Teardown and Mod Thread of Courui XML2 Aka "Big Head 3x18650 Side-Switch Thrower"

IIRC its quite tight around the resistor pads check you have not shorted it to any other pad.

Check to see you are not shorting the star to the back of the reflector Kapton tape is your friend.

Sounds like shorting in somewhere. I’ve had the permanently on problem too and it takes quite some time to diagnose.

Your problem occurs with/without putting on the reflector? Did you notice any smoke came out from the LED when it is on? Other than that you can also check the connectivity of your LED using a DMM. You need to check the +ve pad with the -ve pad, +ve pad with the LED star base, and -ve pad with the LED star base.

EDIT: Oh crap, my LED still on when it was switched off. I realized that it is not because of the LED but something to do with the driver. I have spent too many hours diagnosing this issue but still cannot figure out a solution, think I am going to create a new thread asking for help. :_(

I never found out what was shorting but it managed to fix itself and then me being and moron threaded the reflector back on not checking the centering ring and shorted across the reflector and blew the blard but im not too fussed got other plans for it now

Just finished filing the reflector base of my T08. What did you do to remove the dust particles from the inside of the reflector? It seem that blowing as hard as I can ain’t enough. :stuck_out_tongue:

Filing the base of the T08 reflector did increase the lux by 8%. I’m only getting 151kcd before. After the filing, its 163kcd. I would just leave the micro dust particle as it is for now. I can’t risk another damaged reflector.

Next mod is the Courui. J)

Try to wash it with water+some liquid soap (do not touch it with anything,just let the water flow).After that rinse it with pure alcohol and dry it with hairdryer(dry it from outside!).Oven would be probably better(no moving air-less dust).I tried this few days ago.I had one reflector with a lot of dust,and even some grease-like spots.It worked much better than I thought,reflector is now almost like new.

Thanx. But I’d rather not put it inside the oven. The T08 reflector is made of plastic. :bigsmile:

Just finished washing the reflector with warm water and hand soap solution. The result is a good as new reflector after drying it in front of the fan. Thanx for the tip led4power! :beer:

As led4power said, wash it with water will do. I just bought a ball blower like this . Not sure if it is strong enough to blow away the dust and particles on the reflector, never tried yet.

…but since I have washed it quite many times already my T08 reflector is damaged and scratches are everywhere now, perhaps it doesn’t do 190~200kcd anymore. :bigsmile:

I guess too much of anything is not a good thing. :bigsmile:

Total newbie here, though tinkering with electronics for many years.

I just bought 2 of these (no name) for $40 US delivered.
I may be naive, but I just want to use these as a housing
and put in a new driver, springs, etc.

Would this driver do a good job in this light? Looks like it will fit.
http://www.fasttech.com/products/1612/10003372/1278501

V10+ 2.7~4.5V XML-T6 4-Group 1/3/4-Mode + 1~100
Ramping LED Driver Board 5000mA / overheat protection (55-60℃)
FastTech’s test results: 4/23/2013: 4450mA @ 4.2V
I hope to get about 1200 lms.

I hope to use with EBL 2600ma cells. Paid around $2 each new. Normally close to 3.

Comment on these cells from Amazon.
This review is from: EBL® 4 Pack 18650 3.7V 2600mAh Rechargeable li-ion Battery
These batteries supply my Itaste VTR vape stick. Each battery lasts for over a week before the scale says it has even moved from the full charge.

This leads me to believe the capacity is there and the ability to supply at least 3A per cell.

1 more question.
Anyone suggest a nice holster for this light?

I can’t comment on the batteries, but the ‘V10’ driver is rubbish. Quite a few people got them when they came out, myself included, & they fell way below their rated output, & had a ‘clunky’ UI.

Look into the FET based drivers that have been developed here by BLF members. You can throw one together yourself from parts, or get one ready to go at Mountain Electronics

40$ per piece or for both?
2$ battery is with a high chance junk.
V10 is definitely junk and not made for eswitches

You need a driver for a momentary switch. There are lot of customs programmed drivers available, nanjg, nanjg with stacked chips or like above suggested aFET driver….

If you need cheap batteries and don’t need them quick check this thread:Suspiciously cheap Samsung 4.35v 3200mah from DX. (SOLD OUT) UPDATE : RECEIVED REFUND FROM DX!
If you want quality and are able to pay 15$ per pair than you will have a wide variety of quality cells available.

LOL, always more to learn.

Thanks FmC

I looked at the FET drivers.

For ME they are a poor choice though there was one combination 4*7135/FET driver that looked interesting.

