What now
Blazer1 wrote:
Today I received my second flashlight, a “Super XINT D” @ 5a from Mountain Electronics and lets just say if you want to be happy with your Convoy C8 don’t compare it to Mountain Electronic’s modified XINT D, …wow it is bright!!
I still like the Convoy for the price but it is as weak as water compared to my new light.
…. it appears you best not go this route!
Yea, I checked that out earlier but I’m not sure I need a brighter flashlight right now. I know famous last words.
Its still light out here so I’m waiting for the sun to go down. lol
How do I tighten down the pill (I think thats what its called). My light is flickering on and off and when I took the lens off the LED portion is loose and rattles a little. I see the 2 indents on top but I don’t have anything to fit them…It also makes a LOUD whine on the medium setting.
Off to look for some needle nose pliers I guess.
Don’t get me wrong, at this price the Convoy C8 is a great light that I can use under any condition and not worry about damaging it. I plan to order a couple more for friends and family. To compare the Convoy to the “Super Xintd” from Mountain Electronics is not a far comparison. After playing with my “Super Xintd” and picking up the Convoy C8 I am constantly thinking the Convoy C8 is on medium so I keep clicking to get to high,…then I remember,…oh yea that is as bright as it gets. :bigsmile:
Needle nose Pliers/sturdy tweezers work great.
Flickering may also be due to long protected batteries and weak springs.
I found a post from CRX for Improvised Pill Tool using nails and a rubber band that I’m gonna try.
I did get it tightened up some using some pliers and the whine noise went away for the most part. Back to playing with my new flashlight, its dark here finally.
I see 6 emitter options. Can somebody provide a run-down on which one is preferred? Thx!
Starting at the top with 1A, this is a cool white (blue/white) tint and the most power available for higher lumens output.
The 1A de-domed is a tighter beam hot spot for more throw at the sacrifice of fairly substantial lumens loss and a lesser tint quality, it should be near white but could be a bit on the green side
Stepping down in these tints get’s warmer and less lumens as you go down, with the lowest being a near tungsten light yellow/orange in appearance for those that still like the color of the lights from yesteryear in a more powerful and more dependable option.
The 3C is near white, a good choice if you’re straddling the fence. 
Perhaps this will be some help. 5000K is near daylight white. A camera flash typically works in the 5700K area.
Click to view larger.
Paid : 08/02
Shipped : 12/02
Waiting with useless tracking number…
Last checked today…
Shipped : 23/02
:weary:
How did they shipped it twice? 
10 days, already here!
I have been ordering quite some C8´s but in overall quality, this is by far the best.
Hardly anything to rant, naturally the LED dome has a tiny blemish, as about 95% of cheap XM-L lights seem to have.
Reflector has a very small scratch, hard to notice.
From outside and inside otherwise flawless in function and form. Has been generously lubed. O-rings good an intact.
Draws amps like it should and beam is nothing less than 5/5.
I had no idea the thread I started would take off like this!
Newestrend ultrafire c8 is also a good choice.
…but thank you for starting it anyway! 8)
Received mine today after 4 weeks. Quite impress with what we can get for $16. There is a small imperfection from machining on the head but the rest is just outstanding. The reflector and lens are very clean without any blemishes at all. I measured the tailcap using freshly charged to 4.15 (and also new) Sanyo UR18650FM and the result is 2.65A. Was that good?
Yes, that is just fine.
After adding a few chips to mine, I was having trouble with the current measured, 2.8 up to 3.5a. It would not read past 3a. I took the pill out and unscrewed the driver to test. 3.48a. Screwed the driver in 3.48~a. Put the pill back in the head 3~a.
I had to clean my threads for it to work properly, the pill threads. I also removed some of the anodizing from the lip,where the head screws on on the inside of the tube. I have no problems with current now.
Great heads up, all I had in C8 category before this were $7-8 cheapy deal C8s, this is twice the price for a 4C tint and more than twice as nice
Thanks!
3.5A must be extra awesome for small amounts of money! How do you added the chips? Isn’t that will make the driver thicker?
You can stack the 7135’s by soldering them on top of each other