CLOSED! Group Buy: Starry Light SA-22 BLF Edition (NW emitter, better modes, faster PWM, BLF logo)

I`m in 1 pc. :bigsmile:

For 23$?
I´m seriously in for 1pcs,

possible for 2-3 but I have to ask couple of guys what they need.

Thanks again! 8)

I got the pre-production sample a couple of days ago, and have been using & testing it a lot.

This sample has still CW emitter, so I can't comment on the final tint yet. Modes and PWM changes are implemented in the new driver, but it doesn't have mode memory yet (= forgets in 2-3s, always starts on low)

My measurements confirm that the manufacturer has fully understood the mode and high PWM requirements:

Modes are 0.4 -> 4 -> 165 -> 592 lumens (OTF, after 30s) and the PWM is totally unnoticeable at 10kHz.

=> Very good!

Threads are a hot issue, so I have been testing & investigating them as thoroughly as I can. However, I can't say a definitive yes or no:

The threads are smooth, well lubed, and of a seemingly good quality. It's not easy at all to get them misthreaded. They still work fine after being opened & closed more than 100 times (yes, I have been opening and closing them many many times to see how they really work).

On the other hand, some possibilities to misuse the threads exists:

1. The head can be seated the wrong way around with some force. This will cause excessive force to the threads and might lead into thread failure => User must be careful not to do this.

2. Head can be tightened too tight, causing the threads to "jump". I did this on purpose five times, yet didn't manage to cause any visible damage to the threads.

Here's a photo of the threads after >100 opening & closing actions, and being overtightened five times:

Another angle of the threads (tube seam visible):

As a personal conclusion, I would be 100% confident to use this light without any problems. But there is a chance of user error, which is never a good thing, and should be prevented in the future models.

Here's a photo showing the head reversing protection. See the wide and narrow slot in the head vs. wide and narrow shoulder in the body tube. Narrow shoulder is a bit damaged due to my head reversing tests:

Yet another possibility for user error is the battery insertion direction (and the confusing marks):

Plus and arrow means that the positive end goes in to that direction. See photo below:

Luckily, reversing the batteries doesn't cause any damage to the light, as the head has a reverse polarity protection ring around the positive pole.

All in all, I'm ok with the quality of the sample, and will continue with the GB.

[Threads might still be an issue if giving the light to someone, who doesn't know or care how to use the light..]


Just ask if there's something I forgot to mention, or if you want to get more information of anything.

Looking good, I’m in for at least 1 then.

very cool ! thank you for your thorough review

Have you opened the Head? How looks the pill? How looks the driver?

Yes I have. The pill looks ok. It has a screw-in reflector and it's solid.

The bottom of the driver can be seen in the photo above. It's press fit with the brass retaining ring. Note that the driver contains also the battery connectors, so replacing it is not an option. Stripping electronics away and using it as contact plate would be doable. [But the GB driver is good -> no need to swap - at least I won't.. ;) ]

I would love to have one that always starts in low.

did you measure the runtime using fresh charged NIMH batteries?

Aye, runtimes! How are they?

How about working voltage?
How deep cells will be discharged?

Same here. I might go for two.

What is the lumen sag on high, startup to 30 secs to 5 and 10 minutes?

Also like others said runtime and how low will cells get discharged

Edit:
Thats also a lower high then i expected, whats the current draw for the modes?

Also what type of driver is it, linear or buck?

I for one would not want one if it ALWAYS started in low.

When memory gets added in the final production, you will have to remember to switch it to low mode for it to come on in low.

Best of both worlds. At least I hope that's the way it's gonna be.

Same as above, always starting in low would be a pain if you always use it on high/med or need to illuminate something quickly (firefighter/security/police) without fiddling around with the modes.

If low is your most preferred mode then just leave it on low and it will stay on low.

I prefer starting on low every time, then i don’t have to remember what mode i let if on and get blasted by too many lumens in a small space later. However i can see your point of certain occupations or circumstances where mode memory would be a good thing.

Not saying starting in high is good either (or mid) but mode memory is a compromise of all of them.

For a small EDC starting always on low would be OK, I like it on my AAA and AA DQG lights.

the sample is still test type isn’t?i hope there is a solution for fixing this amnesiac driver :~

As the others have asked, the highest output only has 592 OTF lumens?

Always starts on low… is it “moonlight (0.4lm)” or “low (4lm)” to be exact?

Thanks and it’s getting more interesting!

If Ive read this correctly, and Im not rereading the thread so if I missed it, my apologies.
The TEST sample has no memory. But the one being discussed for the GB should have memory. It is one of the options requested by _ the _.

From the OP

“…- 4 modes, LL-L-M-H (0.2, 2, 25, 100), with memory, no blinky modes!”

As I understand that, the lowest mode is moonlight or similar being .2. And if high is 500lumens, then LL @. 2 (low low) is 1 lumen. (500*.2/100)