really show much: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AV1A4-B40Ik
… plus someone claiming that the actual photon output should be around 450mW worth, though I’m not really sure how that translates into a familiar unit like lumens. I doubt the usual 683 lm/W math applies, but if it did, that would mean about 300 “lumens” of mostly-invisible light.
Regardless, assuming the 3000mW figure is correct for its input power, that’s several times as much as the cheap 12-LED 375nm light I have, and at a better wavelength… with a more focused beam and all the other Chameleon extras.
Here's another photo to give you an idea of the strength. The bill is sitting on a white box which is probably treated with some fluorescent. I'm still collecting applications to have this light reviewed.
Yow, UV beam pics are hard. I just tried a bit with my cheapo UV light. Granted, I also have an inexpensive camera and my only UV “filter” is a pair of yellow party glasses… but still.
Here was the light, unfiltered, on a wall. I took this to show the star-shaped beam pattern (which is only visible to the camera when it’s really close to the wall).
This was a 20 GBP bill, with no UV filter (click to enlarge):
… and the same thing, with the yellow party glasses in front of the lens to block UV light (click to enlarge):
None of these show very well what it actually looks like in person. Things fluoresce a lot better to my eye than they do to the camera.
I have this drop in and didn’t notice that it had two emitters, just checked mine - bought a few months ago - and it has two.
It works very well to charge GITD and also works well on “black light” enhanced posters, must be the ageing hippy side of me. :8)
I’m running mine on 18v 6x3v CR123s in a Solarforce L2P with 2 extension tubes, the CR123s rattle a bit but work well, I tried it with a single 18650 fully charged and it was definitely not as bright.
I have several “no name” UV P60s and a couple of Solarforce UVs and the Kaidomain pushes out less visible light and more UV.
I went through my son's toys with a 365nm light (my Ledengin LZ1 mod), a lot of cheap plastic fluorescence like crazy
Yep, looks like the real deal to me. Tried it out last night and it definitely shows stuff that my 395nm can’t.
In terms of GITD stuff, my 395nm one that runs off 2xCR2032 cells only manages to make a toy GITD lizard glow for 10 seconds after charging it for 10 seconds. The P60 off a single 18650 manages to make the same lizard glow for over a minute and then some! Might have found a metric for measuring UV power.
Heh, if glow time is the metric, I’d better avoid testing with my bottle of glow paint. It generally glows all night just from ceiling-bounced mood lighting.
I agree, the KD 365 nm has a lot less visible light than my “no name” 380 nm. At least it does on two 18650 cells, on one cell it is very disappointing.
I need to try two cells as I’m quite pleased with the output of mine. I can get things fluorescing quite well from about 2 metres, and good results charging up the kids GITD stars on the ceiling from about 5 feet. Maybe I got a similar one to DBCstm.