Oshpark Projects

Anyone ever tried to dissolve the fiberglass PCB board under these above PCB “stars” and figure out a way to bond the overlays/traces to a hunk of metal?

It's in the one using the 6x parts. I have no idea what the current is, I don't have a meter that goes that high. On one 20R I get a reading of around 8.5A, but it gets significantly brighter when I bypass the meter by shorting the two leads together, so who knows what it's really doing.

I use an old SRK PCB to set the limiter on the drill press, then cut the solder down so it comes out the same thickness.

Thanks WH, I am actually going to order one of these, not to build scaru's monster but to make a moderately run efficient mule as a destination for the many last gen. xml's I have in the spare leds box.

What kind of light pattern does one expect from a “mule” [which is a reflector-less head correct]

Just a big ol’ wad of light or is there any rhyme or reason to it?

The SRK driver doesn't need the resistors, though I have no idea why. They work beautifully without them just like all the earlier test versions do/did. So that leaves the only alteration being the switch pad redesign, which really isn't necessary. The way I settled on doing it is to strip about double the length of insulation off the positive switch wire and lay it across both the main pad and the pad on the trace, in effect using the wire itself as the jumper.

What you said, it is like switching on a light bulb in the room.

Hey David, good to see ya! Been a while, hope all is well…

Yep WarHawk, just a big ol wall of light with no artifacts or nothin. The MT-G2 in my chopped AA minimag is pretty cool, doesn’t throw of course but man it’ll light up a room and looking for something in a confined space it’s really cool, you don’t have to point it. :slight_smile:

WarHawk, here’s the build thread on the Texas Poker, done by Photon Fanatic almost a year ago now. I’ve been wearing it around my neck on a Ti curb chain the entire year. :slight_smile: Started out with a mini fluPIC driver at around 650mA, switched it to the MattAus PICcolo at 800mA then found one that would do 1A. Now it’s running at a limited 1.42A for the Nichia 219B that’s in it. Really liking how it functions, 3 1/2 lumens in low is nice, and it comes on so neat and smooth. Perfect! :slight_smile:

In the last year, since I had this Ti light made, I’ve managed to build some pretty neat lights. I’ve got a few favorites, with the M8 up at the top of the list. But this little TP is special. Whole different category of course, so to finally be getting it’s output up in modern times, well, it’s nice.

With a big handful of BLF members directly influencing the making of this light and it’s components…Comfy, Rufusbduck, MattAus, PhotonFanatic, RMM, JonnyC, there’s been a lot of help from a lot of really great folks here and I Greatly Appreciate It!

or three…

This drivers pcb is thinner by almost half than the prototype PICcolo driver. So it sits inside the copper pill which worked out really nice, allowing me to solder the ground ring to the wall of the pill pretty easily. I used Rufusbducks sandwiching idea to pot the top side of the board with Arctic Alumina Thermal Adhesive and placed a disc of copper for the battery positive contact right on top of the small FET, pressing the AATA to a thin layer between them. With the power lead coming through the board, I simply stripped the insulation, twisted the wire, wrapped it around the copper disc and soldered it in place. Then sanded most of the solder off so the battery has as direct contact to the copper as possible. The AATA was white and shiny, til the flux made it ugly. Oh well. Not like it’s seen other than here. :stuck_out_tongue:

As you can see, in spite of Comfy’s efforts to make the Convoy S6 ultra small, the Texas Poker is tiny beside it. Sure do like seeing those .5mm threads all over the place! Especially in copper…. ahhhh :bigsmile:

Any interest in checking the button top on your efest10440 for a PTC or CID? You can see it in these 18650 pictures.

LOL ;) I didn't try to make the S6 ultra small, I just tried to get rid of the wasted space in the existing design. It's practically a baseball bat compared to others...

:slight_smile: I was making reference to the fact that the S6 I showed the TP next to wasn’t stock. Probably should have put a stock one next to it, or showed it next to the S2200. lol

I could’ve shown it next to a mini C8 and made it look big… it’s about the same size as the mini C8 and without looking close it would have looked full size.

Dbcstm, you can clean it up with rubbing alcohol and a toothbrush. B-12 works faster but is much more toxic. Neither seems to affect the solder mask or silkscreen.

I just built the second BLF Tiny10 FET. :bigsmile: It’s running 3.48A to an XM-L2 T6 3C. I’m either going to hook it up to a de-domed XP-G2 R5 1A or a domed XP-G2 R5 3C. Whatdya think?

Yup, all is well I just have been really busy with school and haven't really had the time to get on to BLF. Thanks for asking though.

so I’ve been filling in for you. :wink:

The little 3” Texas Poker is now doing 552 Out the Front lumens at start up, 452 at 30 seconds. Pulling ~3.02A from an Efest IMR10440. :slight_smile: De-domed XP-G2 R5 1A.

BLF Tiny10 FET with 22 ga Silicone wires. No limits in the firmware.

Nice! I did get access to some lab power supplies so I have been playing around with XM-Ls at sub-zero temperatures (peltier plates and dry ice); it got brighter all the way up to 9 amps. :smiley: Someday I’m gonna get set up to measure lumens and redo that experiment and see how many lumens I can hit with an XM-L.

(nice to see you still around every now and then) I would not mind a post about that with a picture of the set-up, nice tests! :-)

Once I'm set up to do it in a more scientific manner I will make a post about it.

That pushing those amounts of lumens has GOT to be getting hot really fast…but still…a complete sleeper

It’s got all the copper it can have and still be silver in color.