I meant the stock white button for changing modes. The big selling point of this light, for me, was the “no worries of it going into any other mode” feature. But no doubt, what you have is even more awesome (please do some beamshots!)
Sure - the whole point was to utilize that switch. The tail switch now is simply is a "lock-out". Everything can be done on the side switch, but nice to have total power cutoff with the tail switch.
Do you have any suggestions for a small, floody e-switch light which could use a similar firmware? (and any extra parts required to get it all working)
I’m hoping to make one which uses an e-switch to control PWM speed in very small increments, to make a variable-speed strobe light. I think a UF-T50 might be a good starting point, but I haven’t figured out where to go from there. (my background is in software, not hardware)
The Small Sun ZY-T29 or ZY-T11 clones. I bought this one: http://www.banggood.com/CREE-XM-L-T6-1800lm-5-Modes-Zoomable-LED-Flashlight-Black-p-80813.html, but received the UltraFire, but it's the same thing. Cheap - I modded it to 3.5A, XM-L2 U2 1A on a Noctigon, with the e-switch custom firmware. The XP-11 at WallBuys.com I've also mod'ed but it's a different setup internally. Check out the T29 and T11 threads for details. The Small Suns have plastic lens reflectors unfortunately, at least at the time, but the UltraFire and Aleto's don't.
It's certainly not a simple mod - ZY-T11/ZY-T29 require to piggyback a Nanjg onto the existing driver because of the switch mounted on the stock driver. For the XP-11, the stock driver can be tossed and replaced with a Nanjg, but wiring in the e-switch can be a challenge, unless you are ok with very fine soldering.
Chris at flashlightlens.com-UCLp_AR just listed a new size I requested for a UCLp: 56.8mm x 2.25 mm, that I requested. He'll basically do any size upon request for the UCLp, not the glass UCL. The stock lens on the Yezl Y3 is 56.8 mm wide and 2.04 mm thick. I'm assuming the 0.21 mm extra width will be ok, specially when swapping out the stock LED for a XM-L2 on copper, because it's slightly thinner. I'll be ordering one to try it out.
Thanks! The ZY-T29 looks really promising. I think I can probably cram an extra board in there, though I’ll want to make sure it’s easy to get at for re-flashing. I don’t recall what extra parts are needed to flash the driver, but I think I saved links for it somewhere.
It has been too long since I got to write any firmware or other low-level code. Hopefully it’ll be reasonably straightforward to mess with the PWM timings to make a good strobe.
I just ordered one, does anyone have a 26650 battery to recommend?
Also, is the 18650 sleeve (and a battery) that comes with some AAA lights adequate for using in a 26650 light, at least for light (lite) use?
Let me ask something else, if I only intend to use this light to play around for 10 or 15 minutes, and am not in any rush to get into 26650s, will my 3400 panas be enough for my purposes?
Mine didn’t come with the 18650 sleeve, but most others said theirs did. A 3 or 4xAAA configuration should work fine, and at least for a short while, should have not too much worse output since this is a regulated 2.5 amp torch.
I have used a Pana3400 and it’s just great. Just slightly less capacity than the 26650. Same performance as far as I can see.
Think it should. I got a few protected 26650's of similar size, so could try tonight, if I remember (). I only use unprotected cells in one cell lights.
I have that exact cell and it fit, no problem. Tried a TF Flame 26650 and a KeepPower Protected 26650 and the also fit. The KeepPowers have trouble fitting in a J12 in width, but easily fit in the Y3.
No direct experience with any of those, except if the KK Protected one is from RMM/MtnElectronics -- that one seems pretty good. I'd love to try one of those 4500 's though, or at least see a review.
Pros:
+Great UI. H-M-L with mode memory and hidden strobe.
+Electronic side switch- Yes it’s more complex, but ergonomically it adds so much
+Flexible battery options- 1 2 or 3 18650s or 26650s pretty much rules.
Cons:
-Maybe a touch under driven for folks like us. Regulated at about 10W so about 2.5a with one cell and 1.25 with two cells.
-Dry threads
And the biggest con:
-Just too close to being perfect. I know that I’ll try to modify it and ruin it. Maybe I should just order a second one now?
All I want is a measly 40-50% increase in current! Is that so much to ask? /s
I’d love to mess around with those drivers with the STAR firmware, but I can’t give up the multi-cell capability. Any drivers that have a wide range of voltage inputs also don’t have (apparently) support for the e-switch.
I think I’ll have to try a resistor mod. Based on Tom’s experimentation, a resistor mod might not be that useful when there is only 1 cell. I could live with that. I’m thinking I’ll bridge the resistor bank with an R200.
I’ve never soldered surface mount resistors before. Any tips? Do you use a flux pen or something?