The Raven- 10440 Minimag in black - Had to fix it

The Master of Miniscule invented intrigue, grab your popcorn and enjoy the ride as no one re-creates a light like the Duck. :wink:

He fits all the pieces together, layers of copper pipe and brass pipe sleeved together to perfection, sandwiches the rings and fins and solders the entire thing together into a solid piece. And if it doesn’t cooperate, he disassembles it all and redoes it till it’s perfect. Cause that’s the way Scott rolls. :slight_smile:

Each part of the puzzle has it’s own genius behind it, each technique and implementation a new level of genius, like playing 3D Chess with Dr. Spock. :bigsmile:

Wow, that is quite a design, very complex, very nice, watching! :-)

Now that I have a design (not set in stone, that part I still wing it), I can bore the head back halfway through the threads. There are 2 1/2 full turns and I’d like to keep ~1 1/4. That gives me about 16-17mm to play in. Then I’ll cut the head just behind the o-ring land and all those extra bits fit between the cuts and into the bore. Because of some of the geometry I’ll have to braze certain parts together so that the don’t come apart or slip when I solder others. Each fin, each wire, each set of parallel lines is a separate part(by my count 24, not including the Sinkpad or driver), all in a space about the size of a p60 pill. On the first few I made a separate pill for the led and driver that was a slip fit into the rest. Because of the higher drive current on this one (1.5A on high) I wanted to try a one piece design(albeit soldered) but with more larger fins. I also wanted to retain access to the driver which is why it’s threaded into the back half of the head. The brass male threads at the driver end will be brazed to the first brass fin but the female threads there and the male bezel threads will be epoxied with JB weld. Getting sketches done and my brain wrapped around it to the point where I can see the process in my minds eye takes time and I’ve learned from unfinished projects not to start until I can do that. I can’t always do that but I much prefer it that way. Today I start cutting so check back for updates.

Scrolling through the op in edit mode is a pain, what did you all think of my use of links for updates in the last build?

Are you using advanced input format?

I’m using the iPhone input format. Keypad takes up 2/3 of the screen and on a long post the text doesn’t all fit in the box and I have to navigate out of the box without having the cursor move to get to the controls and input pics, links, paragraphs, etc. after a few edits in the op it’s much easier to put updates at the current end of the thread and put a link at the top of the op. Then, no matter how many posts follow the stages of the build can be tracked. Since there’s just descriptive explainations in Post 16 I might not link that or if I did just put”blah, blah, blah” in the link text box. Just for you I also edit the thread title with each new link added.

I hate using a phone to even read threads let alone try and post with one. What you did last time from memory works fine by me. Just remember lots of pictures and waffle. :slight_smile:

I know a lot of people do that, but to me it’s just nuts. I don’t have a smart phone though so that probably explains it. I can’t imagine reading this forum and looking at the pics on anything less than my 24” monitor. lol. Heck, I’ve had bride and groom try to pick their pictures out on smart phones, baffles me.

However you do it, keep it coming. And make the pictures bigger if you will, I just ordered an M1 and need to see your shot’s closer so I can copy you…

First bump.

Incredible. There is no way I would have the skill to modify lights to this sort of degree!

I am still a bit lost with how it will all come together in the end, but will be following this thread closely to watch it all unfold!

Sweet dreams and may the skin grow back. Was it burnt or cut flesh?

Check out my earlier mods. I haven’t done all that many. There’s a steep learning curve. Just try it. Screw up. Learn. Get better. It’s fun.

Sanded off holding the part between my fingers and spinning the sandpaper. Even calluses don’t last forever.

I like how various parts of the build look gruesomely ugly and then it beautifies in the end. :slight_smile: When I reflowed a 20mm Noctigon with MT-G2 onto the 7/8” diameter 1” long copper heat sink for my L2m, when it was done it was all one piece and working perfectly, but the heat really made the copper ugly, not to mention some flux overflow. lol

What’s the old saying “It all comes out in the wash.”

You’re off to a great start, have fun! :slight_smile:

Second bump.

I hope the masking tape is hiding bare flesh and not holding fingers on. There seems to be a thumb nail missing in that picture.
I dont have any hints for you at all boring holes out in little thin pieces of fragile steel. Looking good.

Index finger is missing the end. The tape was to protect them from the thin edges of the discs should it “grab” and spin I my grip. Ugly but it worked. The last few thou on each hole had to be done by reaming with the sanding drum.

You are one tough cookie.

Third bump.

I dont recall MTG-2 being mentioned and what a driver aye. You dont see BLF on many. Looking at it I got dizzy looking down from the top of the chips. Orsm.

It’s not often the led is as big as the driver but it’s just there for scale. It’s going in my Buck modded M1.

Fourth bump.