Was just using my SR3800 when it suddenly shut off. Something is wrong, coz it is just a couple of warm 2-3 min runs testing the lux and the batteries are XTAR 2600/Solarforce/TF Flames/Panny.
Did a tailcap measurement and noticed the amps ramp up and then down very fast, probably tripping the PCB. Fearing the worst, i took out the retaining ring for the driver and pulled out the driver.
Lots of transistor burn smell, the thing wasn't really hot even. So i guess it is toast. Pulled out the -ve and +ve wire and tried to use 2 x AA to see if the thing lights, well not even a flash.
It has been a fun run of about 20hrs. Careful guys, use good cells with good PCB.
You'll have to find a new driver which isn't trivial for this kind of light. You can perhaps find out if it's parallel and maybe get a sst driver for it.. The host isn't worth all that much since the similar tr-1200 is like $10.
What you think killed it? I just got my Panasonic 2900's from HKE today and put them in my 3800 even tho they are unprotected. Think i should switch to the HiMax 2600 protected cells?
BTW check out the stickied 3800 review at the top of the page in the 18650 cell section, I think you will find my last post most interesting.
If you weren't so far away and not a modder id be trying to buy that paper weight from you as im just looking for a good excuse to mod something and i cant decide where to start yet.
(Edit) I guess my post in the 3800 review isnt the big news i thought it was, But i ended up being lucky none the less.
Dasfriek.....well, actually with this turn of events that mitro's and my drivers went toast suddenly, I think better change to protected batteries. What happens is that within 0.1s of the driver failing, the PCB would cut the current and prevent a thermal runaway in the cell. No problem, not really heartpain, in fact it is good that I had the Xtar 2600 inside.
You can still use the NCR18650s, they are very safe. Just that you need to be aware that when a light suddenly cuts, you need to immediately cut the power at the tailcap. Also do not use magnets with them as they might shift and cause a short. A blob of solder and filed down flat is much safer.
But the protected cells didn't protect your light??? I still don't think you necessarily fried the xml's. To kill them in para requries >15 amps, surely some trace on the driver would go short before the emitters do.
Yeah this light was sure fun and it is easily the longest running and best tested in my whole range..
And the best thing is, Agenthex is right, it is run in series. I am able to get the head to light again with 2 x 18650. So I'll just ask MF's Audrey for a replacement driver, well at least i did testing and advertising for them. LOL!
You should be fine. During testing, I pushed 8 amps through 3 xm-l's in series from 4 26650 LifeP04's DD. Granted, it was only for a second until my fingers could react to what my eyes just saw, but all the emitters lived.
Ok no issue then. Thinking of leaving this "as it is" to play and getting the Trustfire 3xT6. Lots of threads + lots of external fins, 7 of them vs 3 on Sky Ray/Hi-Max/Fandyfire.
Actually I am using SLA to play now, no issue. 4S1P is definitely too high. I guess in stock form, it is not a matter of LEDs surviving but rather the driver electronics surviving. From what we can see only the lower PCB is somewhat heatsinked.
Direct drive with a fully charged SLA measured 2.2A to the emitters in series, i am getting 324 lux @ 8.17m. 21626 lux @ 1m, or candlepower.
Using slightly larger diameter wires on one of the them i could do 2.8A, giving me 360 lux @ 8.17m. 24029 lux @ 1m. This thing comfortably outthrows stock C8/UF-980L/U80.
Update, i pushed 3.3A and got 380 lux, that's the max. Head gets hot really fast.
Stock SR3800 is 260 lux @ 8.17m.
Engrotelis measured 1580 OTF lumens in his lightbox (he said his is pretty accurate). If that's the case 380 lux / 260 lux = 2309 lumens OTF.
Sorry to hear yours is dead too, 2100. I took mine all apart and the LEDs appear to be fine. I guess I need to find a suitable driver but I'm not sure I want to bother.
3S would drive it to approx 1.9-2.2A depending on charge level (12.4V-12.6V unloaded).