100% agreed, NO torque whatsoever! Either a light touch to keep up the RPM’s or it bogs down BAAAAAAAD!
I think I might snag that red one vs the little $6 rotary tool from HF that I have…just doesn’t “cut” it 
Oh and I thought I would just throw this in because 
JonnyC, I think putting bolts in there is not a great idea as they would make contact with the reflector, causing the reflector not being able to sit down lower.
From your last picture the light appears to be whitish, is that what it is or it is just the camera setting? Because a dedomed LED should have yellowish (neutral) tint.
It's a lot warmer than it looks - that photo was just taken with my phone.
Actually, the bolts sit about as high as the solder connections, which I filed down. Either way you need to take material off of the reflector to get it to sit down far enough.
Those solder connections still look like they could be flattened out quite a bit. Lately I've been using a hot iron, some flux, and a flat blade screw driver to get them extremely flat. Take the iron and heat the fluxed joint until it's hot (silicone wire makes this MUCH easier!) then quickly follow up with your screwdriver to flatten it out. With the flux and hot iron the wires will flatten out over the pad fairly easily. You can then take a sharp blade and trim the insulation on the top of the wire (the silicone downside) so it is much thinner. I generally trim it to the wire, or close to the wire, then use an insulating gasket. Those bolt heads look like it would take a lot of extra clearance to get the reflector flat.
I have modded one Shocker and I got the solder joint down real flat and the reflector was able to sit in deep enough just as stock. I did not remove any material from the reflector.
By the way what gauge of wires did you use? I use 22AWG and they are thin enough to allow the reflector sit down more while still able to deliver 5.5A to each LED. The LED and reflector positioning part can be tricky, I cannot be assured that I will do this right for the second time though.
I should have gone with 22 awg, but I used 20 awg silicone (which is a bit thicker).
I admit I didn’t read all the replies, but I chose not to because I want to give my own opinion before I’m skewed by those who are probably more experienced/biased, but I as a flashlight guy who’s been doing this stuff for a few years have come to the realisation that the “wow” factor wears off very quickly when the limitations and cost and other caveats come into play.
I like lights that work every time, for a long time, and provide a long term impression of the thought and foresight that went into their creation.
A big bang followed by a big frustration is fun for those of us that are always learning. Not so fun for everyone else.
Hope that makes sense.
This thread makes me want a shocker. Just don’t know if I want to make that jump to a multicell series light yet…
That 3rd wire is meaningless - it can be removed. It's been posted about - think EMI related or something? I've never used any LED coating on de-domes and never had a problem - several lights for months now and I don't care for losing output and throw because all coatings WILL cause loss's, and not sure it really protects the LED surface from anything. Also, I haven't found it necessary to screw down the MCPCB's, but in theory it should help in heat sinking, but I'd be concerned of not getting the positioning right because you are very committed to getting the position perfect -- maybe beyond my ability...
I'm thinking you went down the more difficult path on this mod, but the screws could help, but for me would be hard/risky.
Thanks Tom. I do recall the EMI thing being mentioned before now, phew. I went the route of screwing them down because if I switched emitters I didn't want to have to remove the adhesive and have to polish the surface again. In order to get them aligned I flipped the reflector upside down, set the LEDs in them with a dab of thermal paste on the backs, then set the heatsink down. Lifted the reflector off, marked the spots and drilled/tapped holes. Lightly screwed down the LEDs, set the reflector down again to center them, took it off and tightened them down.
Hhmm, pretty nice method. I just roughly position the LED's, use AS5, wire them up, then when assembling with the reflector after tightening it down good with the reflector screw, I use a piece of tape on the side to match up to one of the LED's, then carefully monitor the reflector doesn't rotate much. It's been working out pretty well, but it makes the bezel tightening tricky. It's so much better when there are at least 2 screws holding down the reflector then there's no worries the reflector will twist.
I've seen other guys using shrink wrap sleeves over the LED wires near the ends, where they would rub against the drilled holes in the pill top (vinh) - really good idea to minimize chance of slicing the soft silicone wire coating (this has happened to me several times 
).
I broke my one and only properly sized tap. Do you have details of what size tap, what size drill bit, and screws you use? Where to get the taps or tap set? I've done a couple of lights with taping hold down screws on MCPCB's, but really not sure what I'm doing...
I use a M3 x .50 tap (I think this one? http://www.mcmaster.com/#26475a34/=r5vox6) with screws found at my local hardware store. I can't read the drill bit anymore, but it should be 2.5mm. I really didn't need to go metric though, as it's rather spendy.
I might get around to working on this again tonight. The heatshrink is a good idea. Maybe I will redo my wiring.
EDIT: Do you use the centering rings?
That is hell lots of works Jonny! 
Oh, side note, I actually got lucky drilling the holes. It was a good thing they were drilled where they were, because as I was drilling the first one, I looked down and noticed that a little bit further to the outside and I would have drilled right through to the cooling fins. That would have been a horribly stupid mistake. Where I drilled it didn't go through to the driver pocket or exit outside the light, phew!
Thanx for the info on the tapping. Yes, I use the stock centering rings and have not found any exact replacement - even ones from RIC which he said were replacements were not the correct size. I've got a few cracked centering rings -- very frustrating... I could get buy with using ones slightly smaller - those I have.
Just thought I'd add my results to this thread. I just finished a BTU Shocker mod, very similar to what you all have built.
Fresh Sony VTC4s give 6.38A at the tailcap. Here are the lumen readings:
4856 lumens at startup
4436 lumens at 30 seconds.
4316 lumens at 60 seconds.
Richard - I don't get it - you got 12v coming from the cells, so....... ??? A zener modded 105C can take that?
Tom, apparently it can. I don't know if I'd try it with 7135s, but with the FET it's working great. I've run it for a few hours on low mode along with 15 minutes straight on high.
Wow - the amps and lumen results are fantastic, but I thought an Atmel Tiny13A was rated for 6V max and pretty sure you got 12v feeding it. Not sure bout the other parts. There is of course a big drop off in the first 30 secs - probably good multiple reasons for that at these levels. Hhmmm..... All I can think of some applicable quotes, depending on how it goes:
Dr. Peter Venkman: Egon, this reminds me of the time you tried to drill a hole through your head. Remember that?
Dr. Egon Spengler: That would have worked if you hadn’t stopped me.
Dr Ray Stantz: Fire and brimstone coming down from the skies. Rivers and seas boiling.
Dr. Egon Spengler: Forty years of darkness. Earthquakes, volcanoes…
Winston Zeddemore: The dead rising from the grave.
Dr. Peter Venkman: Human sacrifice, dogs and cats living together – mass hysteria.
I think we can handle the 40 years of darkness thing pretty well... 
It is, but that's what the zener mod does. It drops the voltage that the MCU sees, that's all. The MOSFET sees the full 12 volts but it doesn't care about that.
I'm not as old as you but I still got that quote! 
Classic.