PC = phase correct (9.4kHz, 'TCCR0A = 0x21'), FP = fast PWM (19kHz, 'TCCR0A = 0x23'). Levels for both are 0,2,6,18,54,130,255. Both turn on and off and change modes exactly like they should. The phase correct board makes a slight whine on level 4, moderately loud whine on level 5. Fast PWM board is silent.
Why do these boards work fine without the gate/pulldown resistors? These are the exact same components used on the 17DD, which does not work without the resistors.
Thus I think STAR V1.1 and a timeout is the safest way to go
And/or have a approx 50% PWM always on…this way you don’t just run it wide open, I wouldn’t use that battery, it has vented…just not “explosively” yet!
Being an IMR battery it is unlikely to vent explosively, obviously something has happened to it, but it just now was still able to deliver 3.5A to the light. But I guess you are right, I will stop using the battery and dispose it .
I successfully rewrote my UI! I made a new .hex file for the BLFTiny10 that replaces the 255 Turbo with 190, and the previous High setting with 90. After flashing the little guy I ran it through on the IMR10440 and it does .03, .31, 1.16, and 2.20. Perfect!
My TP has a Nichia emitter in it, don’t think it could’ve handled the full out direct drive. So now I get to try to make a contact pad over the FET and diode and then see if I can put it in my light. This is exciting!
Woohoo! I now have a BLF Tiny10 FET in my Texas Poker! It’s running, from an IMR10440 at 4.15V, 3.45 Lumens a .02A, 34.50 Lumens at .18A, 127.65 Lumens at .67A and 262.20 Lumens at 1.40A! Finally!
I had changed the driver in it before to get 188 lumens OTF, at 1.1A. So I’ve nearly doubled it’s output level on High or Turbo now, as it has 4 levels now to pick from. I’m stoked!
Thanks Matt, for all your help, and Scott…this little FET is the charm we’ve been looking for for almost a year!
And the cool thing here? I’ve got the FET running at 75%! Can change it at will now, thanks to a lot of folks here that took the time to show me how, and got to laugh at me while I stumbled through it all.
Is it known if there’s any adverse reaction to controlling the FET through the firmware? Say, setting max to 75? This is how I’m running my TP and it seems to be fine. And of course, the flashaholic in me really wants to find out what 80 looks like…90?
Which firmware? Fast PWM or phase correct? (if it's one of the STAR versions and you didn't change it on purpose, it's using fast PWM, hence why it doesn't squeal like a stuck pig). ;)
Is this on a copper sink pad or regular PCB material?
wow…all that XM-L goodness and head on 16mm…wow!
With a FET build I would be afraid to touch this thing off w/o having some sort of big ole honkerin’ chunk of copper/aluminum under it otherwise it WOULD become a torch fwoooosh
Still crazy cool…
Is there an optic on the planet for this thing? (ooh…maybe under an aspheric on a SK98 zoomie)
Regular PCB material, it has a bunch of vias underneath the XM-L to help with the heat problem. And it is a 20mm board. No optics available for this, I just run it as a mule in a P60 build. With a peltier plate for cooling and a desktop power supply it peaked at 26 amps. I think I may have been maxing out my power supplies though, so eventually I plan on giving it another shot.
This is the first one I managed to get installed in a light. 1.2uH inductor, no electrolytic cap. Levels of 2,6,18,54,130,255, and I shortened the long press time from 32 to 15.
Anyone ever tried to dissolve the fiberglass PCB board under these above PCB “stars” and figure out a way to bond the overlays/traces to a hunk of metal?
It's in the one using the 6x parts. I have no idea what the current is, I don't have a meter that goes that high. On one 20R I get a reading of around 8.5A, but it gets significantly brighter when I bypass the meter by shorting the two leads together, so who knows what it's really doing.
I use an old SRK PCB to set the limiter on the drill press, then cut the solder down so it comes out the same thickness.