No. I just used the original 25mm aluminum star, reflowed the XM-L2 T6 in it then dedomed it using gasoline. For the thermal paste, I used Fujik. 
If you are getting only 4.57A with the solder blob over the resistor, try removing the resistor and jumping it with copper wire. On the ones I played with there were issues with the soldering of that resistor to the board, one light had pulsing issues another would not go above 4A with the resistor in place just badly flowed I think.
Removed it and jumpered the pads direct and I have had to use 26fs and thin wires to keep it around the 4.5A mark while I wait for a Noctigon and some other copper to beef up the heatsinking.
Yup dedomed it will be best VFM thrower out there
Hi xmint, yeah I have already removed the R200 resistor and there is just a drop of solder blob there, nothing else. It is a dedomed XM-L2 T6 now and it throws like mad, but as I said some issues is with the LED so I am going to change into better one.
Yeah you were saying you had a feeling about that before, it’s interesting to me that there’s a real measurable difference.
But then again I’m not surprised there’s a tradeoff in total output as a result of generating the extra red light that contributes towards the nicer tint.
Now the Courui has an alternative brand. What “fire” this time? It’s “”Kinfire”:http://dx.com/p/kinfire-kf-10-cree-xm-l2-900lm-3-mode-white-led-flashlight-torch-3-x-18650-291825#.UxH8v2KSypY “.
Since DX has already carried the original Courui brand big head flashlight I don’t know why do they need to carry another one just with different name, most importantly at a higher price.
It’s a bit more black! and and got a model number :8) surly worth more money for that alone 
Actually is it not a bit smaller? My Courui is 75mm wide while the kf-10 claims 60mm same length though
The head looks thinner just based on the pics. Hmm.
I just bought one of these. Copper pill will be forthcoming (After the light gets here from China).
Am i able to link the led pos and neg output wires from the origional driver to one of these drivers to boost the amps ?
This isn't a build yet, but I did a quickie test of the LD-36 driver from LCK In the COURUI.
All all I wanted to do was see if it fit and worked. I just hooked it to the stock emitter and stuck it in. I had to replace the wires with longer ones for reach.
It seems to fit. It's slightly raised on one edge, I'm not sure if it's the little press fit protrusions that need to be sanded, or if it's sitting on a chip. I'll inspect it closer when I start the build.
Anyway, it's tight and flush enough as is. I wouldn't worry about leaving it this way. I wasn't getting ground connectivity with the body so I did fast fix.
I stuck a copper head pin through a connecting hole on the ground ring and curled it around the ledge where the battery tube abuts.
Anyway, it works. I tested it with leads hooked up to two cells in series. Momentary switch works fine. Three modes, I didn't try the ramping as my hands were full and I didn't read the instructions.
Now that it's been tested and proven, I guess I'll have to figure out how to convert the cells to series.
Does anyone know the rating of the switch in this torch? I want to mod it to use 2 drivers in parallel but is it ok to put the power of 3x18650 through this switch before the drivers?
the switch in the head is only electronic momentary switch -not for cutting power to the driver!
it can handle some mA only
ouchy drilled the tailcap and added a power switch there
Thanks for that. Thinking about it now is it simple to replace the r200 with a tiny copper wire?
it’s fairly simple if you have a soldering iron of course…
Will have to try it tomorow, if it becomes around 4.5A i think thats a good balance, would be nice to keep that switch on it too
I remove the R200 resistor and put a solder blob across it, getting about 4.7A on high. Another member gets 5.8A by doing the same thing though. :cowboy_hat_face:
Makes sense! Will have to try it and give results tomorow
Replaced the r200 with a small blob of solder and now i get nothing. I tried replacing it with a small wire and also replaced the r200 and still doesnt work. Dont understand why was an easy soldering job any ideas?
Edit: its working now i tried again with a blob of solder but dont understand why it didnt at first :s
and when i say working it only works when the emitter shelf isnt screwed in? When the shelf is screwed in it is permenently turned on
IIRC its quite tight around the resistor pads check you have not shorted it to any other pad.
Check to see you are not shorting the star to the back of the reflector Kapton tape is your friend.