Good to hear that the copper pills fit!
Thanks for the comparison OL!
Damn it, i was hoping for Missfire. 
I went to watch the review but it froze part way, YT must be busy. Will try gain later. Thanks OL. Nice to know I can use the pill with which ever is chosen. And I too prefer the blank one to either of the xxxfire. I think I prefer the blank look.
Thanks, O-L, for all your work on this. I’m liking the no-name, and even with the “lottery” chances, I’ll bet performance is super nice.
With the copper spring trick, what kind of output are you getting from the torches over the original way they arrived? I’m thinking, even with different current draws, you may not be seeing too much brightness difference (except for the one with the loose spring issue).
Nice video and it’s like i thought: There might be just one or two factories in China who is manufacturing all different C8, C10, HD201 and whatsoever flashlights. In the end there is some “labelling” and off you go!
thanks for the review - the FF looks like a winner
any idea on final price?
I got several brands of HD 2010's as well, and always found the same thing with the tailcap spring. It makes a lot of sense though at that level of amps (low resistance cell, direct drive). It's pretty much the golden rule - tailcap spring is priority #1 for direct drive lights, if you really want more amps. But of course it's a bad combo at those 5A+ levels on an aluminum star that's not so well mounted. I've twisted LED's right off the star from loosened solder because of very high temps there.
The Yezl Y3 (single cell) is the only light to come along that I'd recommend now over the HD 2010, basically same size, same price, and single 26650 driven. The Yezl Y3 is true regulated at 2.5A, uni-pill, but still throws at 62 kcd I measured, and 874 OTF lumens. For a stock HD 2010, you don't really gain much output going to much higher amps because of significant heat sag on the stock XML on aluminum.
Just issues to keep in mind going high amps with XML's on poor aluminum stars...
Also as an fyi, from many experiences doing copper wiring of tailcap springs, I've found in the light box that most of the time, you get back nearly 100% of the tailcap loss's from copper braiding the spring. Sometimes as low as 75% (poor design grounds in tailcaps), other times it actually measures higher than 100%. This is comparing taking a heavy 12 gauge wire and grounding the battery to the tube, vs. the assembled light with the spring copper braided, both tests done in the light box. With the HD 2010's, I believe it's 90-100% from what I recall.
Very interesting.
Thanks for the video.
Right on. Thanks for the video and effort OL! Gotta get me one of those and I gotta have one of those copper pills. Nice.
For the people that are not going to do modification I would say FandyFire is the way to go.
I personally would take NoName version (pity they don’t offer logo engraving, would be nice to have BLFire HD2010 :bigsmile: ).
P.S. where did you find that copper pill? Quick search on tmart website didn’t find anything, how much $ would that be?
Thanks
A member made them, had them made, not sure which. But I bought one of the last 2. Pretty sure they all went.
Theres been a few of these runs done for various lights it seems.
Ah, yes, you are right. Thanks.
They looked familiar but I totally forgot where I saw them -> here is the thread
$20 a pop, without shipping…
Thanks, Serius9. I also saved this post from Bucket
I am buried in half finished/ half started products but plan on an HD2010 modded of course, most likely with a FET driver from Mountain Electronics. So copper will be obligatory.
if I had a lathe, I would strip the threads from inside of the flashlights head (the threads for pill) and make that surface as flat & shiny as possible, then I would make bigger smooth pill, without the threads and just press fit them together. I bet the heat transfer would be noticable better that way.
That has to be saved for the next logo-engraved group buy. 
Correct but would make tuning the reflector to the correct height for the best beam difficult.
If any of you experienced modders could think of a few quick fixes for the chosen model, I’ll bet that more than a few of us non-modders would pay you to “fix” the chosen model for us.
I know I would!
Link please?
Here you go Ejected Filament, FET Driver
Lots of good stuff and you can talk to the owner Richard, AKA; RMM here.
Lots of goodies to burn through your wallet.
Thankyou, now to work out if its what I want to use.
I know what you mean. I am now trying to decide between the HD2010 that I want and the Supfire M6 from Mtnelectronics that I also want. The kicker is I can get only one. (without getting in trouble with my budget as the over-time well has dried up)