Oshpark Projects

I hate to say this but maybe size does really matter! :zipper_mouth_face:

Yes but remember back a ways what I found... bypassing the polarity protection diode makes the 17mm board work, without the gate/pulldown resistors. And it works flawlessly. But of course that screws up the voltage detection and it can't be reflashed unless the diode is un-bypassed. That still doesn't explain why the same diode, MCU, & FET work fine on the SRK board without the resistors. AARGH. |(

I’m still learning this whole PCB stuff, but if the board size is scaled down, wouldn’t it necessarily scale down the traces as well? Smaller traces, closer together, maybe it’s a induction or capacitive issue?

Maybe it’s an oddity of the SRK board that allows it to work rather than something about the smaller ones that is a flaw. There were simply too many posts by more knowledgeable members saying the resistors should be there. Trace length, board capacitance, signal bounce, whatever. It might need analysis with an o-scope to figure out done by someone that understands this stuff and may not be worth the trouble for us plain clothes nerds. As you like to say Comfychair “It works” either way and with the boards developed with either case in mind, just use the resistors if needed. Besides, a few months usage is not really enough time to pick up on all the nuances possible so something could easily turn up yet.

See? This is why I’m leery of opening up the Texas Poker and engaging star 2 for moon mode. Everything is working perfectly as of now, but who knows what will happen if I try that? Don’t want to mess it up…

Oh, I think GJ asked about the stars…they’re on the inside close to the MCU.

For future reference the BLF Tiny10 is set up with through holes for both led + and - so either side can face the emitter. Not all hosts use the end of the battery tube for grounding the driver but it would still be possible to have the stars accessible even if they did.

Why, I do not know. That would have made some things easier. With this light being a twisty I had to seal the board with Arctic Alumina and use a small button of copper for the battery contact, while I actually covered the electronics in full potting I wouldn’t have HAD to, with the mcu towards the battery I could have potted the mcu and still left the star’s clear for options. Never occurred to me.

I just place a small metal positive contact on top of the attiny. All pins still accessible.
10mm but its not a “tiny10”. Diode on top with attiny.

Hey comfy…I got off my duff

Family portrait

SKR FET

20DD

17DD

15DD

Are we supposed to jumper across R3?

Testing to come soon…just have to flash the ATtiny w/ STAR firmware and test it out

once again sorry for the ultra crappy photos

I think I got the wrong diodes, the leads go out away from the body instead of curve underneath so it made it a bit difficult to get them to go where they should go…will definitely use your buy list next time
Went thru 8 ATtinys and support hardware, 6 of the larger FETS and 2 of the smaller ones…have 2 ATtiny’s left but saving one for the 7135 SRK FET (got to order the new boards) and for another TexasPyro 20mm Nanjg (going to use 380mA 7135’s)

All in all, using the hotair rework station and manually dabbing the pads with solder paste…

I will also work on getting better photos…those are absolutely HORRIBLE!

Send me those and I’ll take some pics for you. :wink:

Yes, R3 is an optional limiting resistor (it's inline between LED- and the FET's drain).

That's the correct leg config on the diode, SOD-323.

http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/ZLLS410TA/ZLLS410CT-ND/1767188

Hello guys, I wanted to try the Tiny12,

What size are the smd components?

0805? 1206?

thank you!

The tiny12 is exact the Tiny10, but with a wider outer ring. The components are the components from a NANJG105C driver, the cheapest way to get them is just scavenge a 105C. I have used the Tiny12 like that and it works fine.

I'm doing a fairly substantial order from Mouser, with 2 other users cpf_it and I thought to take a bit of stuff ..;)

I'll do that for you tiny12!

thanks

Components were set for 0805

All you need to populate the ATtiny and controlling hardware

This list

http://www.digikey.com/short/hqzd0 from Digikey compiled by Comfychair

You need the ATtiny, a 19.1K resistor, a 4.7K resistor, the diode, and the 10UF capacitor

Looking at the list…that is EXACTLY what you need…1 for every board…then a way to flash the firmware to the ATtiny (which is easier and cheaper than one might think) go to OP for complete list…the Tiny10 or 12 uses the 7135 chips though

For a complete setup of 10
Subtotal $18.16

edit to correct resistor value

Awesome! I was just wondering about how much it would cost to source the components vs stripping drivers. I can get drivers cheaper it seems. Also there’s no link to this digicart in the OP. There are similar ones for the larger FET drivers but none for the AMC drivers.

Its 4.7 kΩ

Thanks Helios, I was all over that! 4.7 is quite different than 47.1! Works versus doesn’t work.

I find that the price of new components is well worth the effort as compared to stripping an existing driver. I’m not so good at taking those tiny resistors off a board without damaging them. To have a “tape” with 100 standing by, so much easier!

The price breaks start to lean towards buying individual components after you get up around 10 pieces. Fewer than that it's cheaper to use a donor driver for the parts.

Hey guys just checkin in, I have sets of BLF15DD’s and BFL17DD’s on the way. I got the 15’s to hopefully revive an old broken original 47’s quark (literally the original version). The 17mm is going in my HD2010.

Thanks to everyone that’s worked on these. I may be able to solder the SMD’s but I could never design them.