This is one of my AX2003 board in EAGLE. Dropbox - 22MM_2.5A_104R.zip - Simplify your life You may download and have a trial.
Please note that the bottom layer is the ground which work as a thermal pad.
If you want batt+ front, batt- rear, it seems like a waste to pay oshppark for that. Pretty much just a couple sheet metal or copper plates with springs.
What will be used as the supports / pillars. I’ve been thinking about what could be used that should be commonly available anywhere.
An easier rule of thumb (at least the one I follow) is that as soon as your 3x boards from Oshpark hit just above the $10 mark, you’re better moving over to iTead, where that $10 (a bit more because they charge shipping) will get you 10x copies instead.
With parallel? Isolation is easy, no?
Maybe I’m cheap? PCBs certainly looks better & more finished. $9 for 4xAA top plates +$9 for bottoms. Pushed mine down to $7.45 if its squared off a bit.
Sorry if that came across as abrupt but your description of two metal plates was a bit lacking in detail. Sure I could make something and often do but other times it’s nice to have it already done. There are several more options I’d like to see as well and I like your use of solid wire to beef up the vias.
I could really use some generic SMD switch PCBs. Isn't the lead spacing pretty close on all the various common switches, or close enough that the pads could be enlarged to make it compatible with nearly everything? I'm only familiar with what fits into SRKs and their clones, are there other lights that use larger PCBs, such that it might make sense to do a larger universal board with silkscreened cut lines for the various ODs?
With the SRK drivers with piggybacked 105Cs I always add two pins on the back of the switch board, and then put connectors on the ends of the wires because it's too much trouble (or impossible) to unsolder the wires from the driver.
What are these connectors called? They're used for all kinds of things but I have no idea what their proper name is...
It has 3mm holes (actually via's) so that I can solder 3mm brass rods in, but other materials can be used if you use screws (even M3 threaded rod can be used with nuts), the rods are not part of the electrical path (apart from that they are connected to batt - )
. I use brass tube for a ton of things as it can be tapped inside or threaded outside and there are nylon bushings available at the hardware store to use as insulated spacers. Also threaded nylon screws can be had in 6-32and 8-32. The nylon is nice in that you can solder near it without it melting or deforming which is why I use it for the sleeve over 7135 stacks.
Made a tact switch (button) board. Standard 2.54 mm header pins fit on the back. Semi-universal as far as 4 pin buttons go. 4x4 - 6x6mm smd and through hole 6x6 should fit.
12mm dia with 10mm silkscreen guide. Any particular diameters wanted? So that cutting isn’t needed much.
Also did an smd only version with tiny tented (soldermask covered) vias. Set it in with RTV silicone around the edge and it should block water from entering the driver cavity.
2.54mm header pins. 2.54mm (0.1”) is standard pitch / pin spacing. There are also 2.54mm machine header pins (round pins) which usually cost a bit more. Normal (square) pins won’t fit into female machine pin connectors.
You can also get XH2.54 connectors. Same pins but shrouded & keyed to prevent plugging in backwards.
Cool! :beer: So that's 12mm square, and 10mm at the ring?
edit: Erm, I just now measured the SRK switch hole, the ID is .480"/12.2mm... so either 12mm round or add a second cut line outboard at 12mm. I can't cut/file (or even draw!) a circle freehand that ends up even marginally round to save my life.
edit2: The nicer/genuine SRKs have a 1mm o-ring behind the switch PCB in the bottom of the bore, the cheap ones don't even try.