I prefer a regulated driver @ no more than 4.5A. 12*7135 might work well.
This will allow me to not have to modify the heat sink too much, keep light output more constant,
and still get around 1200 lumens which is enough for me.

I’m not trying to make a superlight, just a reliable, economical one with excellent throw.
If it matches my EAW8 I’ll be happy.

I think I’ll wait until the lights arrive in a month or so and see what needs to be done
before I make any changes and shoot off my mouth here.

It will only be regulated as long as the battery voltage stays above the LED's forward voltage required to do that current level. 4.5A needs around 3.7-3.8 volts. Starting from only 4.2v no-load that's not a lot of runtime before it starts dimming.

Guten tag Werner,

Thanks for the link on the Samsung 32A’s Cheaper than my supplier by .74 USD.
Lights were $19.99 ea.
I don’t know if I’m allowed to put links here, but I’ll post them and a mod can remove them with my apologies and promise to never do it again.
http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Outdoor-Camping-1000LM-Led-Flashlight-3-Modes-High-Mid-Strobe-1x-Cree-XML-T6-Mini-Portable/1964480381.html
Emailed Bella about the lens. Her response below.

About the UCL Lenses, I think you have a misunderstand with it.
UCL means Ultra clear lens, it usually made by resin instead of glass.
It is a new material for lenses.
Actually, Lenses made by UCL is more lighter than glass, and it is not easy be crashed.
As the impact resistance of UCL lenses is better.
The transmission of light of UCL is equally to glass lenses. (not true: 97 vs 99%)

FlashlightLens.com - Your source for high quality glass and acrylic flashlight lenses. - Flashlightlens.com - Online Store shows an acrylic 73mm lens for $8.25.
What is an acrylic resin? What is Acrylic Resin? (with pictures)
Another light I just ordered and 1 I ordered from Lisa before.

http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Super-Bright-4500LM-Tactical-Flashlight-3x-Cree-XM-L-T6-LED-5-Mode-Hunting-Torch-Light/1606104769.html
Hope it’s a good “flood” light. Only uses 1 26650 or 18650, but very compact. $26.73

http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Top-Quality-Waterproof-Hand-Torch-2000-Lumens-Cree-XML-T6-5-Mode-Rechargeable-Portable-Self-defense/1569184568.html
I paid $23.58 on sale. Very bright, well focused thrower.
Also ordered a Convoy C8 8*7135 XM-L2 T6-3B from Simon at Aliexpress. $17.80

Damm, this adds up fast, but considering I just bought my girlfriend a new Honda I guess I’m allowed my simple pleasures.

I actually wrote the response below to FmC much earlier today, then had to take a friend to the doctor before clicking save.

Actually EBL is a very reputable company with their AA/AAA NiMh cells outperforming generation 1-3 Eneloops for capacity. (not the XXX)
Cycles rechargeable. . . . not enough data yet.
The reason I got the 18650’s so cheap is that the seller (Aibocn) messed up the shipment and when I called them on it they shipped me a new order for free, letting me keep the partial order.

I can get various Sony, LG, Samsung, Efest, MNKE 25-2600mah 18650’s in the $4-5 ea range
ex: Samsung ICR 18650-26F 2600mah $2.84, ICR cells which should take more charges,
or buy the Acer laptop batteries described in a thread elsewhere here and recover the individual Samsung 2600mah cells for ~ $2 ea.
Considering the cost benefit ratio of a $2.80 EBL, at full retail, in 8 packs, or Samsung ICR 26F @$2.84 2600mah vs a $6.84 3100mah Efest cell (remember I only need 1.5A continuous) I’ll take the cheaper and carry a spare cell.

All above are unprotected cells and I know the dangers, and always check, and match my cells using a Nitecore D4, fluke DVM and Dale discharge resistors feeding my PC’s serial port so I can see what’s going on.

Thanks comfychair.

Forgot this is a parallel battery setup, not series with higher voltage.
OK, FET drive sounds like the way to go.
I’m going to wait, read this thread several times more, then make some decisions.

One other thing, this is an XM-L T6, not an XM-L2 light.

So now I wait. Thanks to all. I have now retired from the field.

AFAIK Bella has no current draw, driver info, etc. on this light.
I just took a chance. Hopefully it will make a good host.

Nationalism is an infantile disease. It is the measles of mankind.

Albert Einstein

The Courui big head flashlight I received from KD comes with XM-L2, so as the other members I believe.

Nice looking light. the first thing i would do is remove that tail-end wire, and mod in a tailcap switch for a Lockout when off.

That’s why I posted what I did. That way no disappointed members.
I did read the entire thread, but my memory is not what it used to be.
Fortunately other parts work better.