nice project, looking forward to the builds!
I did an output test on a cyan LuxeonZ led here, I would not be surprised if the cyan rebel performes very similar.
Luxeon has recently even added a new colour to their already good range: lime (568nm).
Awesome! I look forward to the red beam shots.
Looking for an astronomy flashlight is how I discovered this hobby. Ironically I’ve not bought a single red light because they are all reflectors. My use is primarily for reading star charts without blowing my night vision so have been putting red emitters in zoomies. They all seem to come out a bit orange though… This emitter is new to me, thanks for the link.
Lower amps (less chips on the driver) would correct any brightness issues of reflectors I would think. I dont know what amps would be optimum, but less is going to give you a more friendly close range light. Or use a lower setting on a multi mode.
I think…
Thank you for the great info on night vision and red and cyan. Very interesting. Looking forward to seeing your lights.
I believe you are correct. For my application a zoomie in flood mode puts out a light of even brightness with no hotspot which is more comfortable for reading. Rollinstone157 is going to be after that hotspot though if he’s using the light for hunting.
Orange peel, or stippled reflector will kill any hotspot, and smooth it out nicely. As would an opaque lens.
Or a zoomie I guess. Could do the same with it too, lower the amps if needed. I dont like zoomies. No idea why.
I’ll post my beamshots here, in about an hour
Hmm, so I only have my point and shoot camera with me, which offers very limited control of settings. The Cyan shot, however, looks pretty neat.
Cyan:
That does look neat. I take it the camera is auto adjusting the brightness and thus hiding the spill?
You’re correct—I just don’t have access to my DSLR at the moment so of course I’m a little limited. But the light has wonderful spill, a very, very smooth beam indeed.
I am thinking that 3 x 7135s is enough for an led rated at 700 ma, even using a large host to take up the heat.
I am putting it in my UniqueFire UF-T20. Had to pry out the star, and melt out the driver. Need to file off 1 mm. from the deep red star. The driver fits fine.
What is the best way to deal with the heat the 7135s give off from the low forward voltage of the deep red led? I have used lifepo4 or 2 NiNH 18650s in other applications where lower voltage was helpful.
I used a 7135 based driver on a Oslon IR-led with very low Vf. I made some extra heatsinking for the 7135-chips and used a LiFePo battery, but the light also works ok with a normal Li-ion. It has become a bit long thread, sorry about that.
I have not yet managed that, but it is on my radar so to speak. I’m thinking I’ll buy some synthetic diamond powder and mix it with some silicone (maybe GE Silicone II) to use for potting.
I am pretty comfortable with this level of current (and subsequent heat) because the Rebels are on Al SinkPads. The heat transferring qualities are excellent on these, and I saw no detrimental effects to running the lights on high for an hour (other than a manageable level of heat)
But to be honest, I think the max drive currents on Rebels are extremely underrated (700mA-1A, depending on whether it’s an ES or regular Rebel). Both lights performed like champs when running on high for an hour, with no recognizable negative effects. I mean come on, the XP-G2’s maximum drive current is 1500mA, and it can do a little bit more than that 
I tested a few other modern Luxeons (Q and Z) for output, voltage and current, and they go way over specs. I expect the newest Rebels have the exact same die as the Luxeon Z and Q, so the behaviour would be similar.
I have already finished it with 7135 x 3. The lower forward voltage increases the heat generated in the 7135s, but I read they can even handle 2 x Li ion. The driver board won’t get hot because it was designed to handle 7135 x 8, and it is soldered to the brass pill. So I think I am quite safe about heat.
My red XP-E looks somewhat orange next to it, but when I took a picture the Luxeon looks pink. It is brighter than I expected.
My DX lens is weak around the edges, but the effect is a nice halo around the spot.
Does anyone know about the “Rebel Amber PC” emitter?
It was news a few years ago. Maybe I’m too late (grin).
I found this mentioned at: http://www.advancedaquarist.com/2014/4/lighting
” the spectrum of PC Amber is virtually the same as with Neutral-White, except for the lack of the blue spike.”
Thta’s what I want (a <a href=“”no blue light” sleep melatonin”\ - Google Search>no-blue emitter, for nighttime use).
They show the spectra in that page, with the above description
It’s for sale as a little square surface mount device, and I’d hope to find it on a star, or some help making one!
’oogle finds this UK supplier: http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/visible-leds/7393554/
Digi-Key says “Most lumens per package in PC amber color, typically 70 lumens at 350 mA.” and
has it here: http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/LXM2-PL01-0000/1416-1027-1-ND/3961132
Voltage - Forward (Vf) (Typ) 3.05V
Current - Max 700mA
Lumens @ Current - Max 123 lm ~ 193 lm
Voltage - Forward @ Max Current 3.6V
Phillips has specs for it on this PDF: http://www.philipslumileds.com/uploads/265/DS68-pdf
Am I right that the ‘usual’ drivers for white LEDs would be OK, since this doesn’t need the lower voltage used with ordinary red and amber LEDs?
And does a driver have to deliver no more than 700ma, given the “current - Max 700mA” spec?
(and where can I find the driver ….)
So you think I should increase the drive current to 3A? Great, I do too
We’ll have to wait and see about that, but maybe I’ll fill the rest of the spots on the board and see what happens. If I don’t like it, I can always drop it down. Not difficult at all.
One thing that I’ve found confusing about the Luxeon Z Line of LEDs is that the pad layout. On the Luxeon Rebel and Luxeon Rebel ES, the pad layout is identical. However, the pad Layout for the Luxeon Z and Luxeon Z ES is entirely different—the “standard” Z doesn’t have a dedicated thermal pad. Just something weird I noticed when browsing Mouser, Phillips, and SinkPad’s website.
Hank, That’s sort of what I’m discussing with DJozz! The simple stuff first: you can use any 7135-based driver you would like to power these LEDs—like this one.
Now for the maximum drive current…that’s what we’re pondering. My first build ran these both at 1.4A (4x 7135-based driver), and they hardly broke a sweat. I have pushed them up to 2.1A, and they feel like they have a lot more to give. DJozz’s studies of the Luxeon Q and Luxeon Z suggest that they can perform at 3-4x their rated current ceiling and be quite happy doing so with the proper thermal precautions.
I think it is safe to say the 700mA is EXTREMELY conservative though, and I wouldn’t hesitate to go above & beyond that number.
Thank you for letting me butt in here — I wanted to see if I understood and yes, this is what I need to learn.
Ah, and LuxeonStar has thermal adhesive pads to match. Until I’m confident enough for permanent glue.
Do you have any pictures of the red light and the assembly?
It’s not super-special, it’s just a standard M1 pill, I chose the M1 b/c it works with 20mm stars. If that’s not helpful, I’ll certainly take pictures…just not quite sure what you’re looking for!
