Most of the traces only carry signal currents and on the Tiny 10 the trace length to the led pads is practically nothing. Led + is straight through the board with no trace, led- is less than 1mm and gnd is a wide tab. Lately this subject has received more attention and an effort has been made on some of the new project boards to make sure of adequate trace width. If you think it’s necessary you could scrape the solder mask from the drain trace and when you solder the FET or 7135 it would flow to the - via. If it is an issue then that trace width could be increased but that driver wasn’t designed with 10A currents in mind. Wire size is a different matter due to increased length but at 2A awg24 will only drop .017V in 1/10 foot(1.2”).
Mine’s working fine and I’m loving it! 
Was just stating how impressive they are.
And yeah, keeping the battery size in line with the driver size there seems to be little to no issue of power handling. 3A with a fresh IMR10440 is ample, and of course that falls with the deteriorating charge level. On a positive note, the more the cell drains the slower it drains, right? lol
Seems to me that with the way mine’s running, Turbo should deliver around 15 minutes, High should make about 30 minutes, Med around an hour and Low around 10 hours. Give or take.
That being said, ain’t no way it’s gonna run 15 minutes on high! Something would melt…
Just letting you know that 22 is a bit of overkill but if it fits no harm done. You’d have to go almost 12A to drop .1V in that length of 24 gauge.
I agree completely. No sense trying to stuff huge wires in there when it's only a 1" run. This isn't a bad example of that but I've seen some pictures where people were trying to stuff 18AWG in a 1" run to an XM-L2, not necessary. Even 26AWG doesn't show any appreciable loss at 5A at that short of a run. On the SRK's I really like the 22AWG because there is plenty of room and because the wires have to be so stinking long, on normal lights with the short wires 24-26AWG is just fine, even for hard driven lights.
Somehow over the years here I overlooked those facts. It will make my projects come out a bit easier using more appropriate gauge wire. I learn a lot from your discussions here. Keep up the good work and thanks.
I have noticed a difference in wire. If I use the Teflon coated, silver plated wire, (with larger strands), versus the silicon coated plain copper wire, (with fine strands), I have to use a larger gauge of the fine strand wire, to equal the lack of resistance in the silver plated larger strand wire.
In other words, I have found 22ga silver plated large strand is much less resistant and I have to use 18ga silicon coated fine strand, to get the same amperage as 22ga silver plated.
I believe it's all about the wire diameter, as DC current travels through the wire, so larger strand allows for less resistance. Of course, the Solid 22ga will do about as well as any of them, since it's one large strand, versus many strands. Silver plating really does not seem to matter, since the current runs through the wire, not on the outside of the wire, like AC current does.
Being as how I have 22ga and 20ga silicone wire on hand, that’s what I used. If I’d known these things I might have used the smaller wires from previous Qlite’s.
Thanks for that info, really is nice to know.
I do have some 22ga Teflon wire as well, with the larger strands and silver plating, but it’s so dang stiff! Tuff stuff though, might keep that in mind…
The Teflon is tougher and has a thinner casing so if you need higher current and have longer wires but not much room it can be useful. I just find I have to be more careful to pot the driver to keep the pads or wires from shearing off. The flexible stuff is nice to use but thicker and easier to nick.
I have lots of parts & boards on the way, will be building the 15, 17, 20, & more of the SRK drivers. I'll post up a revised parts list for each one once I'm confident everything is right.
Also on the way are a few different big FETs, to see if that changes anything with the gate/pulldown resistors.
Just got in the 20DD w/o the resistors (not V2.0) do you think they will still work…or should I wait to order?
Gonna put together a SRK one…and build the 15DD w/ ground ring tonight, and probably a 3.04A 20mm TexasPyro as well
You'll have to try it and see, I built 3 of the SRK-DD boards and they all worked without the resistors, but the exact same parts on the 17DD (v1.0, missing GND ring) don't.
I would bend the gate pin on the FET up off the board before soldering, then try it first with just a short jumper wire between the leg & pin. If it works like that without a resistor, remove the jumper, bend the pin back down to the board and solder it. If it doesn't work, remove the jumper and put a 100-130 ohm resistor between the leg & pad (and add a high value resistor between the gate pad and ground, the pulldown resistor). If it works without the gate resistor it won't need the pulldown resistor either.
Hey Matt, what’s up with the 72 x 7135 board?
Matts retired. Everyone wore him out.
And you were the last straw.
I've been sort of shocked seeing 18 AWG in the big Fenix lights (TK61 and TK75) with the heavy insulation, making it look more like 16 AWG. The wires going from the contact board to the driver are that thick and less than 1" long. I suspect they have a good reason for that, since everything about the design of these lights is about weight reduction. So they seem to value heavy gauge wires over using an aluminum reflector instead of plastic, for example.
Did I break him? Bugger. I did send him a present this morning but now I have to send a get well card as well? This budget light hobby is certainly expensive. Have you seen the price of cards lately?
I'm alive lol. Just trying to focus on finishing renovating my bathroom so I can sh*t again. Nah just joking. I've been doing in my back yard*.
The 72x7135 board an OL request. Lips are sealed on what he wants to do with it! Note it will NOT fit an SRK. Way too big.
- Matt
* It's an en-suite so we've been using the main bathroom. It's just at the opposite end of the house to our bedroom. First world problems.
Now all of the enlightened forum knows where you take a dump, whew, we were so worried! Can you sign this piece of TP for me, pleaaaase!? 
Now, get back to work!
Speaking of dump, either y’all are rough on a house or y’all bought a dump cause you’ve been fixing on that place for 2 years!!!
(yk I’m just kidding right? Gotta personalize it…hey, look who you’re talking to, the guy that customizes EVERYTHING!)
I don’t know what you could use to dissolve fiberglass leaving behind the dielectric, copper and mask layers. Maybe instead of doing that a person could delaminate the board? As I understand it you could just add a ton of heat until the dielectric layer no longer wanted to be stuck to the fiberglass layer. The other layers might delaminate before the one you want though.
Either way…going to be a “destructive” method [and probably toxic/chemically as heck], getting that top layer masking and traces off the pcb then mounted to a copper slab is the end goal without destroying the integrity of the overlay…getting there is the tricky part…unless you pay a hogillion dollars to have someone MAKE them from the get go